Hi FTE! I recently got my 1963 f100 with a 223 engine running, but it is hitting 220 degrees(according to my gauge) in like 20min sitting in my driveway. I have the radiator cap off to see if it will start cycling, but it never does and starts to steam out. When I turn off the engine the carb smokes. After I ran it, I checked the temps with a home depot temp gun and the exhaust manifold/headers were well over 400 degrees and the intake manifold was at about 150 degrees. The thermostat housing was about 200 degrees. Everything is stock, only thing I have done is changed oil, oil filter, and added the pertronix for the distributor/flame thrower coil.

Any help of advice would be appreciated.

 

My first thought is a stuck thermostat. I would replace that and see if it makes a difference.

 

A good test would be to remove the thermostat and run it without one to see if it still runs hot. If it runs cool then replace the t-stat and see how it does. JMO

 

Thanks! I will check the t stat and test it.

 

A clogged radiator could be the culprit.

 

If you don't see circulation it might be the thermostat. Could also be the water pump, but unlikely. Get a new thermostat and test it in hot water before you put it in. Sometimes they are bad out of the box, a quick test on the stove will show you it is opening. If you want you can add a thermometer and get a feeling about the opening temperature too. Sounds funny, but use a pantyhose at the upper hose to catch all the stuff which might start to flow around and can clog the radiator. It works and is cheaper than an inline filter.

 

Okay, so swapped t stats and it stayed about 185-190 from my gauge, but when I turned off the truck smoke from the carburetor comes out and I could see the radiator steaming and it was hot to touch. Ran it in the driveway for about 20mins. Still seems to be hot but I dunno. I know the timing has to be off, it runs rough, like it has a performance cam in it. I might need to take it to a garage and see if someone can dial it in.

 

With a few hand tools you can do it your shelf.
You need a compression tester, vacuum gauge, a tach / dwell meter and a timing light would be nice but with the vacuum gauge you can also set timing.

You should run a compression test to make sure you dont have a dead hole and that is why it runs ruff.
If all the holes read good on the compression test you can move on.
How are the plugs, wires, cap & rotor? Maybe they need to be replaced?

Are you still running points & condenser?
If so the first thing you need to do it check to see if the points are pitted.
If so file them flat, yes there is a points file just for this, or replace the points.
Note I did not say condenser as the new ones I hear dont last long so reuse your old condenser if you can.

Set them first with a feeler gauge and then fine tune with the dwell meter.
Set the idle speed if it is high and set timing with the light.
No light use the vacuum gauge and adjust timing for highest reading.
If it will not start when hot, kick back like dead battery then retard the timing some till it will start hot.
Readjust the idle speed.

By this point I hope the motor is running smoother.
With the vacuum gauge hooked up, motor up to temp we can adjust the carb idle mix screw.
Turn the screw in and out to get the highest reading on the gauge.
When at the highest reading you leave it there or turn it in 1/8 turn to lean it out.

That is all there is to it, not hard at all so why pay someone to do it?
Dave ----

 

Do the simple things first. How long did it sit before you got it? If it was a long time, I’d flush the block , change the water-pump as a matter of course, maybe even have the radiator rodded out and cleaned. I’ve done that on any and all new ‘old’ vehicles as soon as I take possession, and feel good knowing I’ll likely never have to do these things again.

 

x 2 on the vacuum gauge. You'll learn a lot about how the valves and timing are cooperating along with the carb mix.

 

Thanks for all feedback! I will need to get a vacuum gauge, but I did a compression test today and I think I found one of my issues.
Cyl1 - 140psi
Cyl2- 0 psi
Cyl3 - 140 psi
Cyl4 - 0 psi
Cyl5 - 9-10 psi
Cyl6 - 9-10 psi

 

Dan63100,
With those compression readings, I think you may want to repeat that compression test....cause with those values, I don't think it would run at all!!

BarnieTrk

 

Like Bernie said, redo your comp test cause it wouldn't run at all with those numbers. Maybe a faulty gauge, maybe the o-ring fell off, maybe not screwing it in tight enough

 

200 degrees is not too hot and not necessarily unexpected after 20 minutes. You also say "after I ran it" implying that the engine was not running when temperature checks were performed. Engine temps will creep up a little after shutdown, rendering temperature checks inaccurate. It is best to check with the engine running.
If it "steams out" at that temp, then a new radiator cap is needed, assuming that the coolant mixture is correct and the steam does not originate from a crack in the radiator tank, or solder joint, etc, suggesting that other repairs are required.

 

Around 140 is too hot to touch by hand so any component will always seem "too hot" checking it by touch when its at normal operating temperature.

Check temperatures at the thermostat housing, upper radiator hose, and between the spark plugs with an infrared laser thermometer to get accurate temps of the actual components that matter. Gauges aren't always accurate.

"Smoke" out of the carb after shutting it off is probably just fuel evaporating, nothing to worry about.

If the radiator cap is off there will be steam out of the radiator at operating temp, that's normal. If steam is coming out of the cap with the cap on then the cap is bad.

Timing that is too far retarded will cause overheating.

You can use a flush that removes corrosion to improve the system's ability to transfer and shed heat-

https://www.evapo-rust.com/crc-thermocure/