Looking for build threads
Thread Starter
|
Laughing Gas
Joined: Mar 2016
Posts: 757
Likes: 43
From: Cheyenne, Wy
Piston rings
I have ordered the KB138 pistons. I'm sure they don't come with the rings. Although that would be nice. I'm looking at rock auto at the enginetech stuff, Hastings ring set. There are a few options and it all Hebrew to me. Any direction please
Thread Starter
|
Laughing Gas
Joined: Mar 2016
Posts: 757
Likes: 43
From: Cheyenne, Wy
Exhaust crossover
The exhaust crossover thru the intake. This past winter was very cold but was unusual for this area. Could I close off part of the exhaust port to intake by making the hole much smaller so I have some heat for the carb? What effects would there be by closing it completely? How would that effect carb, timing, driving and playing in the snow? I really like to play in the snow. Would I need to close the port on the head or buy a non egr aluminum intake? Would leaving the ex port open and non egr intake burn or hurt the non egr intake?
Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2020
Posts: 2,524
Likes: 715
The heat riser is important to good engine performance under certain conditions. The idea is to produce a hot area at the bottom of the manifold to help the fuel vaporize. This allows the engine to tolerate leaner mixtures. Usually temperatures of about 40 degrees with high humidity are the worst because they can cause carburetor icing. Heating the intake helps to keep that from happening too. An aluminum intake is generally a lot more forgiving and doesn't need as much heat. You could make a restrictor to partially block the crossover passage to cut back on the heating and it would work well.
Thread Starter
|
Laughing Gas
Joined: Mar 2016
Posts: 757
Likes: 43
From: Cheyenne, Wy
Rings for KB138
I've been trying to find the rings for the .kb138 with .030 over. None of rings mention for a .030 over piston. Am I looking for something non existent? My pistons arrived today.
Ooooooops. Was not seeing the drop down. Found the.030 drop down.
Ooooooops. Was not seeing the drop down. Found the.030 drop down.
Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2020
Posts: 2,524
Likes: 715
For flat tappets I like to use the Driven Br 30 or BR 40 oil. If I have the luxury of having the engine on the dyno I like to run it for an hour at about a 20 horsepower load at 2500-3000rpm or so and I vary that around going up to 50 or 75 horsepower of a while. I figure 20-25 horsepower simulates driving down the highway pretty well.
I usually recommend running the oil for a couple hundred miles before dumping it.
For cam lube I also like to use the stuff from Driven. It seems to stay put and then it dissipates into the oil well. I use it only on the lobes and the bottoms of the lifters nothing else. Everywhere else I use 50wt oil, no grease.
I usually recommend running the oil for a couple hundred miles before dumping it.
For cam lube I also like to use the stuff from Driven. It seems to stay put and then it dissipates into the oil well. I use it only on the lobes and the bottoms of the lifters nothing else. Everywhere else I use 50wt oil, no grease.
Thread Starter
|
Laughing Gas
Joined: Mar 2016
Posts: 757
Likes: 43
From: Cheyenne, Wy
Carb.
Going to pickup the engine and heads today. Will start the assembly Saturday afternoon or Sunday. Last night going through all the new stuff, I realized I didn't order the carburetor. Dave what CFM carb should I order? I would like to stay with a Holley carb. I do have the original Motorcraft 4bbl. Would that work for my break in? I delivered my reground cam to Cam Research in Colorado to do that part of break in. I'm not sure how soon the new carb would arrive. Thanks for your help.
5th Wheeling
Joined: Nov 2021
Posts: 38
Likes: 2
Hey Chris,
Hello all. I've been reading through many threads (about 6 pages). I'm looking for links for the way I should build my engine. Actually, have built.
What I'm starting with. 79 E 350 460. Complete rear sump oil pan to factory 4 barrel with air cleaner,. Full front dress with Saginaw PS pump, exhaust manifolds, external balance with hatchet, under 90K miles. Plug wires are still date coded to 79. Emission lines and vacuum lines date coded to 79. I have the plate that goes between the engine and transmission, flex plate, and the vans C6 transmission that I will not be using but was mounted to the engine when I bought it.
What it will be installed into. Daily driver. 1979 F250 4x4 super cab,C6, 35" tires, 410 gears. Will be towing an 7-8000 lb RV some.(Have not bought this yet) Also a smaller camper. (Already own. Little 20'er VERY basic. Bed and potty)
Elevation, mostly 4600-8500. Will make trips from Wyoming (6-6100' elevation) to Michigan below 800' elevation and to Ashville NC (1500-200 elevation) once or twice a year.
