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I was looking at those yesterday, but the CCV box stays in place and it mounts where the S&S filter mounts. I may wait a bit as I may want to remove the top of engine filter and put the SPE filter kit in after I see some reviews. Then there is plenty of room to mount this can.
There's enough slack in the hoses to bend around and behind the S&S filter I figure. I covered the stainless hose mender and clamps with cable loom to protect the filter from rubbing once the DPK is installed.
Emptied the can yesterday... 375 miles out and 55 ml of water plus the goop.
The piece of 2×6 that sits on top of the electrical box on driver's side. There's a piece of old rubber hose on the fender to prevent the can from rattling when the truck is moving.
Can I ask, at what mileage are most of you doing this? I'm thinking about any warranty issues that might arise, but at the same time, I feel the earlier the better.
I believe I installed the can around 40k miles, 41k miles to be exact. I now have almost 104k miles. My warranty expires this December. Have the 7 year / 125k mile extended warranty.
Chances of a CC causing a warranty issue are slim to none, so first week off the lot you can put one on. Contemplating on whether to do this before May or after our Texas trip.
hey @Overkill2 don't forget the oil fill cap. I'm guessing that's because you have the FS2000 and you started it once without the cap in place? I have almost done that with my truck too. I'm sure that would make a nice mess.
hey @Overkill2 don't forget the oil fill cap. I'm guessing that's because you have the FS2000 and you started it once without the cap in place? I have almost done that with my truck too. I'm sure that would make a nice mess.
Yep... The knucklehead that I am, I did it before not once but twice!! That's why the masking tape is there with "Hey *********, don't forget the oil fill cap." The tape is yellow on the plastic piece on the firewall...
Anyways, it's a non-issue now because the can sits on top of the electrical box... My S&S DPK kit will mount where the can WAS. I would have to take off the FS2500 oil return/fill cap to remove the catch can bottom to drain it...
PS I don't recommend cleaning the filter element, which is a sponge, because the original can I bought, I removed the filter element from the can like shown and washed it gently with Dawn dishwashing soap. Well, I can't remember if it fell apart after one wash or two, but it did. I had to get the can replaced under warranty because they don't sell just the filter elements.
The replacement can, I removed the filter element housing and kept the filter inside the housing. I washed it once, with Dawn, real gentle. And it started to fall apart again.
So I had to pay a small fee, not much and would have to check my receipts as I save all that, but they sent out another can.
So now I will not clean the filter element again... I learned my lesson. Just wish they sold replacement filter elements. Maybe in the future... maybe they will update and upgrade the element to stainless steel mesh like some aftermarket reusable engine oil filters...
My truck has the serviceable CCV filter. I thought about replacing it with the cheese grater and catch can, but the YouTube video of an install that showed smoke coming from the tube convinced me to keep the OEM stuff and simply replace the filter. Dieselfiltersonline.com got a new filter to me in two days. It cost less than 100 bucks and took about an hour to change all told. It would have probably taken 15 minutes if I'd had one of those Milwaukee cordless 1/4" drivers instead of a regular socket and ratchet.
After 300K miles my old filter was black and swollen, though not as bad as the one I saw on YouTube. I'm sure it's never been changed before and I feel much better now that I have a new one in place.
My driving has slowed drastically over the last two or three years, and I doubt I'll exceed 50K per year from here on out, so $100.00 every two or three years isn't bad at all really, and I think it's one of those things that is better for the environment and doesn't negatively impact the reliability or performance of the engine in any appreciable way.
By the by, those things are horrible as engine oil filters. But they are *fantastic* coolant filters. I make my own coolant filtration setup with those.
My truck has the serviceable CCV filter. I thought about replacing it with the cheese grater and catch can, but the YouTube video of an install that showed smoke coming from the tube convinced me to keep the OEM stuff and simply replace the filter. Dieselfiltersonline.com got a new filter to me in two days. It cost less than 100 bucks and took about an hour to change all told. It would have probably taken 15 minutes if I'd had one of those Milwaukee cordless 1/4" drivers instead of a regular socket and ratchet.
