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So, I took my truck to an ac shop to have them tell me what’s wrong. They put it under a vacuum, shot dye in it and put whatever I said I touched new o rings on it. He had soapy water but he never used it. So now my question is they told me not to use the cans cause it won’t tell me how many oz is in it. I can’t pay them $300 to charge it. They wanted to fill it with 2lbs according to the r12 sticker which it’s been quick converted. And $85 a pound. Which is a lot I told them I’d get cans. Which is when they told me not to use cans. What should I do? $300 is a lot for them to not be able to tell me it won’t leak. So I figure it’s better to use the cans. 36-38oz is what I was told to fill it with in the other thread. So 3 12oz cans or 2 18oz cans will fill it to 36oz. But how do I know those cans have what they say they do in them and all of it came out?
Another shop said that they think they can do it for $140.
Filling A/C system is kind of tricky, if you don't know what you are doing. If your original system was R-12, and you converted to R-134 with a kit that just replaced the nipples, you could experience leakage. However on all my R-134 systems, I have used the cans that come with the pressure gauge on them, follow instructions, and have had good success. On a 1988 system though, you have to assume some parts, o-rings, etc., will probably be worn out. And those are issues you will need to deal with. I would suggest researching to completely replace the R-12 system to R-134. A good replacement is not just putting R-134 nipples on and putting a few cans in it. R-12, and R-134 are different size molecules, so leakage may occur. And while the system may work great for a week, it will degrade over time.
I can’t afford to replace the whole system right now so I was trying to get this one fixed. https://www.walmart.com/ip/EZ-Chill-...ctedSellerId=0
these are expensive is there a way to connect a can without manifold gauges to the system without buying these $30 cans with a hose?
Not really. If you are trying to do it cheaply, this is your best option. Also the gauge is important. To much or to little refrigerant will not work well.
I know someone with manifold gauges so I’ll borrow those, and get the 3 12oz cans or 2 12oz and 1 14oz can. But just to double check the spec is 36-38oz when filled with 134a on 88 f150 302 with factory ac?
"They wanted to fill it with 2lbs according to the r12 sticker which it’s been quick converted."
<edited because I mis-read this> ...wait...it's been "quick converted" to r134a? If so, they are definitely robbing you at $85/lb....if it were still R-12, I could see it being that expensive... I didn't even think AC shops could still get the stuff.
"But how do I know those cans have what they say they do in them and all of it came out?"
If you have a cheap, digital scale used for cooking, they're usually accurate(ish) to the tenth of a pound. Weigh the can before use, then when you think it's done, disconnect and re-weigh it..the difference in weight is obviously the loss in refrigerant.
In my experience (and I'm no trained A/C tech, but I have successfully fixed or converted 3 systems on my vehicles) when you get to the bottom of the can, it can take a long time to completely empty out.
R-12 only costs around $20 per pound if you have a permit to buy it.
those charge cans with the gauge on them dont really tell you anything.
you need both high and low side gauges to properly charge an AC system.
you also need to know ambient temperature to know what the high and low pressures are supposed to be.
the cans 35 psi is good dont mean squat if it is 100 degrees ambient temp. you will be way undercharged at 35
$5/oz is what it goes for retail at shops I have seen, pretty nuts. I bought 45lbs of R12 last winter for $500. That stuff has real low value anymore. I just keep some on hand for two of my old Euro cars
Those $10 134A cans at Walmart are what you need. They are labeled 12oz. Three will near fully charge your system, like 94% I think. You need one of those brass can taps or get a good side tap from Robinair
Buy good gauges, they are not that much more costly over Harbor Freight ones. Yellow Jacket or Mastercool.
It's best to use the right amount. if you are slightly over/under, the system will still work. It's best to see both sides of the A/C system for a good diagnosis, but if I recall, not every system has high and low side ports. If you have a sight glass, that might be useful too.
35 psi at 100 degrees ambient temp will not even turn the low pressure switch on.
i have also seen cars come in with alleged 35 psi in it from those gauges that actually have close to 60 psi low and 450 high side
the parts store "can with a gauge" are for getting the system working enough to sell a car, not for permanent repair.
proper AC repair takes training.
I agree 100% and when I shared this same thinking about someones brake problem, I was told I was a troll. I probably am, but knowing/understanding what you are doing, sure helps you to prevent other problems. The DIY A/C gas is just a real bad idea, but it certainly can provide another source of revenue when it comes to selling you more parts.
Don't think it was so much anybody calling you a troll as much as it was you doing the "no, no Nancy the Nanny, you should leave that to the professionals" bit.
Which can be thrown out there on just about anything done on this forum.
