Truck has been pretty reliable but went out of town last weekend, came home Sunday and got in my truck. Drove it with no problems. Woke up the next day to take my son to school and it wouldn't start. Wouldn't even crank. It's the push to start but when I'd push the button I could hear a click, which I think is normal, but that was it. Figured maybe the batteries died. Tested voltage and they were both 12.7 so didn't think that was the issue, but tried jumping it anyway and still nothing but the click. Disconnected the batteries for 5 minutes and reconnected. Same thing.

Tried shifting it into gear and back into park thinking maybe it was something to do with the neutral safety switch. That did nothing.

Next thought was the starter. Jumped the starter and the starter engaged but the engine would not start.

At one point while going through trying to think of what else it could be (while all of the doors were closed) I heard the chime going off inside. I opened the door and all kinds of warning lights popped up. They eventually went away, but every so often they'll pop back up.

I guess I'm leaning to something electrical. I checked battery terminals and fuses. Any suggestions on where to go from here? A friend of mine said something about possibly needing to get IDS (?) to scan?

I found this video but it's a 2020+. About 1:10 in is how my dash looked. But from what I can tell, the battery junction box that he replaced in the video is not the same in the 2017-2019 models, and I can't even find a part # for it.

 

I can pretty much guarantee you that at least one battery is bad.
A voltage test does not show battery health and unless you disconnected one battery when you did your voltage test then that wasn't accurate either because the batteries are interconnected.
I bet a proper battery LOAD TEST will show at least one battery bad, and this test must be done with at least one battery disconnected.

And, when you find that you have one bad battery, replace BOTH, as the older one will bring the new one down eventually.

 

Wouldn't it be odd though that it wouldn't even turn over when trying to jump it? Nothing. Just the clicking sound that I could hear in the cab. Trust me, I hope it's just 2 batteries! I'll gladly replace both of them to get it back on the road.

 

No, if that one bad battery has a direct plate to plate short in it, then jumping won't overcome it.
You can try disconnecting one battery and do the voltage test on each battery individually, and maybe show one low reading.
If so, then take that one battery down to a shop that has a proper load tester, and get it checked, bet it will fail.
If you don't get a low voltage on either battery, then it might be something else, but I would take both batteries to get load tested even if it comes out that way.

 

Wish me luck. Gonna take both batteries to get tested this afternoon.

 

I just replaced mine a few weeks ago, truck was barely over 1.5 years old.
Bought walmart batteries, so far so good, and since I travel all over, there is always a walmart not too far away if I have any trouble out of them.

 

I just had this happen on my 2019. One battery was toast, the other was not great either. Replaced both and it starts like it was new.

 

Replaced both batteries. Still nothing. I didn’t have the old ones tested, just grabbed 2 on the way home from work.

So where to go from here?

 

I don't remember the symptoms but there was a thread recently where the BCM had corrosion from water entering the cab and running onto the BCM. You could pop the passenger side kick panel and do an inspection. That BJB in the video is a possibility but on your '17 not nearly as easy to R&R.

As for the batteries, my Odyssey AGM batteries only show 12.4v when connected to the truck and I have never had a starting issue.

 

Well, that is of course, why they tell you to do the diagnostic steps instead of just replacing parts, so you won't buy parts you don't need and can't return.

So, the truck comes alive, dash lights up, interior lights work, etc, just no crank?

If so, next step I would take is to run a code scan with a good scan tool, see if anything pops there.
Also, I think a battery replacement needs a reset done to the pcm, seems to me that they connected their scan tool when they replaced the batteries in my truck.

 

Check your run/start relay in the bjb under the hood for corrosion.

 

Try a different key fob and install new batteries in them. Have the starter tested. Bad solenoid? Is the security light flashing when you try to start? If so, then the immobilizer circuit has been activated. Is the glow plug light illuminated? If so, then likely the glow plug circuit is disabling cranking. That could be due to a malfunctioning temperature sensor putting the glow circuit into maximize time delay. Stick your ear to the open fuel filler and listen for the fuel pump to cycle with the key. Have you checked ALL fuses? Have you verified cranking power to the starter solenoid with a test light or a meter? There are plenty of possibilities, so eliminate the obvious and easy tests before buying more parts. Good Luck!

 

Please keep us updated on this issue. Nothing worse thnt a non-starting vehicle. (Except one that dies on the side of the road)

 

No updates as of now. A friend of mine that is a mechanic that maintains a fleet of work trucks for a gas company stopped by earlier last week. He said he checked the fuses and relays and didn't see anything blown. So where we stand now is that we have checked:

batteries
starter
fuses
relays

I have Forscan but never used it. Can't find the OBD to USB adapter so just bought one on Amazon. We'll see what info I can gather from that.

 

Maybe the brake pedal switch?