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2011 FX4 6.2 XLT SC SB 6 speed auto with 150k on it.
I've owned it 2017 it had 90k on it.
Been really a good truck.
I took it in and had plugs, tranny service and new brakes/rotors when I purchased it just to be certain of where I was starting out at.
I mostly use it to pull my bumper pull
travel trailer which is 25 feet long, trailer dry is 5346 lbs, GVWR 7702 lbs, hitch weight 702 lbs
Payload sticker on truck is 3095 lbs
Everything under the truck is stock.
It pulls great, rides great, stops great.
Would any upgrades be worth it?
Now that wife is retired it will get a lot more time pulling, and much longer outings, further away.
If yes, please explain how it would improve the stock set up, etc, thank you!
I think my shocks are stock, original equipment.
My ride seems solid, no bouncing, etc, comfortably stiff?
What might I expect different if I go that way?
Now how are these adjustable?
Say would I stiffen them up with the trailer hooked up, less dipping on the rear going over bumps?
Adding a fiberglass topper shell would more than double the extras for your trips and provide a way with roof bars to carry kayaks or small boat. Inside provides space for camp chairs, bicycles, firewood, or pets. All the stuff you do not want in the cab or in the living space of the trailer.
A great accessory for towing a trailer is the Garmin RV 795 GPS. It can be set for the length of trailer you are towing and will route you accordingly to avoid problems with your much longer rig. At $460 and with lifetime map updates they are great. I find mine much easier to view and watch as I drive than a navigation display in the center of the dash that is much lower and requires taking my eyes off the road ahead. Easy to mount where it is out of the way with the suction clamp for the windshield. I mount mine at the lower left corner of the windshield so it is easy to monitor while driving.
I think my shocks are stock, original equipment.
My ride seems solid, no bouncing, etc, comfortably stiff?
What might I expect different if I go that way?
Now how are these adjustable?
Say would I stiffen them up with the trailer hooked up, less dipping on the rear going over bumps?
If those are really the OEM shocks, I think you might be shocked at how much better the ride is when you replace them.
I run the Rancho 9000XL shocks on lower settings (there is a dial on each shock) when unloaded and higher when loaded. What prompted the change from OEM shocks at ~5,000 miles was a stretch of interstate with my wife riding shotgun. She was not happy with the ride and gave immediate authorization to make a change. While most porpoising problems are due to WDH configuration, if the front shocks are weak that can contribute to it.
If those are really the OEM shocks, I think you might be shocked at how much better the ride is when you replace them.
I run the Rancho 9000XL shocks on lower settings (there is a dial on each shock) when unloaded and higher when loaded. What prompted the change from OEM shocks at ~5,000 miles was a stretch of interstate with my wife riding shotgun. She was not happy with the ride and gave immediate authorization to make a change. While most porpoising problems are due to WDH configuration, if the front shocks are weak that can contribute to it.
Is this a do it yourself job?
Looking at the shock options, I see what i believe is ones the raise the truck, lift, yes?
I don't want it any higher. Do I need to measure my current shocks to see what the "height" is now if I was to buy these?
Yeah, reading about post regarding shocks, I wonder if I am missing out on performance as I don't have anything to compare it to, nor do I really have a compliant to what I have now.
I have no issues with porpoising, as my hitch is set up fine.
Pretty easy to DIY. Wrenches, sockets and a torque wrench are recommended. You don't have to lift the truck off the ground or remove the tires, but removing the tires on the front makes it a little easier to access the shock.
Shocks do not provide any lift. Shocks are made for 0" to 2" of lift, meaning that if you're OEM, that will fit. It you have a 2" level kit, it will fit. If you have a 4" lift, you need a different model in the 9000XL series.
If you're hesitant about buying new shocks, pull one of the rear shocks off and see how easily/hard it compresses and expands. It should be stiff in both directions. If there are any traces of oil on the shock, it's toast.
Pretty easy to DIY. Wrenches, sockets and a torque wrench are recommended. You don't have to lift the truck off the ground or remove the tires, but removing the tires on the front makes it a little easier to access the shock.
Shocks do not provide any lift. Shocks are made for 0" to 2" of lift, meaning that if you're OEM, that will fit. It you have a 2" level kit, it will fit. If you have a 4" lift, you need a different model in the 9000XL series.
If you're hesitant about buying new shocks, pull one of the rear shocks off and see how easily/hard it compresses and expands. It should be stiff in both directions. If there are any traces of oil on the shock, it's toast.
Oh that makes sense.
Looking at a few YouTubers and it seems pretty straight forward.
Well I know as fact these shocks have 60k on them as that what I have put on the truck since I purchased it.
I guess I would just go with the basic no lift shock then, or would I need to measure upper and lower bolt spread to be certain.
Can you tell by the picture if my truck is stock height?
Thanks for all your help!
Can you tell by the picture if my truck is stock height?
Looks stock, or close to stock to me. I don't think you need anything but the 0"-2" shocks. Make sure you order ones for your specific year. The 2017+ rear shocks use a different mount than 2011-2016.
Looks stock, or close to stock to me. I don't think you need anything but the 0"-2" shocks. Make sure you order ones for your specific year. The 2017+ rear shocks use a different mount than 2011-2016.
Thanks.
I pulled my older, longer trailer in some really bad cross winds last year, and was surprised how well the trailer stayed behind me, never once had to fight the wheel, etc.
That trailer had spread axles, not sure how much stability that adds, my new trailer is the standard spread, 6 feet shorter, and almost a foot taller, but weighs about the same with 200 more pounds of hitch weight.
Leaving soon on the first trip of the year, it will be my 3ed trip overall in this trailer.
When I pulled it home from the dealer last year, I recall how much better it tracked than my old trailer, as I pulled that one in as a trade in.
I was surprised to find they had left my freshwater tank full, after testing all systems, I couldn't tell by pulling it.
I do have a 2 point round bar Equalizer WDH, was thinking about maybe getting a 4 point, but it just might be overkilll....not sure.
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