When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
The tube is a tight press fit into the manifold (at least originally). Pretty hard to get them out without ruining the fit, so when you put it back it may wobble around and leak. Unless it comes out by pulling by hand, I'd leave it in.
Are you going to take off the manifold to pull the engine? That is my preferred setup if the fenders are in place. To get the engine high enough to clear the fenders, I had to get a hook point as low as possible. I made a lifting plate that uses the manifold holes:
Thanks Ross,I will not mess with the oil tube then!This is my first time on doing this so I may have more questions.I was really hoping on not taking the front clip off.
I prefer to take the front unit off. Very few bolts holding it on.
2 each on firewall seam, frame on a 52, 2 more radiator bottom bolts and a couple on your running board.
Two guys can lift it free (or 1 and a cherry picker) and you have complete access to the engine.
I need to get my transmission checked also.Is it best to pull with engine or can I go ahead and take it out before engine is pulled?Either way do I still have to take drive shaft loose?My floor pan is out and just trying to figure out what to do here?
As you can tell from the comments, everybody has a different idea of what is the best way.
With the front end off, I like to pull engine and trans as a unit. Disconnect the drive shaft and be sure to unhook the brake return spring!
With the whole thing on the floor it's easy to remove/replace the trans.
Can you take the trans out first? Yes, I've done it that way.
I don't think I'd try to pull the engine and trans together with the front clip on. If you have an A-frame engine hoist, maybe. My hoist just barely can lift the engine (alone) high enough to clear the fenders and grille, and it's honestly scary to have that much weight up that high. You can reduce the height of the lift by taking the front wheels off and setting the axle beam on blocks. With the trans attached, front clip on, I think you'd have to remove the radiator, which is almost as much trouble as removing the clip.
I have everything removed including the radiator.If I remove the transmission want the engine drop down at rear?Which is the best way to remove hood,the bolts on hood or the hinges from the firewall?
You don't have to remove the hood to pull the front clip, you can leave it in place. If you do pull the hood, mark the location of the hinge pads so that you can get them put back in the right place and not have to spend a lot of time trying to get things aligned.
Front clips come off pretty easy. I'd pull it with the radiator and support. The biggest issue is wiring.
My truck has been customized and I'm running an aftermarket harness. I've routed my harness down low to keep things out of site. the last time I had the clip off I cut the harness to the front clip and added weatherproof connectors. Now if I need to pull the clip I can just unplug the harness and not have to worry about disconnecting any individual circuit.
The radiator support bolts to the frame, there are several bolts at the bottoms of the fenders to the running boards, and a couple of bolts between the fenders/inner fenders and the cab and it lifts off fairly easy.
The tube is a tight press fit into the manifold (at least originally). Pretty hard to get them out without ruining the fit, so when you put it back it may wobble around and leak. Unless it comes out by pulling by hand, I'd leave it in.
Are you going to take off the manifold to pull the engine? That is my preferred setup if the fenders are in place. To get the engine high enough to clear the fenders, I had to get a hook point as low as possible. I made a lifting plate that uses the manifold holes:
Thanks Ross,I purchased an engine plate that re-places intake.I guess I will have to get much shorter bolts to mount?I am hoping this will safely do the job?
I finally got my engine pulled out.I was wondering about my transmission whether I should get a shop to check it?Maybe new gaskets and front and rear seals and check synchronizers?It does leak some but there is no issues at all on the operation of it!Wouldn't this be wise while I have it out?
I cleaned up the transmission yesterday.There is nothing wrong with the operation of it,so you cant fix something that ain't broke right!I have new gaskets, shifter lever seals and front and rear shaft seals.What parts of the clutch release should be looked at and replaced?I may have ruined the bearing since I pressure washed all the greasy mess???
