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do the bracket. its cheap, easy to install, and maintains OEM geometry. My carli bar is VERY nice but i enjoyed the bracket more as it was cheaper lol.
do the bracket. its cheap, easy to install, and maintains OEM geometry. My carli bar is VERY nice but i enjoyed the bracket more as it was cheaper lol.
Good looking truck!
You are speaking my language lol
I know Carli makes good stuff, just can't see where I actually need it.
The coils I think are a no brainier for the cost. I do have the correct length fox 2.0 shocks already on this truck.
I have Readylift 2.5” coils on my truck but I did not want the relocation bracket. I wanted to have adjustment & a track bar that will be an upgrade from the OEM track bar. I installed a PMF adjustable track bar. Worth the extra few dollars.
I have Readylift 2.5” coils on my truck but I did not want the relocation bracket. I wanted to have adjustment & a track bar that will be an upgrade from the OEM track bar. I installed a PMF adjustable track bar. Worth the extra few dollars.
with the factory track bar bracket and the aftermarket track bar, does it keep the track bar and drag link parallel?
I know with my 4” bds kit and the pitman arm and bds track bar bracket they’re parellel (which is important to keep them following the same arc as the front suspension cycles).
I guess on a 2.5 level it might but I was just curious what those angles looked like.
PMF doesn't share instructions online that I can find, guess I could email them, but do they tell you the length to make the bar per the amount of lift, to get you in the ballpark?
I don’t remember there being any instructions in the box. I centered the axle after installing coils with the full weight of the truck on the suspension & installed it. Alignment shop confirmed that it’s centered when I had it aligned after installing the lift.
DON’T Skimp : go with an ADJUSTABLE Track Bar & use a plumb Bob from each frt fender to center the tires with weight on the axle then center your steering wheel by adjusting drag link. Drive & repeat if needed.
easy pz no alignment needed.
I’ve did dozens of them thru the years.
I went with the PMF adjustable radius arms too to restore the lost negative caster from lifting front end.
These trucks drive & handles better with 4.5 - 5.5* negative caster.
upper ball joint eccentric bushings are the cheesy way out setting caster plus they require a full blown alignment.
It really all depends on how OCD you are. An adjustable trac bar will allow you to perfectly center the axle. A drop bracket will get it close. With manufacturing tolerances being what they are, and depending on how high that level actually lifted it. from where it started..2", 2 1/4" 2 3/4"? the axle might still end up slightly off center. Will that bother you?
DON’T Skimp : go with an ADJUSTABLE Track Bar & use a plumb Bob from each frt fender to center the tires with weight on the axle then center your steering wheel by adjusting drag link. Drive & repeat if needed.
easy pz no alignment needed.
I’ve did dozens of them thru the years.
I went with the PMF adjustable radius arms too to restore the lost negative caster from lifting front end.
These trucks drive & handles better with 4.5 - 5.5* negative caster.
upper ball joint eccentric bushings are the cheesy way out setting caster plus they require a full blown alignment.
How could I ever forget a plumb bob! I am thinking of going with an adjustable bar after more thinking on it, I would hate to just be stuck with whatever I got without it.
When you use a plumb bob, do you just tape it to the fender?
It really all depends on how OCD you are. An adjustable trac bar will allow you to perfectly center the axle. A drop bracket will get it close. With manufacturing tolerances being what they are, and depending on how high that level actually lifted it. from where it started..2", 2 1/4" 2 3/4"? the axle might still end up slightly off center. Will that bother you?
I tend to be OCD, the reason I'm bringing up the question to begin with! I think adjustable track bar is the correct way to do this.
While we are on the topic of levels, I've been doing some searches on potential radius arm upgrades.
I'm on the fence whether I would need them at all as I only ever plan to run a level, but I don't believe my truck is running the proper caster. I know I can get that with bushings, but having a littler extra seems to help these trucks.
I see Superlift has a set that will work with 4-8" of lift, has anyone run this style with just a level? I also would prefer a set with rubber bushings to keep a stockish like ride.
How could I ever forget a plumb bob! I am thinking of going with an adjustable bar after more thinking on it, I would hate to just be stuck with whatever I got without it.
When you use a plumb bob, do you just tape it to the fender?
I just hold the string to the fender strait above the axle seeing how it lines up with tire tread or sidewall.
if you’ll get someone to barely turn the steering wheel with engine off key on : it’ll make lining up the bolt in tracking arm way easier for you.
i get that dead center then center steering wheel after.
While we are on the topic of levels, I've been doing some searches on potential radius arm upgrades.
..
I see Superlift has a set that will work with 4-8" of lift, has anyone run this style with just a level? I also would prefer a set with rubber bushings to keep a stockish like ride.
