When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I have a 99.5 with 2wd abs. I have all new calipers, soft brake lines, master cylinder. I completely flushed my brake fluid and my power steering fuild. But still have a fading brake pedal. It brakes fine as it starts as a firm pedal but slowly just keeps dropping, it does this as well while off. I have no leaks either, I'm pretty stumped. I just bought a rabs valve thinking maybe that's the problem or is that only a problem with the 4 wheel abs valves? I appreciate the help in advance as I've run out of ideas on what's causing this.
Usually a slow fade like that with no external leaking is an internal failure between the two chambers of the master brake cylinder. Pedal will slowly drop and then get firm an inch off the floor. Either that or it's leaking in an unusual location and you just haven't spotted it yet. But that will be accompanied by a dropping brake fluid level as you operate the brakes repeatedly.
So, before I replaced the the master cylinder it was doing this same thing. No difference at all between the old and new master cylinder, I feel like there would have been at least a little difference between the two? Do you happen to know if the rabs valve would cause this at all?
I haven't installed the new one yet as I want to make sure that's even an issue. I have read about a paperclip test but I think that's only referring to the 4 wheel abs valve and not the rear wheel abs valve?
Before this brake problem happened.. I was driving and went over a speed hump pretty hard while braking and had quite a bit of pedal kickback (assuming that's abs?) and then the brake pedal was immediately in the state it is now with fading to the floor
Before this brake problem happened.. I was driving and went over a speed hump pretty hard while braking and had quite a bit of pedal kickback (assuming that's abs?) and then the brake pedal was immediately in the state it is now with fading to the floor
My method is a little different. Fill the reservoir to the top. Starting with the wheel farthest from the MC, (unless you have air in the closer ones due to new calipers installed or something, then start with the dry ones first), attach a length of hose to the outlet of the bleeder and put the other end of the hose into a bottle. Open bleeder. Have a partner pump the brake pedal top to bottom repeatedly until the fluid level reaches the add mark. Hold pedal down as far as it will go on the last stroke. Close the bleeder. If you have to do this alone, use a stick to hold the pedal firmly to the floor. There can be no relaxation of force on the brake pedal before you close the bleeder or it will suck air back in. Repeat at each wheel. Go around twice and you should have all the old fluid replaced with new.
Before this brake problem happened.. I was driving and went over a speed hump pretty hard while braking and had quite a bit of pedal kickback (assuming that's abs?) and then the brake pedal was immediately in the state it is now with fading to the floor
please re do it this way
press pedal and hold down
open bleeder and close once no more fluid flows out fast
repeat 6 times and recheck fluid level after 2 times
your method of pump when bleeder is open, allows air to get back into the fluid
My method is a little different. Fill the reservoir to the top. Starting with the wheel farthest from the MC, (unless you have air in the closer ones due to new calipers installed or something, then start with the dry ones first), attach a length of hose to the outlet of the bleeder and put the other end of the hose into a bottle. Open bleeder. Have a partner pump the brake pedal top to bottom repeatedly until the fluid level reaches the add mark. Hold pedal down as far as it will go on the last stroke. Close the bleeder. If you have to do this alone, use a stick to hold the pedal firmly to the floor. There can be no relaxation of force on the brake pedal before you close the bleeder or it will suck air back in. Repeat at each wheel. Go around twice and you should have all the old fluid replaced with new.
This is the exact way I did it.. Open, pump, hold, close. Was easier to type lol
please re do it this way
press pedal and hold down
open bleeder and close once no more fluid flows out fast
repeat 6 times and recheck fluid level after 2 times
your method of pump when bleeder is open, allows air to get back into the fluid
Have the hose trapped and air can't back track. The amount of ways to skin a cat
When I replaced my calipers and lines, I bled it and it was perfect the way I bleed brakes. Once my brake pedal started fading after hitting that speed hump figuring it was the MC I replaced that and still the same. It's not air in the system. It's something mechanical
didnt see that detail, this is going to be a guessing game?
Lol yeah.
I was hoping someone could tell me more about the abs valve and if that could be causing this? Or I'm just going to have to try another MC or if the hydroboost can cause this? I don't know
This Hennessey Takes the Expedition Tremor's Off-Roading Capability to the Next Level
Slideshow: The VelociRaptor Expedition gains a lift, upgraded suspension, Brembo brakes, and trail-ready equipment while retaining the stock 440-horsepower EcoBoost V6.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
