Too much EtOH down the intake manifold, perhaps???

 

Thank you for pointing out all of my spelling erors.
You must be an english teacher?
Are you are on the right form? This site is for people looking for help repairing their Ford vehicles.

 

I'm not an English teacher but, as Austin Powers said, I'm English. I'm in good form, thank you. Being an immigrant myself, I should be more tolerant to those for whom English might not be the first language.

Ergo Happy Thanksgiving!

It sounds as though you still haven't pulled codes from the computer. You don't need a fancy tester to do this; you can use the check engine light. Take a look at the "sticky" posts to see how to do this.

 

I think we can do without the petty criticisms, however good-intentioned they may well be. I'll admit I have to work at checking my spelling and grammar on these inputs and MOST of my errors are TYPOs, since I've never taking a typing course. I almost always find it necessary to go back and edit out such errors in my responses. Luckily for people like me there IS that option. And since it doesn't look like this excruciatingly antiquated "QWERTY" keyboard layout is ever going to be updated to match the capabilities of the 21st century technology, I guess we'll all have to learn to deal with them as they are.

As far as the "fuel pump relay and how its related to the ECU (pin-22)" problem, I think were "barking up the RIGHT tree" in most cases, by focusing on the ECU/EEC-IV module. I have to wonder if you (Little old Bronco) got a new/refurbished unit or one taken from a salvage vehicle. (I think you said it's "new".) Since the ECU is the SOLE controller of the fuel pump relay (except when connected to a diagnostic computer at the VIP connector), I HAVE to think the problem is going to be found looking in that area.

The way the wiring running to/from the ECU is routed next to the right engine compartment wall, unless the vehicle has been hit in the right-front quarter area, there's hardly the likelihood of problems occurring over time between the Fuel Pump relay and the EEC/IV module. However, I noticed on the '88, the wiring running over and through the engine, DOES consistently rub against metal engine parts in places, and thus eventually might short to ground in those areas. That's probably why I rerouted that wiring up against the top of the firewall when I changed my '84 over from the 2.8L-2BBL to the '88 2.9L-EFI.

You asked about a "Speed Limiter". It seems there is some sort of incorporated RPM Limiter, but that shouldn't go into effect until the engine reaches or exceeds about 6000 rpm.

There may however, be other engine protection systems in place, such as one that checks Oil Pressure. Since the oil pressure is virtually nil when cranking, the ECU would have to provide power to the fuel delivery system when the ignition switch is first turned "On". That might provide enough fuel for the engine to run for a few seconds. Then when the ECU receives the "No Oil Pressure" signal, it might take steps to shut down the system. The best way would be to stop fuel delivery, since just killing the ignition would allow unburned fuel to pass into the exhaust system creating a host of potential hazards, including damage to the Catalytic Converters. Unfortunately, I'm not able to confirm this on the '87.

The Ignition System receives a signal from the pickup in the distributor through pin 56 on the EEC connector. If that became open or shorted to ground, the EEC may again shut down the fuel delivery system, but not until after the engine was cranking. You should hear the pump(s) running when the Key is first turned to the "On" position. Since the EEC cannot "know" when to fire the Ignition coil without that signal, you won't get any spark either.

Temporarily, and I ADVISE JUST FOR TEST PURPOSES, you could put a jumper on the VIP connector (C198), thereby grounding the Fuel Pump relay coil, so you can try to run the engine long enough, hopefully, to find the source of your problem. In case you're not familiar, the VIP test connector is a trapeziodal-shaped 6-pin connector found in the vicinity of the fuel pump and EEC relays. It may be "plugged into" a dummy receptacle, (to protect the electrical contacts) sometimes attached to the fender wall. It has two rows of pins, one row of 2 pins, the other with 4.

Look for the light brown wire ("Fuel-pump Relay Coil [-]" - may have an orange stripe) and the gray wire ("EEC Ground" - might have a red stripe). Use your test meter to confirm those pathways. Build a short jumper with 1/4" male spade connectors on each end, to get the best results.

I'll think about this one a little more. Maybe something else will come to mind.

One more thing: Whenever troublshooting fuel and/or ignition related problems, always keep the "Fire Brigade" on duty nearby!

 

Thanks for the help, Hooked on 4WD
Believe me I’m not here to get into a pissing match with anyone and I apologize if my spelling or grammar has offended anyone. Maybe I should take more care with my typing.

Anyway, back to the subject at hand.
When I replaced the stator I had the plenum off the intake so I pulled the under hood wiring harness completely out of the truck, unwrapped it and checked all the wires form the ECM plug to the end. All tested good.
As for the ECM it was a refurbished one from Car Quest (Local auto parts dealer here in Canada) as Ford has discontinued it.
I have tried installing the jumper wire you mentioned. The fuel pumps ran but I had no pulse at the injectors as the motor turned over. Although if I sprayed gas in the throttle body it fired until it burned off
I have tested the injector wiring by applying ground to the starting process plug with the tan-red & Lt-grn-wht wires and the use of a noid light. All tested good.

