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I have a 77 f250 4wd with a 460 that was swapped into it. One of the bolts for the manifolds is broken off so ill be pulling them off, figured now was the time to look at header options. What brands should I be looking at and size and style would be best without having to do any modifications. Thanks
Do you have a rear sump oil pan? That is always a better mod for a swapped in 460 if it came out of a car. Yes you can off road jump bump the front pumpkin into a front sump oil pan if the truck is stock or has weak front springs. Just saying.
Auto or manual trans? It matters as far as the dvr side header making it past all that manual trans Z bar linkage stuff.
Inside the frame rail can be a giant PITA IMO. Better have a real good muffler shop/exhaust guy to get them to come together and past the xfer case )passenger side for both and above the cross member and on out the back.
Fenderwell exit/over the frame rail. Way easier plus makes finishing the rest of the exhaust way easier outside the frame rail to turn out in front of rear tire. Less pipe and no bend up and over rear axle ='s cheaper.
You can always look at shorties or block huggers, but you are going to need that same good to go to exhaust shop to run the rest.
I have the rear sump oil pan and a 4 speed transmission. I do have a shop local to me that does a lot of custom exhaust work so I’ll have to check with them to make sure they do stuff like this before I get headers but it shouldn’t be a problem. I just want a basic quality system and no headaches if that’s such a thing 😂
Well as the FTE legend (Number Dummy) says..460 WAS not available (FROM THE FACTORY) with 4WD or a Manual Trans until 1983, then only in F250/350's/ No 460's available in F100's after 1976. (And those are 2wd) Yes you can get a 460 in a 2wd in a F150 or F250 in 1978/79.
Just wanted to toss that out there about the oil pan for a FYI. Well inside the frame rail can "cage" the starter. No one wants to have to take a header off to change a starter.
L&L have been providing headers for 460 swaps for years and years. But yes they are pricey and out of stock at times. Especially the coated ones. Mad Dog is fairly new to the game AFAIK.
Be ready to remove the dvr shock tower and the 2 brake line clamp to make the install easier. Shock tower should go back on easy enough. You might have to rebend some brake lines. If you get frame rail exit you might have to grind notch the fwd cab mount (metal bracket) a bit. Like 1/8 ". I am looking for a pic.
Yeah it’s far from an original truck. Eventually when I get the cab off I’m going to look up the vin to see what it had originally. The brake lines will be replaced eventually anyway so that’s not a problem. I’ve heard great things about the L&L headers so I might have to save up and get a set
Can you not see the frame vin on the passenger side about where the exhaust manifold end is?
Frame notch trick for some ill fitting headers and you can see the vin.
Sometimes...when a 460 from a car gets put in and they reuse the shorter length car exhaust manifolds, sometime the inner part of the frame gets notched. Right where the frame vin is.
Sadly I don’t know what they got the 460 from but the pan looks older but then again it was an older swap from an old restoration. The lovely Iowa weather and roads rusts everything here so I’ll have to take a wire brush to the frame to see the vin, it’s currently covered in grime from years of neglect. When im done it’s going to have a new body and all new lines among a lot of other new parts. I have a place that’s going to make me new leaf springs and I’ll put new mounts on. I figured since im already putting in the work why not do it right the first time.
I think the same yahoos put a couple of different engines in, since it got TWO frame notches. FAIL. I was looking for my vin, so I took the front clip off. LOL
Houston we have a problem. At least the 1st part of the vin is there.
Double notched knuckle heads.
So lets weld some angle iron over the rest of the vin.
Once I have the body off I have to have a state investigator come look at the vin and the cabs vin so I can rebody it and get a new vin number. Iowa assigns a new vin anytime there’s a swap like this.
Wow it is interesting how some state DMV do things. Here is the other vin location, if the cab is on and the floor pan is junk.
When the cab is still on.
Easy once the cab is off, but yea rust can make it very hard to find.
You getting new dvr door Warranty Plate and B pillar Safety Certification white sticker from Marti Auto? https://www.martiauto.com/tags.cfm
The state will issue a new sticker for it. An investigator has already looked at it and once it’s done they will give it the sticker. He was very nice and understanding since Iowa has a lot of rust. The truck is currently on its second body and soon it’s third. The original door plate has to stay and they just add one. I’m sure some haven’t and just don’t update the title which is fine unless they sell it or something along those lines. I’m doing it to make it easier on insurance as proof of what I’ve done.
