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I have a holly 4 barrel 4150 I want to install on my truck. It has a 360. I've acquired an adapter plate to mount the 4 barrel to my 2 barrel intake. I was wondering if you guys could help me figure out what else I need to attach the throttle linkage and what not. The carb came off my el camino and was actuated by a cable previously.
You should replace the intake manifold if you want the full power of the carb swap.
You will most likely need to do something with the gas line to get it ti hook up.
The throttle should fit to 1 of the holes on the carb and you use the same clip to hold it in place.
Not seeing what you have, carb & rod, that is all I can say.
Dave ----
Thanks, I'll figure out the fuel line but was wondering if the 4150 is set up for the throttle linkage rod already or if I needed an adapter. And yah I'd love to get a better manifold but don't have the cash for one. I'm just throwing this 4 barrel on cause I already have it sitting there and the adapter plate was only 20 bux.
I have never seen an adapter for the throttle only for the auto kick down rod or cable.
Mount the carb and then put the throttle rod up to the side of the carb to see if it hits 1 of the holes on the throttle arm.
The only thing that might need adjusting is how long the rod will need to be.
Dave ----
A pic of that carb on the truck might help. I think the 4160 is pretty much the same as the 4150, physically. This is the only pic I can find of my 4160 on a 390fe in my 70 f250. If your truck has ac6 tranny, you will probably need an adapter for the kickdown. I ended up making a new throttle linkage because the old bell crank was worn out.
Did you know the 4150 is more of a performance carb, where the 4160 is a more streetable carb. I agree, change the manifold. Which will only be the start of what comes next to keep up with a bigger carb.
I want to say he wants to go from the v2 in the picture to the Holley v4 using the v2 intake manifold with an adapter.
If that is the case then that rod from the pivot to the carb just needs to go to the new carb. in a hole that will work.
It should not be all that hard but a bushing may be needed on the carb side.
You may also need to make up a new rod that you can adjust longer or shorter.
Dave ----
Yah I can't seem to get to wot on the 2 barrel or the 4 barrel and would deff need to make a new rod. But there's a lot of slop in the pivot and it binds up a lot.
sometimes the throttle doesn't return and sticks open and i can't seem to get full pedal travel with either carb with these rods.
Well here's what I ended up doing for anyone else interested. Autozone and oreily had some specter / edlebrock universal throttle cable kits and I ended up using a combination that worked.
With this set up I just omitted the use of rods all together and now have a very short throttle cable. The kit included a cable adapter for "aftermarket pedals" which fits the throttle pedal rod pretty decent. Unfortunately you don't end up mounting the back of the braided sheath to the firewall like you are supposed to because the connection happens in the engine bay but so far the sheath seems to be holding fine with only 1 connection point.
Part of the problem with that old rod set up was if a motor mount broke the throttle could stick open.
The other issue is play in the linkage like I think you have.
The throttle had to go wide open when new so I would look at maybe adding bushings to the linkage to take the play out as a start.
Then you can look into why you cant get WOT
Dave ----
My cable system seems to work pretty good and easier to maintain than rods so I'm just gonna run that weather it's 2 barrel or 4 going forward.
Just trying to get the carb tuned now it wants to idle at 1500 rpm in park to stay lit, any less and it dies out. Amd shifting into gear with the idle at 1500 it will die also.
As previous poster stated : 4150 is a mechanical secondary , which is harder to tune & not fuel efficient . 4160 is vacuum secondary & more efficient for a normal truck .
If you have a STOCK engine I suggest a VERY small vacuum 4 barrel
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