A mechanic friend of mine insists it’s the in tank fuel pump. But I’m finding this hard to swallow because it and the high pressure pump run when the relay is pulled in.

Anything else you can think of would be a great help.

Thanks again Little old Bronco

 

This thread has been virtually all 'over the place', making it hard to keep up with what's been tested and eliminated in this troubleshooting process. But it sounds like just about everything electrical has been eliminated as being the fault by now.

Since the engine will run by manually adding fuel with the air being drawn into it, the Ignition pickup in the distributor, the ignition-related control electronics in the ECC/EEC-IV, the ignition coil and its timing, all have to be in good working order.

Apparently, at this point, there's either not enough fuel being added to the air being drawn in, or none is at all. 'Not enough' could occur if there's a SEVERE intake manifold leak, such as an open vacuum fitting somewhere. Whereas 'none at all' would mean a problem somewhere in the fuel delivery system.

And since the fuel pumps DO run, but none seems to be making through the injectors, the problem probably has to do with insufficient pressure in the system between the second-stage pump and the injectors.

The way the pressure regulater module (mounted on the rear area of the fuel plenum, atop the injectors) works, its failure is most apt to cause an EXCESS of fuel to be delivered to the injectors, almost never an insufficient amount.

That only leaves a second-stage (high-pressure) pump failure, a severely clogged fuel filter, or an obstruction in the fuel lines between that pump and the filter, or the filter and the injectors.

The OEM (garter-spring retention) fittings are similar to what's used in vehicle air conditioning systems, and require a special tool to release the spring. Some auto parts stores sell that tool, but the more you pay, the less trouble you'll have using the one you buy. Each fitting has two "O"-rings sealing them. Be sure to lube them a little when reconnecting them, and be mindful of dirt while they're loose, or there's the possibility of getting the injectors clogged. When disconnecting, pull gently but consistently while wiggling them in a motion like breaking a stick. Eventually and usually suddenly, the seals will let go. Wear safety goggles/glasses and be ready to catch spilling fuel.

In addition, I've heard of fuel filters becoming clogged enough to kill an engine, shortly after its tank was filled at a station where, either during or shortly after a tanker had refilled the station's holding tanks. Sediment inevitably accumulates in those tanks. It stays settled in the bottom, but can get loosened and suspended in the fuel temporarily during refilling. Service stations SHOULD have filters inside the pump housings to catch the stuff, but I wouldn't be surprised if the cheaper fuel stations don't maintain them, if they even have them in place at all.

The vehicle's filter replacement requires no special tools, only a great deal of time and patience and plenty of clean rags to catch fuel spillage and keep the fittings clean of dirt. An old toothbrush to remove built-up dirt where the lines attach to the filter would be useful, too. Replacement filters usually come with new retaining clips.

Other than that, I don't know what to tell you at this point. Hang in there! I believe you're getting close!

 

HURRAY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I’ve got the fuel pumps to run and the motor to start.
I got mad and unplugged everything. After I had all the main harnesses plugged back in the fuel pumps started to work when I turned the key on, then one at a time I plugged in each sensor and turned the key on. Until I plugged in the sensor that is located beside the throttle cable, it clips onto a bracket and has a rubber line that runs to the vicinity of the EGR valve. What is the name of this sensor? It’s black plastic and just clips into the bracket. It has one rubber line that runs from it and a Plug.

 

The way you described it, it sounds like it's either the Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor or the Barametric Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor, though I'm not sure about the location as described.

The MAF sensor has 4 wires going to it, three of which go to the ECC unit, pins 14, 15 and 60. The MAP sensor has 3 wires going to it, two of which go to the ECC, pins 26 and 45. Pin 26 also goes to the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS), mounted directly on the side of the throttle body, OPPOSITE the lever where the throttle cable is attached.

Either one could have been the cause of the problems you were having. Glad to hear you got it going, though!

Happy Trails!

 

Couldn't be a MAF sensor (unless it's aftermarket, '87 BII's ran a speed density system). MAP sensor is mounted to the firewall. Could be the TPS, though the TPS screws into place rather than clips. There's another sensor there that, when I called Ford to ask them what it was, they called it an "emissions sensor." (well duh). The guy behind the parts counter couldn't tell me what kind of emissions sensor it was.

 

Congrats, sounds like you are making some serious progress on this miserable thing. I think that sensor is the EGR pressure transducer. It should be wired O/W, BK/W & BR/LG. Your saying when you plug that one in it wont start? Maybe it's shorted internaly??

 

BTW the EGR pressure transducer is also called the PFE sensor.

 

Thanks to all for your help.

I phoned the ford dealer and gave them the number off of the sensor. They told me that it’s a EGR pressure sensor .They had one in stock for $181.00.
I got one from the auto wreckers for $5.00 plugged it in and the fuel pumps ran and the truck started. But the motor has no power and the Y pipe will glow red if I run the motor at a high idle (approx. 2000 rpm) for a minute or two. I am hoping that its just a set up thing from having the distributor out to replace the stator.
I’ll put the timing light on it tomorrow and check it out.

Thanks again!