Differential identification
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Trailering
Joined: May 2023
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Differential identification
This is all I really seen aside from a stamped ford symbol and a number stamped that looked like 1
The only identification I could see aside from those stamps was one that looked like it said 1. The truck is a 1983 Ford f150 300 inline 6 4x4 standard cab.
I also found this documentation
https://www.garysgaragemahal.com/axle-ratios.html
What rebuild kits fits this and or how else can I identify it? Tia
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 1,926
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From: Saskatchewan Canada
Ford 8.8. Casting numbers are not going to be a great deal of help and you can safely assume somebody has been in it already because there is no tag on the cover bolts. All is not lost however. Check the certification label in the door jamb and tell us what the axle code is.
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Trailering
Joined: May 2023
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Ford 8.8. Casting numbers are not going to be a great deal of help and you can safely assume somebody has been in it already because there is no tag on the cover bolts. All is not lost however. Check the certification label in the door jamb and tell us what the axle code is.
Here’s the vin tag and it looks like the it says the axle is 18? Like you said tho I’m sure someone else has been in there and was not sure if this was the stock differential.
I highlighted axle 18 and yr 83 on the chart. Does this help?
Moderator
Joined: Jan 2001
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From: Virginia
Looks like it is a 3.08 ratio 8.8 Ford rearend. More than likely it's original, since it's a 4x4. If they swapped the rearend out it would have to match the front differential. Have you ever had it in 4x4 and it worked ok?
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Trailering
Joined: May 2023
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I recently bought the truck due to loving the bull nose look and looking for a project. I only drove the truck from where I bough to my home which was about a hr ride.
30 mins of 65-75mph and about 30 mins of driving through town.
I noticed that seal was leaking where the “pinion seal”? Is hence this post
The only other problem I’m having is I think the transmission needs replaced. After the transmission swaps to third gear and you let off the gas you hear a lot of clunking. So I was going like 75 perfectly fine but when I left off the gas grinding noise pursued as soon as you accelerate tho it disappears. So from 50 up as soon as you let off.
Last edited by jacky Chan; May 10, 2023 at 11:36 PM.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 1,926
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From: Saskatchewan Canada
The only other problem I’m having is I think the transmission needs replaced. After the transmission swaps to third gear and you let off the gas you hear a lot of clunking. So I was going like 75 perfectly fine but when I left off the gas grinding noise pursued as soon as you accelerate tho it disappears. So from 50 up as soon as you let off.
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FTE Legend
Joined: Nov 2015
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From: Angier, NC
when under power beside making noise they can also vibrate just before they come apart all together.
It is hard to pin point a noise on this side of the computer.
I would check the oil levels in the front & rear axles, transfer case and transmission.
Dave ----
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FTE Legend
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From: Angier, NC
Make sure the axle vent is open.
Dave ----
Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2013
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Please let the record show I am being good and am refraining from making a cheap joke about noises coming from somebody's rear end.
For a noise that changes with coasting or acceleration, I'd certainly first look at the rear differential. Considering it has been puking oil, the gears may very well have run dry and are chewed up. It should be a simple matter to remove the cover and give the gears a good visual inspection.
If the gears are good, definitely take care of that seal at the front. Your life will be much simpler if you can use an impact gun to remove the nut, versus trying to get it with a big breaker bar. After that, you'll need a bolt grip puller to remove the yoke.
After replacing the seal, reassembly creates a quandary. Like nearly any modern differential, a crush sleeve was used for setting the preload on the pinion shaft bearings. By the book, you're not supposed to reuse a crush sleeve, but a lot of guys do. I don't recommend this. The best option is to replace it. Another less known option is to add a shim to the existing crush sleeve, so it takes a new bite, so to speak.
For a noise that changes with coasting or acceleration, I'd certainly first look at the rear differential. Considering it has been puking oil, the gears may very well have run dry and are chewed up. It should be a simple matter to remove the cover and give the gears a good visual inspection.
If the gears are good, definitely take care of that seal at the front. Your life will be much simpler if you can use an impact gun to remove the nut, versus trying to get it with a big breaker bar. After that, you'll need a bolt grip puller to remove the yoke.
After replacing the seal, reassembly creates a quandary. Like nearly any modern differential, a crush sleeve was used for setting the preload on the pinion shaft bearings. By the book, you're not supposed to reuse a crush sleeve, but a lot of guys do. I don't recommend this. The best option is to replace it. Another less known option is to add a shim to the existing crush sleeve, so it takes a new bite, so to speak.
Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 7,178
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And it would have been really, really funny, had I taken the low road and made such a cheap joke. But I'm not that kind of guy... 