My truck has a wheelhop problem which makes beating on it kind of hard. I tried buying some slappers but the geometry doesn't work out and the flipped shackle bracket gets in the way anyway. The next option is 4 link style traction bars, but the aftermarket ones available are absurdly priced, usually 1000+ bucks for what amounts to tubestock and a heim joint.







It seems pretty easy to make my own, just wondering if anyone has any experience putting traction bars on these trucks.




This is my idea, using the crossmember rivet holes to form a box section. Unfortunately that's also where my exhaust is and i'm not eager to modify it.

My other thought is a single panhard or 3 link style bar on top of the axle which could be tied into the closer parking brake crossmember. Though i worry that wouldn't be strong enough to resist the axle wrap and the radius would be too tight causing pinion dive.

What do y'all think?

 

Here is a triangulated 4-link that I have. Send me a PM if you are interested...

 

Maybe just the angles but I don't see any shocks which would be an issues as would worn out ones . .

 

Lift blocks make it worse.

 

That picture is from when I was building it, best image i had without the bed on it. It has shocks on it now, still wheelhops

I know, but I took 8 leafs out of the rear and 4 from the front. I had to lift it to keep it level, even then it still has a slight squat to it.

Let me take some measurements, I fear the top bar wants to go where the existing crossmember is and I don't want to alter the frame that much.

 

I don't understand. Take some out, add some back...what was the final result

 

lowering it so it fit in it's tent, and making it ride less like an artillery wagon. I took the maximum out of the front without custom U bolts and it was still nose high so had to level it.

As it stands it rides pretty rough but not bad, and fits in the tent by about 1/2". Dropped it by about 4" overall. Fits under the storage lift in the shop by maybe 1/8"

 

I built an anti-wrap bar for my 4x4 because I got bad wheel hop when I went to soft flexy leaf springs. I see them available for diesel pickups too. Maybe one would work for your application?

Something like this, https://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/AWKIT.html

I built my own out of material I had on hand. Worked great.

 

Yeah that's roughly what I had in mind. Much more reasonable price too.

https://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/R1887.html

Though why the simpler kit in the style i had in mind is twice the price, i don't understand.

I was really wondering if anyone had any examples of these things on bonus built trucks specifically as the obvious mounting points are either too close or too far it seems. And I don't really want to drill the main flange or stress an open box section too much with either bolts or weld.

 

I have to admit I got a bit overwhelmed with the engineering aspects of "proper" setup. Ultimately you have to install what "fits" . I was told by a few that run them to make it parallel to the ground and to put the shackle even with the U-joint at the trans output. I got lucky I guess because I didn't get any lift or squat when I got on the gas. No wrap or hop at all and it planted the tires. And best of all it was made from scrap pieces I had. Well, I did buy the Heim joint.

I had a lot of side to side articulation so I needed Heim joints. I don't think you would need anything but bushings at the axle side on a street truck.

 

There are a few different ways you can go with this.
If you want something you can tune when needed you cant beat https://calvertracing.com/product-categories/caltracs/
I got a set on my drag car as I did not want to deal with a 4 link set up.
A little adjustment makes a big deal on traction on a slick track.

Think someone pointed to anti hop bars for 4x4's
They fit on the top front of the spring going from the front spring mount to the axle and use a rubber shock the bar hits to stop wheel hop.
I have not used them or seen them in use so cant say how well they work.

Being you are using lift blocks that dose not help wheel hop look into having a new set of rear springs made.
Have them made to add the needed lift and remove the block but the big one is have them made like the old school MOPAR SS drag springs.
They run the spring leaves longer to the front so they act like slapper bars but cannot be adjusted.

A cheap way to try this is to clamp the front leaves so they cant move, the rear leaves will do all the springing.
I tried this on a street car I was drag racing before my drag car was done and did not work too good as I still had wheel hop.
Dont know if I could not get the clamp tight enough or what?

Look deeper into each one and see what will work best for you.
Dave ----

 

Neither caltraks or new leafs are options with the original style leafs and hanger brackets (which i paid a lot of money to renew). If i was going to spend that kind of money i'd just put in a ladder bar and coils rather than replace the leaf spring setup entirely. Lift blocks are moot if the axle is positively controlled by a linkage.

The leafs are also appropriately clamped already. On an underaxle setup like this you want to clamp the rears as they'll want to spread and you'll lose all spring effort but the mainspring's, on an over axle setup you'll clamp the front for the same reason.




Short of making entirely new exhaust, the best option seems to be moving the traction bar bracket up to the closer crossmember. However the short length of the arm and the wacky plane it's on makes me fear it'll cause pinion dive.

I could of course make the bracket much taller to make the plane square with the leafs, but that would make the arm even shorter and put a lot of leverage against the frame and the mere two bolts/rivets going into the crossmember.

Maybe i'll mock it up in 3d and test the linkage there. The best option is the forward crossmember but the exhaust will be an extreme bother i'd rather avoid.

 

Steve,
Would some thing like these Shelby Mustang override bars work for you? You could probably fab up any brackets needed just an idea,
https://www.npdlink.com/product/trac...y-style/213908
There is also a underride style also.
https://www.virginiaclassicmustang.c...y-P482280.aspx

 

These traction bars are just like the kind we used on our cars in the 60's & 70's on the 1/4 mile drag strip. They worked great.

 

yeah that's what i have in mind, I'm really just asking for if anyone has any experience putting it on these trucks specifically as i'm concerned with mounting points. I expect to make it myself from scratch.