New rebuilt 351W needed
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 767
Likes: 132
From: Lynden, WA
New rebuilt 351W needed
I'm looking at replacing my E4OD transmission with a rebuilt unit and since I have 186k miles on truck thinking maybe it's due to replace engine now too, Thinking of a 351 with a stronger torque curve and better torque for towing periodically. What are some manufacturers that can produce a well built heavy duty engine that will work with the factory EFI and stock exhaust systems?
FTE Chapter Leader
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 12,338
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From: Central Mississippi
You have a roller-lifter block engine to begin with, produced for only 4 years that makes it quite desirable.
The core cost is going to be high & what you get rebuilt from a reman company is liable to be more worn to begin with than what you have now.
Unless the original was abused or stretched to its limits, the current is probably in better shape than you imagine.
If you want a "new" engine, do some research, select some choice parts & have a trusted builder do it over a company that is interested in quantity over quality.
The core cost is going to be high & what you get rebuilt from a reman company is liable to be more worn to begin with than what you have now.
Unless the original was abused or stretched to its limits, the current is probably in better shape than you imagine.
If you want a "new" engine, do some research, select some choice parts & have a trusted builder do it over a company that is interested in quantity over quality.
Cargo Master
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 2,826
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If you have MAF, I would seriously look into a stroker engine.
I picked up a 351W used engine for $200 from the local wrecking yard. Original it was $500 and then he called me saying that it was no good because of water. After a few minutes of talking, we agreed at $150 and a $50 pull charge. Since I was using this engine to rebuild, I picked it up. Complete engine. Everything but the accessories. They are out there for good prices.
I picked up a 351W used engine for $200 from the local wrecking yard. Original it was $500 and then he called me saying that it was no good because of water. After a few minutes of talking, we agreed at $150 and a $50 pull charge. Since I was using this engine to rebuild, I picked it up. Complete engine. Everything but the accessories. They are out there for good prices.
Mountain Pass
Joined: Oct 2020
Posts: 159
Likes: 35
If you have the time and some basic rebuilding skills, doing an overhaul yourself will probably yield a better end product than a parts store reman. Lots of stories of only one or two cylinders being overbored, corners cut etc on the remans.
Parts are cheap for the windsor, and a stock-ish rebuild is very straight forward. About the only parts you can't do in your garage are to get the block hot-tanked and if it needs bored at all. The junkyard 351w l started with only needed hot tanked, freeze plugs and cam bearings from the machine shop. Did all the honing and assembly myself. You can also get away with a few upgrades like a cam while in there.
Parts are cheap for the windsor, and a stock-ish rebuild is very straight forward. About the only parts you can't do in your garage are to get the block hot-tanked and if it needs bored at all. The junkyard 351w l started with only needed hot tanked, freeze plugs and cam bearings from the machine shop. Did all the honing and assembly myself. You can also get away with a few upgrades like a cam while in there.
Cargo Master
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 2,826
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I'm no Ford professional but from my understanding, a good set of heads, cam, and a good intake easily wakes up the 5.8L.
All machine shops are different but I just got mine out of the shop and it was $750. Cleaned, checked, and rough bored to .030. Given a good bill of health so I could order my stroker kit.
All machine shops are different but I just got mine out of the shop and it was $750. Cleaned, checked, and rough bored to .030. Given a good bill of health so I could order my stroker kit.
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Oct 2003
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From: Lynden, WA
Lots of good feedback and I appreciate it very much. Having built my share of engines for my cars, trucks and race cars I'm beginning to think that I might have one more engine to build in this life. I'm sure there are good roller cams that I could use to build a little more power and an increase in compression sure won't hurt either. Might look into what can be done in the "tune" that the engine runs on stock too.
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 767
Likes: 132
From: Lynden, WA
On another note, I see your F150 has had a manual shift transfer case swapped in. I am needing to do that so I can tow the truck behind my motorhome. As you know the electric shift transfer case has no neutral while the manual shift does. I need the neutral to flat tow it. Any issues other then bolt in swap?
FTE Chapter Leader
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 12,338
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From: Central Mississippi
I did GT40s, flat-top hypereutectics, hybrid intake, comp 512 & cobra 1.7 roller rockers & got a fairly certain 300 hp at the flywheel with stock SD on my 94.
All for a little over 3K. It's really plenty for most of us. But you always want more after a while.
I also had my E4 built before the engine to post 95 specs with several upgraded parts.
All for a little over 3K. It's really plenty for most of us. But you always want more after a while.
I also had my E4 built before the engine to post 95 specs with several upgraded parts.
Mountain Pass
Joined: Oct 2020
Posts: 159
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I did a similar build to Scndsin, GT40 heads, dished pistons (9.2:1), Speedmaster rods, stock 5.8 intake, comp 512 cam, 1.7 roller rockers, shorty headers and 3" single exit exhaust. Currently working on swapping out the stock PCM to a Megasquirt Standalone, but I'd be thrilled for 300HP at the crank. Also generally under $3k including machine shop.
Cargo Master
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 3,331
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From: Laramie, WY
My build was a little tamer with gt40p heads, factory roller cam, 1.7:1 roller rockers, ported intake and long tube headers. Reused pistons. Really woke up the engine. I haven't tuned mine. I added 4.10 gears later and that was a help too.
As for the manual shift t-case swap, it wasn't bad. My '96 didn't have a hole in the floor like some do (with a bolt on cover plate), that was the only semi tricky thing to figure out, but not bad.
As for the manual shift t-case swap, it wasn't bad. My '96 didn't have a hole in the floor like some do (with a bolt on cover plate), that was the only semi tricky thing to figure out, but not bad.
Cargo Master
Joined: Mar 2007
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Did the long tube headers cause more noise? Which brand? Would you recommend them to others?
I am building a stroker 408-418 and I am kind of stuck on header choice. I have shorties now on my stockish Kenne-Bell supercharged 5.8L. I'm leaning on building my own, but I do not want to spend that amount of time, especially if it ends up being too loud.
I am building a stroker 408-418 and I am kind of stuck on header choice. I have shorties now on my stockish Kenne-Bell supercharged 5.8L. I'm leaning on building my own, but I do not want to spend that amount of time, especially if it ends up being too loud.
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