After 300K miles my old filter was black and swollen, though not as bad as the one I saw on YouTube. I'm sure it's never been changed before and I feel much better now that I have a new one in place.
My driving has slowed drastically over the last two or three years, and I doubt I'll exceed 50K per year from here on out, so $100.00 every two or three years isn't bad at all really, and I think it's one of those things that is better for the environment and doesn't negatively impact the reliability or performance of the engine in any appreciable way.
I've heard of cases where those filters have caused issues under 50k miles... caused the crankcase to develop excessive pressure which I believe caused the infamous oil pan leak these trucks have...
Or you could just replace the whole thing with a sealed, non-serviceable box when it comes time around the mileage you think you're happy with to replace the filter..
By the by, those things are horrible as engine oil filters. But they are *fantastic* coolant filters. I make my own coolant filtration setup with those.
No I'm good with a conventional style oil filter... you run a built not bought coolant filter on yours?
No I'm good with a conventional style oil filter... you run a built not bought coolant filter on yours?
I put a coolant filter on just about everything now, though I haven't put one together yet on my 6.7. It's in the cards this spring. You basically take one of those 30 micron "washable oil filters" and an oil filter relocation kit, and plumb it between the inlet of the heater core and the block. I'll make a bracket for whatever vehicle I'm installing it on and some 10AN fittings with heater hose and split loom always looks pretty clean.
Here's a setup I made for my 7.3
It's all chinesium stuff but there's also no moving parts and just o-ring and AN seals so reliability isn't a concern.
I put a coolant filter on just about everything now, though I haven't put one together yet on my 6.7. It's in the cards this spring. You basically take one of those 30 micron "washable oil filters" and an oil filter relocation kit, and plumb it between the inlet of the heater core and the block. I'll make a bracket for whatever vehicle I'm installing it on and some 10AN fittings with heater hose and split loom always looks pretty clean.
Here's a setup I made for my 7.3
It's all chinesium stuff but there's also no moving parts and just o-ring and AN seals so reliability isn't a concern.
My truck has the serviceable CCV filter. I thought about replacing it with the cheese grater and catch can, but the YouTube video of an install that showed smoke coming from the tube convinced me to keep the OEM stuff and simply replace the filter. Dieselfiltersonline.com got a new filter to me in two days. It cost less than 100 bucks and took about an hour to change all told. It would have probably taken 15 minutes if I'd had one of those Milwaukee cordless 1/4" drivers instead of a regular socket and ratchet.
After 300K miles my old filter was black and swollen, though not as bad as the one I saw on YouTube. I'm sure it's never been changed before and I feel much better now that I have a new one in place.
My driving has slowed drastically over the last two or three years, and I doubt I'll exceed 50K per year from here on out, so $100.00 every two or three years isn't bad at all really, and I think it's one of those things that is better for the environment and doesn't negatively impact the reliability or performance of the engine in any appreciable way.
My concept replaces the OEM CCV box with the cheesegrator so captured oil returns to the pan, and all the gasses that escape would go through the catch can and return to the intake oil and water free, only combustion gasses would be sucked in then and not vented to the atmosphere. Some guys to the vent out the back, some guys do the CC only, I want to do both and keep the Intake clean without stinking things up.
My concept replaces the OEM CCV box with the cheesegrator so captured oil returns to the pan, and all the gasses that escape would go through the catch can and return to the intake oil and water free, only combustion gasses would be sucked in then and not vented to the atmosphere. Some guys to the vent out the back, some guys do the CC only, I want to do both and keep the Intake clean without stinking things up.
What ever happened with this? You ever do anything with your idea?
My plans are to disconnect the tube (from the ccv box) and plug the inlet at the turbo, then reroute the oem discharge hose (from oem ccv) to the back of the truck with a home made extension. Call it a poor mans ccv mod, lol
03-29-2023, 05:08 AM
