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What is it?
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What is it?
I have a 1986 Ranger 2.9L twin fuel tanks. It just stopped running like it was running out of gas, problem,both tanks
were just filled. I have been doing research and discovered that
there is a valve in the fuel line to switch tanks, what is that valve called, I find no mention in the repair manual. I do know the sound it makes when switching, it does not do that any more. If you know what this called I would be greatful.
DSSRanger
were just filled. I have been doing research and discovered that
there is a valve in the fuel line to switch tanks, what is that valve called, I find no mention in the repair manual. I do know the sound it makes when switching, it does not do that any more. If you know what this called I would be greatful.
DSSRanger
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 1,048
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From: Lacey, WA
Hi,
I do not know the name of the switch but can guess it as Fuel tank selector switch or Fuel transfer switch.
Have you checked the fuse box for a blown fuse? If you don't hear the sound of it changing anymore then it sounds like it's not getting power.
Good luck,
I do not know the name of the switch but can guess it as Fuel tank selector switch or Fuel transfer switch.
Have you checked the fuse box for a blown fuse? If you don't hear the sound of it changing anymore then it sounds like it's not getting power.
Good luck,
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 1,048
Likes: 22
From: Lacey, WA
Oops,
I forgot to mention. Are you sure it's not the fuel pump?
You say that both tanks are full and it won't crank. For the tank selector switch to have failed and cause this problem it would have had to have failed while switching tanks and be stuck between tank ports.
Normally you can hear an electric fuel pump "buzz" when you turn the key on but not crank it. Does this sound familiar?
Good luck,
I forgot to mention. Are you sure it's not the fuel pump?
You say that both tanks are full and it won't crank. For the tank selector switch to have failed and cause this problem it would have had to have failed while switching tanks and be stuck between tank ports.
Normally you can hear an electric fuel pump "buzz" when you turn the key on but not crank it. Does this sound familiar?
Good luck,
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Buzzing..
Thanks for the reply, Yes I checked the Fuel pump it is buzzing. That was my thinkin also on the fuel tank valve, it should stay open to the tank it was on, since there is no close position on it. I talked with a Ford mechanic, he thought it could be the EEC relay.
Since it costs $15. I will try that, the valve is $170.
Since it costs $15. I will try that, the valve is $170.
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From: IOWA
You can check to see if there is fuel pressure by depressing the schraeder valve on the fuel rail.
My guess (only a guess):
Focus in on the Ignition Control Module mounted on/near the distributor. When those things go, they give no warning and they commonly fail. Just remove it and take it to the auto parts shop- they should have a diagnostic machine to tell you if it is bad or not. Likely you'll need a thin walled socket to remove it- the parts places sell a special tool for about $3-4.
Good luck.
My guess (only a guess):
Focus in on the Ignition Control Module mounted on/near the distributor. When those things go, they give no warning and they commonly fail. Just remove it and take it to the auto parts shop- they should have a diagnostic machine to tell you if it is bad or not. Likely you'll need a thin walled socket to remove it- the parts places sell a special tool for about $3-4.
Good luck.
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Focusing on switch
Thanks for the tip, I will see if a shop here, in Central Cal. can do that. I checked the aux fuel switch, there is no voltage at the connector. I do not know if the voltage travels from the switch to the valve or it is a complete circuit and if the valve shorted it would short the switch connector. What I find crazy I cannot local any circuit protection. I need to find a wiring diagram that includes this switch. I could jump 12-volts to the switch and tap the selector positions. But there are a total of 6; two and are red. I am thinking of trying to repipe or go around this valve. But there are special fuel connectors involved. I will have to research this, thanks for the help though.
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From: IOWA
You can go to this site to try an d find wiring diagrams.
Please be careful if I understand what you are thinking of doing. There is a inertia fuel cutoff switch that will stop power to the fuel pumps in case of an accident. If you bypass that and you get in a serious accident (God forbid), you are messing with danger.
