Distributor Needed??
Logistics Pro
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 4,474
Likes: 972
From: Tri Cities, TN
Going by that picture. Either you actually have a 240 I6 or someone put the wrong distributor in it. That is a Load-O-Matic distributor. 300 I6's came with dual advance distributors. You need to sort that out. Either distributor is available rebuilt from any parts house. In either case you are better off with a dual advance.
If you don't have a shop manual now is the time to buy one. 99% of the parts for either engine are available at any parts house.
If you don't have a shop manual now is the time to buy one. 99% of the parts for either engine are available at any parts house.
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jan 2023
Posts: 110
Likes: 32
From: near Portland
Going by that picture. Either you actually have a 240 I6 or someone put the wrong distributor in it. That is a Load-O-Matic distributor. 300 I6's came with dual advance distributors. You need to sort that out. Either distributor is available rebuilt from any parts house. In either case you are better off with a dual advance.
If you don't have a shop manual now is the time to buy one. 99% of the parts for either engine are available at any parts house.
If you don't have a shop manual now is the time to buy one. 99% of the parts for either engine are available at any parts house.
ok. How do I know the difference between a 240 and a 300?
Logistics Pro
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 4,474
Likes: 972
From: Tri Cities, TN
Well, if it has a Load-O-Matic distributor 90% chance it's a 240. Might still have an ID tag on the coil mount. Check the stroke I can't remember what they are you can look them up they are in the shop manual. Pull a valve cover and get the casting number off of the head. The latter is iffy since the heads will interchange between a 240 and 300.
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jan 2023
Posts: 110
Likes: 32
From: near Portland
Well, if it has a Load-O-Matic distributor 90% chance it's a 240. Might still have an ID tag on the coil mount. Check the stroke I can't remember what they are you can look them up they are in the shop manual. Pull a valve cover and get the casting number off of the head. The latter is iffy since the heads will interchange between a 240 and 300.
Logistics Pro
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 4,474
Likes: 972
From: Tri Cities, TN
I just went to your first thread and looked at the pictures. You need to pull that valve cover before you do anything else. If it has been 5 years since that fire and if it was over 500 degrees for any period of time your valve springs are JUNK. And I wouldn't be surprised if you find a bunch of rusty parts under there. Also, there is no 2bbl carb that will work with a Load-O-Matic distributor. That thing had to have been running like crap with that combination.
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jan 2023
Posts: 110
Likes: 32
From: near Portland
I just went to your first thread and looked at the pictures. You need to pull that valve cover before you do anything else. If it has been 5 years since that fire and if it was over 500 degrees for any period of time your valve springs are JUNK. And I wouldn't be surprised if you find a bunch of rusty parts under there. Also, there is no 2bbl carb that will work with a Load-O-Matic distributor. That thing had to have been running like crap with that combination.
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Lead Gopher
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 10,066
Likes: 1,616
From: Seattle
There are also rubber valve stem seals that likely melted, too. If so, those should be replaced before trying to start the engine. Requires removing the valve springs as well so good time to check or just replace them. Don't drop a valve or you'll have to pull the head off. I'd also be a little suspicious of the rear main seal and timing cover seal. Might be worth pulling the engine and tearing it down for a good inspection.
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jan 2023
Posts: 110
Likes: 32
From: near Portland
There are also rubber valve stem seals that likely melted, too. If so, those should be replaced before trying to start the engine. Requires removing the valve springs as well so good time to check or just replace them. Don't drop a valve or you'll have to pull the head off. I'd also be a little suspicious of the rear main seal and timing cover seal. Might be worth pulling the engine and tearing it down for a good inspection.
Thank you! I may have bit off more than I can chew here if it comes to engine work.
Lead Gopher
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 10,066
Likes: 1,616
From: Seattle
Hard to know how hot it got, but the gaskets are all cork or rubber so things like the oil pan gasket, oil pump pickup tube gasket, etc. etc. could be compromised. Not only could it leak quite a bit, but portions of the gaskets could come off inside and get into the oil and travel through the engine lubrication system.
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jan 2023
Posts: 110
Likes: 32
From: near Portland
Hard to know how hot it got, but the gaskets are all cork or rubber so things like the oil pan gasket, oil pump pickup tube gasket, etc. etc. could be compromised. Not only could it leak quite a bit, but portions of the gaskets could come off inside and get into the oil and travel through the engine lubrication system.
Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 2,084
Likes: 94
From: Stanton, Michigan, USA
That makes sense. I'll look into it this weekend and post more pics for you to see. They it was running good before the fire. He only had it 6 months when he thinks the fuel pressure regulatorstarted leaking and dripped down and caught fire. I'm starting with that first, then I'll move to the engine. I can pull off the valve cover easily enough and take those pics and post them here.
BarnieTrk
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