Perfection is a pipe dream. Compromise is better to sleep at night. Get it to idle at 550-800 and the prize is within reach. These motors are over the place on what each one needs to make them reliable. Good luck on getting her going.

 

Since I'm late to the party I'm glad Kenny stated the first thing that came to my mind.
You have a Holley 2300, which one? There is a 350 CFM and a 500. What is the "list" number on the air horn? 7448 is a 350 and 4412 is a 500. The 500 will be jetted too rich from the factory for a 302.
1/2" travel? Once you get the idle squared away, test drive to see if it bogs. If it does, adjust the travel accordingly.
And RTT, sometimes we need to take a breath and slow down. Get our heads on straight and go back at it. We all want you to stay with us on this world.

 

THAK-YOU GUYS.........
After several calls to Holley tech , they will sort it out because I have had a problem with the spring associated with the pump cam from the beginning. Also the transfer slots look to be different sizes
So they should receive it Tuesday
It is a 0-7448 350 cfm.
My throttle linkage is probably one of my problems . I think I can keep my original trapezoidal looking linkage because I like the look & originality
I removed it to fix the unique connectors & clean it . I may not have replaced it exactly right. It works and lines up perfectly if I tweak it a little better

 

Did you re-use the factory trapezoidal unit to carb rod or fab an adjustable one? That rod length may be your problem.

 

Yes. I discovered a new bolt I added to the trapezoidal was too long & stopping the throttle rod slightly from returning completely . At least that is my last diagnosis . Holley has my carb looking at the spring around the pump cam & transfer slots , and one throttle blade............ & will flow test it ........etc........etc...
Oddly I luv the look & engineering of the trapezeee' looking apparatus operating my carb plus its originality.......

 

Ok , Carb back from Bowling Green !!!
Right off I changed the accelerator pump nozzle from a 31 to a 28 , & to a short tube nozzle ! I did this because truck may have been running too rich . I changed plugs while waiting on carb . Installed Autolite BF42 copper plugs ,set to .035 or so gap because I have a high voltage distributor & coil .
Today I started truck & it it runs rough , like it is missing , & a slight backfire at times . I turned idle mixture screws to 1-1/2 turns out , & readjusted my manual choke . Now it runs some better but still rough . My choke blade does not want to adjust exactly , it does not want to open all the way . I have adjusted it 4 or 5 times . It lacks about an 1/8" opening all the way . I readjusted it again & it may be fixed now but do not know . I also fixed the accelerator linkage so it appears to open & close to the max. I ran engine to 185* & thermostat opened , which is good because before it would run hot if idled for 5 minutes or so , did not seem to want to run hot now !!! oil pressure slightly low but it needs to be changed because it probably has gas it it & too much Marvel Mystery oil !!!
NOW I am gonna try to adjust the idle , then the timing ,which I have not ever done with a timing light !!!
I plan to set initial timing at 6 degrees BTC at 750 - 800 rpm curb idle , or fast idle 1000rpm +/_ 100.
My dilemma is do I want 5 degrees timing at 1000rpms or 3 degrees timing at 1500rpms , or 3 degrees at 2000 rpms ??? Let me know what you suggest !!! Any NASCAR engine guys in the house ???????? ha , This is a test sorta........
Wish me luck ..............oh me...............lol.............

 

Get motor up to temp before making any adjustments.
Timing is set at idle and vacuum to dist. removed and plugged.
If idle spec is 550 in gear then set it to 550 in gear. I dont know what your spec is so look it up.
I would also set the timing to 10* BTDC forget the factory spec of what 6* you are going to set it to, unless you get pinging.

With the timing set recheck idle speed and adjust as needed and recheck timing just in case.
Now adjust the carb mixing screws. Turn each one out a little at a time to keep them even and to get the best high RPM idle.
Then turn them in just a little at a time till the idle drops and then back them out just a tad and they are set.
Recheck idle speed and adjust if needed.

Now just like the HIGH speed jets have NOTHING to do about rich at idle the Nozzle change from 31 to 28 HAS NOTHING to do with running rich at idle also
The nozzle is 1 part of the accel pump turning, the colored ramps and the 2 screw settings is the other.
If you have a stumble when pulling away from a stop that would be the accel pump tuning.
If you do have the stumble put the 31 back in. I do like the tube type over the non-tube type as I feel they spray better but thats me.

