Have a 95 7.3/5spd/4.10 rear f350 single cab dually my dad and I have had for 20 years...has 211k on the ticker, had 187k when we got it, and I'm pretty sure those were pretty hard miles...been down on power the last 10 years, but since neither of us were using it to tow anymore, it wasn't a issue...just had it on the lift and it looks like the passenger side up pipe is the lack of power issue, firewall and trans are covered in soot...truck is stock other than the convertor being removed at some point...my question are, 1) need more power than stock 2) while replacing the up pipes, is there anything else that you would recommend/replace while doing that? I'm gonna do up pipes and turbo back exhaust, thinking later doing KC stock plus turbo and hydra tune sooner than later...truck will go back to being a tow rig, 6k-10k once every month or 2.

thanks,
Brian

 

Does the truck still have the flat, restrictive down pipe? If so a Diamond Eye 2 piece 3" pipe can be had for a little over a hundred bucks. I think it is the biggest bang for your buck on these trucks.

 

​​​​​​yes, it's still there...just gonna do a complete exhaust, what's underneath is a hodge-podge pieced together exhaust

 

Pull full exhaust. Manifolds (resurface 'em), uppipes, rest of caca back there. Reseal it all and go from there. I think I saw 14-15psi when I was stock.

The TP38 S300 drop in turbine wheel from KC seems to work well with their billet comp wheel, might be an option dependent upon power level desired. Being a manual, look for a 1.0 A/R turbine housing too.

 

​​​​​​​I do good to see 5psi running it hard through 3rd gear, 1-2psi in 5th normal 55 mph....300/325 hp would be sufficient for my towing needs...I thought about doing the KC balanced assembly and rebuild kit, thoughts? I'm a gasser guy, know nothing but what I've read here on the forums about diesel performance upgrades.

 

My uppies were leaking and missing bolts on manifold at end on drivers side i was getting around 20 prior and now see 25 at 3300

 

You will never be able to run that much sustained power without a charge air cooler. Add that to the list. These non-intercooled trucks struggle with exhaust temperatures at only a couple dozen more horsepower than stock and you desire over 130 extra RWHP.

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you might be surprised how it runs after fixing the boost leaks

Mine would barely get to 65 empty when i bought it
now it has plenty of power even at 80

 

IC is a must at those power levels just like Cleatus posted specially while towing.
AT this point you want a reliable tow pig.

I would add swapping over to late 99-03 IC set up including turbo, pedestal, plenums, driver side manifold, bellow up pipes, spider, and custom IC pipes or pre made ones, either a 7.3 IC, 6.0 IC or aftermarket IC, modified down pipe for the super duty turbo(This is my set up and I'm pleased on how it performs) some will argue to go with better turbo, KC turbo T/4 etc... But this is just my personal opinion and I haven't messed with turbos on these trucks to say option A is better than option b,c,d etc.

​​​​​ Check the super duty 7.3 section lots of turbo topics.

Add E fuel to the list to get rid of the leak prone OBS fuel system.

Stock exhaust flows plenty, I have no real data to prove the downpipe is restrictive but a for piece of mind I would replace with a 3" down pipe (be aware that some cab modification might be needed to fit the down pipe.

 

Fully stock format with a quality tuner like Hydra tuner and Jelibuilt tunes you’ll see 25-28 psi.
For up pipes get bellows ones from RiffRaff Diesel
KC turbos are good to deal with, as you’ve 4:10s and ZF-5 speed I’d install A/R .84 on the exhaust side for quick spool ups or a .91 A/R. I’ve a 1.0 A/R on stock turbo (with KCs balanced assembly) and RiffRaff billet intake wheel and want power to come on off idle. Thus the .84…

Id not mess with exhaust manifolds unless they are leaking, if they are at all straight you can install Flo Pro manifold to block gaskets (as there are none stock), should they be leaking. Also inspect the manifold bolt heads as it’s common for (especially) drivers side rear of block cylinders 6 & 8 to have bolt heads pop off causing leaks.

For mild power no need to swap to Super Duty turbo up pipes and drivers manifold (IMO), you will want:
1) gauges e.g, boost & EGT
2) 3” Down Pipe and if you need to replace exhaust go 4”.
3) change intake to a Tymar type.
4) bellowed up pipes
5) retrofit a SD 99-03 (aluminum tank) aftercooler, use early 99 y pipe intake and Carson Stoffer IC pipes.
6) read up at KC turbos and ensure you install .84 or .91 A/R on exhaust side.
7) DIY electric fuel systems are easy to put together and will make a difference
8) Hydra Chip with Jelibuilt tunes.
9) once you’re this far into it look to injectors as you’ll probably want those…
10) head over to PSN Powerstrokenation and do research there and here.
cheers
j

 

KC300x Stage 1 turbo
S&B intake
cncfab stage 1 hpop
160/30
deleted pedestal
bellowed up pipes
Banks technicooler system
exhaust
Hydra and some good looney tunes
Gauges
Transmission upgrades(if auto) or a good clutch(if zf)
E fuel system,
Go to a single 38 gal rear tank and remove that pesky selector valve

 

Out of the above upgrades, which would be more beneficial. Stage 1 turbo and upgraded hpop? I believe the Efuel, hydra and injectors should take priority but what about turbo vrs. Hpop?

 

I would lean towards the turbo over the hpop, since the turbo would be out when doing up pipes and going e fuel.
Changing the hpop is a breeze if you do e fuel and delete the fuel bowl, so doing it down the road when funds allow is easy.

 

I can see efficiency making the decision but which would be tapped out first when other upgrades are done along with it? In other words, would the hpop or turbo have more capacity after other upgrades?

 

Depends on what injectors, tunes and driving style. I myself would still go with the turbo first. The stock obs turbo leaves a lot to be desired