My goals. 85-87 octane fuel. Will do 89 if I HAVE to. Obviously this requires a lower static and dynamic compression ratio. Roughly 300 hp/tq to the wheels. Higher trq if possible. Using stock exhaust manifolds. No headers unless absolutely necessary.
Engine is at the builders shop but they haven't started yet. I've asked them to use clevit bearings, Cloyes double roller chain and gears for a 90 460 which is factory straight up timing. Should I use a custom cam from Lykins machine or something from Lunatic cams? Flat tappet or hydraulic tappet? I don't think I need a full roller. Would like a Wieand aluminum dual plane intake. What size carb should I use? I read that it is possible to use the 360/390 engine mounts to install this engine in my truck. Would these work with the hp/tq that I want with the weight of the truck? Do I need to do custom engine mounts? If so, who should I use OR avoid? Will the stock oil pump be enough or will I need a high pressure OR high volume pump?
Is what I'm looking for unrealistic and to conflicting or is it doable? I'm trying to ask as many questions so I have answers for the machine shop. Also so they don't talk me into something that I don't need. I already had 1 shop that kept trying to get me to go big hp, 91octane or higher fuel, mid rise intake, thumping cam. That's not what I wanted.
Any threads here that cover my questions, please share. If more information is needed, please ask. Sorry for the long post and thanks for reading.
Chris.
What I'm starting with. 79 E 350 460. Complete rear sump oil pan to factory 4 barrel with air cleaner,. Full front dress with Saginaw PS pump, exhaust manifolds, external balance with hatchet, under 90K miles. Plug wires are still date coded to 79. Emission lines and vacuum lines date coded to 79. I have the plate that goes between the engine and transmission, flex plate, and the vans C6 transmission that I will not be using but was mounted to the engine when I bought it.
What it will be installed into. Daily driver. 1979 F250 4x4 super cab,C6, 35" tires, 410 gears. Will be towing an 7-8000 lb RV some.(Have not bought this yet) Also a smaller camper. (Already own. Little 20'er VERY basic. Bed and potty)
Elevation, mostly 4600-8500. Will make trips from Wyoming (6-6100' elevation) to Michigan below 800' elevation and to Ashville NC (1500-200 elevation) once or twice a year.
My goals. 85-87 octane fuel. Will do 89 if I HAVE to. Obviously this requires a lower static and dynamic compression ratio. Roughly 300 hp/tq to the wheels. Higher trq if possible. Using stock exhaust manifolds. No headers unless absolutely necessary.
Engine is at the builders shop but they haven't started yet. I've asked them to use clevit bearings, Cloyes double roller chain and gears for a 90 460 which is factory straight up timing. Should I use a custom cam from Lykins machine or something from Lunatic cams? Flat tappet or hydraulic tappet? I don't think I need a full roller. Would like a Wieand aluminum dual plane intake. What size carb should I use? I read that it is possible to use the 360/390 engine mounts to install this engine in my truck. Would these work with the hp/tq that I want with the weight of the truck? Do I need to do custom engine mounts? If so, who should I use OR avoid? Will the stock oil pump be enough or will I need a high pressure OR high volume pump?
Is what I'm looking for unrealistic and to conflicting or is it doable? I'm trying to ask as many questions so I have answers for the machine shop. Also so they don't talk me into something that I don't need. I already had 1 shop that kept trying to get me to go big hp, 91octane or higher fuel, mid rise intake, thumping cam. That's not what I wanted.
Any threads here that cover my questions, please share. If more information is needed, please ask. Sorry for the long post and thanks for reading.
Chris.
im looking specifically for the vacuum diagram decal. Mine is not really readable. I’ll attach what’s on mine.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
JSJ 78 F250
Big Block V8 - 385 Series (6.1/370, 7.0/429, 7.5/460)
8
Apr 19, 2020 05:30 PM
Jimmyrig
1973 - 1979 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
23
Sep 29, 2013 04:53 PM
boomhower_85
1973 - 1979 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
12
Aug 28, 2013 09:32 PM
JimNolan
FE & FT Big Block V8 (332, 352, 360, 390, 406, 410, 427, 428)
22
Aug 19, 2010 11:42 AM
bluesmanb3
Big Block V8 - 385 Series (6.1/370, 7.0/429, 7.5/460)
5
Dec 7, 2004 09:45 PM