Once you get that far if you get surging at steady throttle you will need to get a vacuum reading at the throttle.
Once you have that vacuum reading you will need to get a power valve of that level and check the power valve in the carb.
They say as a start for the PV it is half of what the vacuum reading is at idle but do need to be adjusted at times.
Dave ----

edit you may want to get a book on Holley carbs so you under stand how they work and tune them.

 

Well , I forgot to disconnect the dist. vac line & plug it . also did not let engine/motor reach full operating temp .
I did all this before I read the previous post
I did mark the 6 degree btc , & set advance lite to 32 and could not see where exactly my mark was during testing
Now I think I should have set 6 degrees first & then set 32 degrees !
Seems a little odd you suggest using factory idle & not factory timing .
Which actually I plan to do the opposite , use factory timing & not factory idle
It got dark on me & will continue tomorrow .
I know pump nozzle does not affect idle richness but it can right after you hit the throttle .
No one has answered my dilemma in my previous post
I should be better prepared mañana I know I made several mistakes & will start correcting them NOW........
Thank- You 4 your support........

 

About bumping timing to 10* BTDC (from the factory 6* BTDC) and keeping the idle at factory spec here is my take.

Timing was set to meet smog spec not for power.
We all want more power so you bump it up some.
10* BTDC is a safe point 90% of the time. If you get pinging or hot kick back start at 10* then back it down some.
But the more advance you can have with out pinging or hot kick back start the better.

You timing light I take it is a dial back type, has a dial on the back with numbers on it.
You mark the motor & crank at the 0* / TDC You marked the 6* BTDC remove that if you have a dial back light.
With the motor up to temp, dist. vacuum disconnected and plugged use the light and turn the **** so the marks line up to TDC / 0*
Now look at the **** on the light. If you did not move the dist. and it was set to 6* BTDC the **** should be pointing to 6.

Now advance the dist.and do the light & **** thing till the **** points to 10* BTDC and tighten the dist. and check 1 last time to make sure it did not move.
Now to see if the mechanical works bring the RPM up to say 2000 and check the timing the **** should point to a higher number.
Now bring the RPM up to 3000 and check the timing did the timing change or stay the same? Make note of the timing at both 2000 & 3000 RPM.
Now hook the vacuum up the do the 2000 / 3000 RPM timing and note what happens.

That is how you check timing with a dial back light.
BTW you may need to adjust the idle speed if you changed the timing as it may speed up when advanced.

On the idle if you set it higher than factory you can have some issues.
1- you may be out of the idle part of the carb and in the high speed part of the carb and the idle mix screws will not work well or do anything.
2- When you check timing the mechanical may be starting to advance if the springs are weak, and you cant set it right.
3- If you have a auto transmission, with the higher idle RPM and in stop & go traffic the converter now needs to slip more and this slipping builds heat and we all know heat kills auto transmissions.
4- you may get run on or dieseling when you shut the motor off.
So as you can see higher idle from spec is not really a good thing.

Then again it is your truck to do as you wish but what I posted above and higher up is how I do my adjustments and I have had no issues both on the street and different types or racing.
Dave ----

 

I want to post to this NOW so I can hopefully get a faster reply because I am slowly reading FuzzFace2's amazing post !
I have my Pertronix single vac. advance covered with tape & the ported vac. line to carb plugged with a golf tee .
Truck is idle is smoothly fluctuating between 500rpms to 1000rpms & occasional dipping to 100rpms . I now think it may be because I have the distributor advance taped closed .
I have an advance timing light (dial back ) not inductive .
I marked the 6* degree atc on balancer .
I did read that 10* is the best timing for a Mustang/302W so I will take FuzzFace2's advice after I completely read his impressive post several times..........slowly..........but is hard for me to slow down , plus I am watching the Darlington Race & rooting for Kyle Larson 2 win !!!!!!!
Oh at start up I would hear a faint scraping sound intermittently . It slowly is going away as engine warms . The noise seems to be around the fuel pump which I tightened the screws holding it to the block last night because it was leaking slightly. Wonder if this is related to the scraping sound ??? Also it seems engine is running much cooler than before I sent my carb to the carb hospital in Bowling Green .

