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Chances are low it's the problem then, but not impossible, check the float level just for grins. . that's a lot of carb for a 302.
First thing is to find out what fluid is drowning it out, hard to proceed until you're sure..
Correction it’s a 600 but still might be a little big. Float level is right in the middle as it has the sight glasses on the bowls. Fuel sits right in the center of the sight glass
Not to say it's "the way" ... but it has been "my way" since I had to redo a head install in a '69 Dart 340. Of 8 cylinders, 4 have 4 head bolts around them, 4 have 5 head bolts around them. With good compression, 340s used in anger will sometimes blow a gasket on the valley side of one of the 4 that are missing the 5th bolt. It was in the '70s, when getting my second set of gaskets, parts guy at the dealership told me to clean the gaskets, clean the head and block, then to paint the head gaskets on both sides with a few coats of Rubbermaid High Heat Aluminum Engine Enamel ... then to let dry ... then put it all together. They stocked that paint just for that use. I have done that to this day, never a head gasket leak since. I have used other brands as I can't get Rubbermaid anylonger, but always High Heat Aluminum Engine Enamel on any of my head gasket installs. I've gone back and pulled heads for other issues, like burnt valve, etc .... and have needed extra leverage (pipe) to pop them loose. It's the high heat enamel with the powdered aluminum that I understand is the key. I've even done it on air cooled motorcycles with steel shim gaskets ... and I've done it on copper head gaskets.
Originally Posted by Weatherwalk
Correction it’s a 600 but still might be a little big. Float level is right in the middle as it has the sight glasses on the bowls. Fuel sits right in the center of the sight glass
Before sight glasses existed, we set the fuel level where it just started to dribble, then backed off a hair to where it stopped dribbling .... or just left it at dribble level. Don't know that center of sight glass is too high, but it'd be higher.
Not to say it's "the way" ... but it has been "my way" since I had to redo a head install in a '69 Dart 340. Of 8 cylinders, 4 have 4 head bolts around them, 4 have 5 head bolts around them. With good compression, 340s used in anger will sometimes blow a gasket on the valley side of one of the 4 that are missing the 5th bolt. It was in the '70s, when getting my second set of gaskets, parts guy at the dealership told me to clean the gaskets, clean the head and block, then to paint the head gaskets on both sides with a few coats of Rubbermaid High Heat Aluminum Engine Enamel ... then to let dry ... then put it all together. They stocked that paint just for that use. I have done that to this day, never a head gasket leak since. I have used other brands as I can't get Rubbermaid anylonger, but always High Heat Aluminum Engine Enamel on any of my head gasket installs. I've gone back and pulled heads for other issues, like burnt valve, etc .... and have needed extra leverage (pipe) to pop them loose. It's the high heat enamel with the powdered aluminum that I understand is the key. I've even done it on air cooled motorcycles with steel shim gaskets ... and I've done it on copper head gaskets.Before sight glasses existed, we set the fuel level where it just started to dribble, then backed off a hair to where it stopped dribbling .... or just left it at dribble level. Don't know that center of sight glass is too high, but it'd be higher.
If it ends up being the head gasket I’ll have to give that trick a try, thanks! And are you saying I should lower the float level till I can just see in at the bottom of the sight glass? I don’t have tons of experience when it comes to carb adjustments so I’ll take any advice I can get
I have lost count of how many engines and I have never had a head gasket issue, so I'm skeptical on tha=, but of course it's possible. but is it water?
Typically if it's in the sight glass it's ok, but ideally it should be right at the bottom as if it were just the standard plug. be careful with the sight plugs unless they've improved them ethanol will eat them up.
I have a 78 with a 302 that was freshly rebuilt. I just finished the cam break in a few days ago and I’ve now noticed a pretty bad miss and some white smoke out of the exhaust. I checked the plugs and all were fine except for cylinders 3 and 4. The plug on 3 was fouled and the plug on 4 was wet. Swapping the plugs did not change anything. I removed the valve cover and started the engine and could visibly see the valves opening and closing. The rockers are still tight as well. What should my next steps be?
The white smoke and bad miss were just clues leading me to think head gasket. You might post a pic of the plugs. The taste test described was not a bad idea, but do not swallow it, just taste it on your finger to lip. Anti freeze has a sweetness. A compression test will help ... before pulling any head. If it is a leaking head gasket, my guess is between #3 and #4. I think you'll find compression testers complete with instructions ... offered for loan at most auto parts stores.
No, I'm not saying the float level is too high ... but it is higher than we ever used those windows for, I just never had or used "sight glasses" that really are some plastic stuff. Higher float levels will slightly enrichen mixtures as the fuel is closer to being pulled over by the vacuum created in the carburetor throat as air is pulled through.
If you think it's gas it has to be the carb there's no other possibility. it only takes 10 minutes to swap a carb try to find someone into cars they should be like me I bet I have 10 setting around.
What do the plugs on the other side look like ? if your oil is still clean I'd pull the fouled plug and start it up, see what's coming out and how much.
Update!
Today I got a compression checker and all the cylinders were within plus or minus 5 of 150 psi. I decided to jump under the truck just to see what I could see and noticed the passenger side of the oil pan was covered in carbon. I looked at the header collector flange and there was a bolt missing. I guess I snugged them up and never tightened them down and the vibrations from break in worked one of them loose. Would that big of an exhaust leak be causing my problems?
The exhaust manifold leak could induce air into the air stream causing the O2 to read a lean burn and forcing a rich condition (adding fuel). What are the fuel trims looking like ??
The wet cylinder should be investigated, a chemical sniffer on the coolant system will detect combustion gasses if there is a leaking HG..
On a old non computerized engine like this an exhaust leak will make no difference at all.
it has to be either gas or water fouling your plugs. if you don't detect any smell or taste of antifreeze but a lot of gas it's gas. pull a wet one and touch a match to it, gas burns.
If compression is good, the most obvious cause could be as simple as a bad plug or plug wire causing the cylinder (s) in question to miss-fire.
Put new plugs in it, check to ensure that you are getting good spark to the cylinders that were wet/covered in carbon and run it. If it has compression and spark, it should run.
I tend to agree with Westcoast, if your compression is good, I would suspect a plug or wire, I got 2 of these a while back and wish I would've gotten them years ago, I have had numerous OOB failed plug wires, this finds them way easier and quicker without getting zapped trying to do it.
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