Double check that inertia switch and make sure it did not throw itself. I had that happen once after I went over a very rough angled roadside. Also, follow your fuel pump power lines- there is possibly an in-line fuse like my '88 Ranger. One time I had that connector separate after a rough ride as well.
Please be careful if I understand what you are thinking of doing. There is a inertia fuel cutoff switch that will stop power to the fuel pumps in case of an accident. If you bypass that and you get in a serious accident (God forbid), you are messing with danger.
Double check that inertia switch and make sure it did not throw itself. I had that happen once after I went over a very rough angled roadside. Also, follow your fuel pump power lines- there is possibly an in-line fuse like my '88 Ranger. One time I had that connector separate after a rough ride as well.
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Thanks for the tip.
I wanted to jump power to the tank selector switch on the dash
it is no longer making the "little" click. I checked to connector there is no power. But maybe a should disconnect the Inertia switch, jump a wire in the socket and see if power is present at the selector switch then I could repace the Inertia switch. I will also check the links you sent, I cannot find any thing anywhere on how this fuel valve is wired or placed. The fuel pump comes on when the key is turned on. I had the alternator go out,maybe the low voltage did something to the inertia switch. Running out of ideas here. Some of these parts are obsolete according to my Ford dealer.
Thanks Again!!
it is no longer making the "little" click. I checked to connector there is no power. But maybe a should disconnect the Inertia switch, jump a wire in the socket and see if power is present at the selector switch then I could repace the Inertia switch. I will also check the links you sent, I cannot find any thing anywhere on how this fuel valve is wired or placed. The fuel pump comes on when the key is turned on. I had the alternator go out,maybe the low voltage did something to the inertia switch. Running out of ideas here. Some of these parts are obsolete according to my Ford dealer.
Thanks Again!!
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From: IOWA
The fuel pump comes on with the key? Why are we chasing the fuel pump? Does it have pressure at the fuel rail?
Fuel-Air-Spark. Check for spark at the plugs- I still have a gut feeling that it is the Ignition Control Module. Cheap and easy to replace. I'll say it again- pull it, take it to a parts shop for diag., hope that's it, buy a new one, put it on, and drive away happy.
Fuel-Air-Spark. Check for spark at the plugs- I still have a gut feeling that it is the Ignition Control Module. Cheap and easy to replace. I'll say it again- pull it, take it to a parts shop for diag., hope that's it, buy a new one, put it on, and drive away happy.
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Inertia switch
I am going to take the module in as a last resort. I want to have it checked out. I checked the inertia switch, there is no power at it and the Tan/Blck wire is burned on the connector. There is power with the ingnition on at the fuel pump relay. I am going to replace the relay and the Inertia switch and see if power is obtained. I hate spending $$ that maynot be necessary. But this looks suspicious.
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Test Module
I do not have email previledges yet so I will have to just put this in the public. Where do you have these tested? I see you are in Iowa. I have checked here locally, Calif. Kragens/Schuck's/Checker
and the local Ford dealer. They do not test. For not with a walk-in.
If vehicle was in there service. There are Pep Boys here other than that, I would have to call around.
Thanks!
and the local Ford dealer. They do not test. For not with a walk-in.
If vehicle was in there service. There are Pep Boys here other than that, I would have to call around.
Thanks!
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From: IOWA
I take my stuff to Advance Auto Parts- they are a midwest/east coast thing.
I used to live in CA and Pep Boys did stuff like that. Since they are pretty big, I would think they would invest in the technology.
Call around to see if someone has a diagnostic machine to test an ignition control module.
I used to live in CA and Pep Boys did stuff like that. Since they are pretty big, I would think they would invest in the technology.
Call around to see if someone has a diagnostic machine to test an ignition control module.
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Special Thanks!!
I would like to thank all of you who gave advice. A special Thank You to Bill though; It was the the module. I replaced it, turned it over with no problem. Now all I have to do is put thedash panels and kick panels back
Thanks again!!