 

I am not sure if I set timing before or after tdc/tc ????????? It was to the drivers side 6* degree mark !!!

 

OK , A little more detail explanation of want I posted earlier about what I did trying to set my timing . I marked the 6* before tc . I put dial on 6* . When Light was on I could not get the mark to line up with the indicator . I also could not read any of the marks on the balancer ! Mark looked to be about 15 degrees -10 degrees before 0*/TC degrees at the indicator . I turned the distributor until it would not turn anymore to try to get the mark to line up with the indicator . This may be after I tried to set it to 32* , which was wrong thing to do because I am got confused/wrong .......oh me.............ha
Now after some more thought & wisdom from FuzzFace2 . I will do a fresh start tomorrow & hopefully get it ALMOST RIGHT ha...........
Anyone know what the slight scraping sound could be . That noise worries me............

 

Ok a motor dose not know if it is in a car, a truck, a boat or wood chipper.
As a rule what works for a motor works for all motors be it Ford, GM, Toayota, etc. be it a 4cly, 6 straight or v, or v8 and if lucky v10.
So the 10* BTDC for Mustang holds true for all motors in anything.

Ok forget about the 6* mark you made.
If you can remove it and clean up the numbers so you can see them.
Find the 0* or TDC mark and mark them like you did with the 6* one. This is what you will use from here on out.
Also forget about the 32* number you keep posting about we dont need that right now.
We only care about setting the timing to 10* BTDC at idle spec with no vacuum hooked to the dist..
You do not need to plug off the dist. nipple only the vacuum supply side to the dist. with your golf tee

Now get the motor up to temp, make sure the idle speed is set to factory.
Timing light hooked to #1 plug.When looking at the numbers and the mark you made at TDC / 0 turn the **** on the light to line up the marks to TDC.
If you had the timing set for 6* BTDC before the **** should point to 6. with the marks you made at TDC.
If this is so the timing is set at 6* BTDC. We would like to see 10* BTDC.

To advance the timing and the dist. just a little loose, we dont want it to loose or it will move with the motor running.
Pull on vacuum can on the dist. this should advance the timing. Pushing retards timing.
You only have to move it a little to go from 6 to 10*. Using the light line the marks back up to 0 / TDC and see where the **** points to it should be at 10* BTDC. If it is a little more, say 12* BTDC, that is ok as we will test it there.

Dont hook the vacuum up just yet we have some checking to do.
Is the idle still at factory spec.? If not adjust it so it is and recheck timing to make sure it is still at the last place you checked it.
This next part having a helper is nice but can be done with out one.
Bring the RPM up to say 2000 and check the timing. You will need to adjust the **** to line the marks back up to TDC / 0 and note the timing.
I dont know what this timing will be but should not be what you set it to at idle RPM.
Now bring the RPM up to 2500 and check timing did it move or the same? If it was the same then you can say the mechanical advance is "all in by" 2000 RPM

At this point you had a timing reading at idle of say 10* to 12* and mechanical timing advance of ?? at 2000 / 2500 RPM.
Now we want to hook up the vacuum to the dist. and bring the RPM up to where ever the timing was "all in by".
If that was at 2000 RPM bring it up to 2000 RPM and check timing by adjusting the **** so the marks are lined up at TDC / 0 and note the number on the ****. This maybe up in the 32* to 36* BTDC and that is ok we just want to know that all parts of the dist. timing are working.

If you dont see a timing change from idle set point to 2000 / 2500 RPM then there is something wrong with mechanical advance and needs to be fixed.
Same if timing dose not change with vacuum hooked up vacuum advance needs to be fixed.

Again everything is going to go off the TDC marks on the motor nothing else and the numbers on the timing light is what the timing is at for a given test.
Dave ----

 

Anyone know what the scraping sound may be ??????? I am afraid it is a bearing !!!

 

On my way to try FuzzFace2's gracious advice !!! Wish me luck...............oh me..........ha.......