When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
How much hassle is it to remove the front fenders?
I've got some work to do on the right side of the engine compartment; heater core, possibly a new blower motor, exhaust manifold(s), and new gaskets for intake and exh. It seems like those items might be easier to access w the right fender off, plus I've got a small amount of bodywork that l could do.
Before l start tearing my grill and trim off just for a look-see, l thougt I'd ask some of you who have done it before. Most GM cars are held together w 5 bolts, all easily accessible, takes about 10 min... are Ford trucks the same way or is it something that's only worthwhile when doing a complete teardown or replacement?
The answer: "Just do it and quit looking for shortcuts" isn't incorrect. But if l want to get this truck "done", l need to work smart.
"How much of a hassle is it to remove the front fenders?" Add hassle of rehanging. Some of the screws are going to strip and, or break. Be sure to note position of shims. The idents in them will aid in realignment.
The first time is the most difficult. After that, with know how and all good nuts and bolts it is much easier. A couple months ago I removed the driver's side inner fender to replace the parking brake cable. Simple because all the screws are new.
I know exactly what is involved because I just did it. Even so, with what you have planned I wouldn't.
Like was said, none of the work you have planned would warrant the fender be removed. Don't do too much body work on a front fender, you can get new ones for around $160 each.
You have a 300 motor if you are doing intake / exh manifold gasket?
For that I dont see the need to remove the fender unless you want more work.
Heater core (AC?) is done front inside I believe, blower motor and AC evap can also be worked on with the fender in place.
I have done all that work on my truck with the fender & hood installed and not hurt the paint.
It is not that hard to do all that work over the fender.
Use a fender cover so not to hurt the paint.
The other thing that is nice to have doing that work is the step that fits over the tire.
Plastic milk crates like to slip out from under you this will not.
Think I got mine from HF
Dave ----
You're right, l don't need to take off the fender, just figured it would gain me some access and working room (mostly the inner fender), especially in the (not unlikely) event that l snap a bolt or three messing w the exhaust.
The heater core and blower motor/fan are on the firewall, mush easier to get at than the older design (under the passenger side dash) and l don't have a/c. Shouldn't be a problem.
Pulling off the fender was an idle thought, one of many "what ifs" that pop into my mind as l stare through my rig's windshield for hours at a time. I only get home a couple days per week and most of that time is usually spoken-for... house, family, other vehicles, getting ready to hit the road again. That's why l try to plan my projects in advance, to better utilize what little time l have available to actually do the work.
In this case, I'll leave the fender in place unless l have to take it off for some reason in the future. I appreciate the candid responses
I have never done it, but have heard horror stories about replacing the underhood heater core. I have done the inside heater core and it's easy. It's not a early/late difference in heater core locations. The factory A/C equipped trucks had it inside behind the glove box, the non-A/C trucks like yours had it under the hood. Write in and tell us how the heater core thing went.
P.S. I hope the heater core is leaking, and that is why you want to replace it. This is not a "replace it just because" item, since the newer replacements are not made as well as the originals. When you go to replace the heater hoses on ANY vehicle, always use a knife and slit and cut them off, never twist them off or use pliers. Its very easy to twist the pipe out of the heater core or crack it, and cause it to leak. I found this out the hard way.
I also heard the cores dont always fit as they should.
I bought one a few weeks ago because when I have the heat on I get a smell, mouse pee from not washing it good enough?, but not really coolant smell.
I also was getting some inside window fogging, another sign of a bad core but no wetness on the floor and no fog all the time so I am holding off on the change out.
Because the manifold uses bolts and not studs and think there is less heat on the bolts in the head, they come right out.
At least mine did and have not heard of any others having issues.
Because I went with EFI EXH manifolds I am using studs and nuts with the thick stock washers.
Dave ----
If you replace the heater core it's a good idea to keep the old one on hand. Never know if parts for our old Bullnose trucks might stop being supported. If you have an old heater core (or radiator for that matter) you can always get them recored in the future.
I'm getting the typical windshield fogging, that's why I'm replacing or fixing (if possible) the heater core. If l don't do it fairly soon, spring will be here and I'll put it off until the cold weather comes back. Then I'll need it and it'll still be broke...
I've brazed and soldered radiators before, not sure if l can do the same w a leaky heater core. But for the reason(s) mentioned above (new parts generally suck), thats what l hope to do. Most people don't because it's kinda like rebuilding a brake cylinder... replacements are cheap enough to not have to bother with it.
I'll be using this R and R to rebuild the heater box, replace bad seals, clean everything out, etc. I think the system has been inop for a lot of years so there's probably some bad juju in there.