right now my 92 f150 has stock tires and wheels, im not sure of the size though because i dont see it on the sidewall anywhere. but if i put bigger tires on it, like 33"s..will that throw my speedometer off, and if yes, how do i adjust the speedometer?

thanks

 

yes it will throw it off and you will need to get a calibration kit.

 

instead of making a new thread for a small question, ill just post it here....

will 33"s fit on a 92 f150 4x4 without a lift? if not, whats the biggest size that will fit? thanks

 

33's will probably rub a little. Usually on the front bumper and radius arms.
You don't need any kind of kit to recalibrate the PSOM in your truck. Look in the "Tech Articles" section under the 2001 articles.

 

I don't know about the fit, but as for the speedo, mine's only set off about 5mph @45mph, so it's not too hard to go the right speed.

 

When i drive 80km/hr im actually going 100km/hr. To fix it you need a calibration kit, but why bother it shows less kilometers on the odometer.lol.

According to a chart i have our trucks come stock with 32 x 11.50, it says to clear 33 x 12.50 you need a 3" susp. lift. To clear 35s you need a 3" body lift and at least a 3 " susp. lift. To clear 36" you need a 6" susp. lift 38.5" you need a 3" body lift and 6" body lift. 39" you need 8" susp. lift.


1995 f150 shortbox reg cab
302 5.0 5 speed
4"procomp susp, 3" body
35" super swampers
heddman hedders

 

You can fit 33's on your truck by simply changing out your front coils for a set of 2wd F-350 coil springs in front and and add-a-leaf in the rear. I was able to fit the 33's with no problem on the stock rims.I did shim my front bumper out about 3/4" using washers. The ride was a little stiffer but worked great for me to carry my snow plow with. I ended up with about 2" lift in front. Granted I did rub on the radius arms, but I learned not to turn as much and it really didn't affect anything. I have since outgrown the 33's (see below )

For the speedo, just do the recalibration as outlined in the tech articles, no need to buy some expensive recalibration kit, unless you make it a big habit of recalibrating your speedo.

 

thanks for the help guys, that tech article sounds alot easier too.

 

KJETT,
do you still rub your radius arms with 35's. I have 35's and they rub. Cant turn very sharp.Hows the 4.56 gears, I still have stock 3.55's, should i go 4.56's? Hows the gas milage or any change of power to speed on highway driving?Another thing, do you know anything about camber? Im out 3 degrees or so. Negative camber. Tires look like this / \. It sucks. Could new coil springs help me? I have a 4" susp. lift so there lifted coils.
Thanks

 

I don't rub with the 35's however I have scrapped the POS TTB that was in my truck and put in a SOLID front Dana 44 from a 1972 F-100. I have 35x14.5x15 Ground Hawgs and dont rub a bit. i actually have a better turning radius now. I don't have the top end like I had with the 33's and 3.55 gears, but I can say that I am quite quick in the beanfield races and have great low end off road. If your truck is mainly a daily driver with occasional off road time, I'd go to 4.10's and save some top end for the highway. I can't run at 90 mph all the time without hearing my truck scream, but I can get there really quick!

As for your camber, are you sure it looks like / \ and not \ / ? I know that when I originally lifted my front it looked like \ / until I did the center axle drop. If your kit didn't come with it, JCWhitney sells a kit from Tuff Country that have camber adjustment bolts that will help with your alignment. Your exact problem is why I ditched the TTB for the solid. Don't get me wrong, the TTB is a great axle if you leave your truck STOCK, I have heard and know more horror stories about keeping a TTB truck aligned after it was lifted. That is except for those pavement pounding parking lot queens that lift for show and not for go. Just my $.02 though, no offense to any parking lot show queens

 

Yea there / \. I wnet to a mech. and then it was out about 5 degrees on either side. They added some shims in there that brought it to about 3 degrees. Still no good for me though as i want to buy new tires but dont want to ruin them. The mech said it was due to tired coil springs. Whats your opinion on coils. Would that bring in the negatively camber?I dont know to much about axles and that as i am trying to learn as much as possible about my truck, but wouldnt my axles be dana 44s aswell. They say 44 on front and rear diff. I have my head spinning here wondering if i have stock gears or not. According to door jam they are 3.55s and the tag says
S83 8J
55 88 5E25
(10 bolt design)
Any ideas??

 

Not sure about the "tired coils" thing. How old is your lift and who makes it? If the truck is a 95 with a 4" lift, it can't be that bad, unless you do some major off road articulating or carry a heavy load on the front end alot (like a snow plow). That would be the only way I know that your coils would wear out that fast. I know that when I had my ttb and ran my plow, my fron end looked like / \ , which is caused when the springs are compressed past their normal rest state.

I actually like coils as they offer a great ride and articulate well off road. Your front is a Dana 44 reverse rotation axle, it is just that it is an indipendant front where the axle has a center pivot point that make your axle kind of look like and "x" where the older f-150s (up to 1979) and most all f-350s have a solid front axle that like more like "--" . There is a ton of great info on this site that can further explain the different Dana axle strengths and weaknesses. I found that this site helped be make my decision for the 72 front axle that is in my 95 F-150:

http://77cj.littlekeylime.com/web_rs44.html

Read through it and see what you think..