Inline amp installation
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Cross-Country
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 84
Likes: 38
From: Socialist State of WA
Inline amp installation
Any advice for installing an inline amp behind the dash of my 2022 XLT? The speaker upgrade looks very straightforward but locating and wiring in the amp has me a bit concerned. I have the equipment recommendations from Crutchfield's. I am looking at the Alpine KTP-445U amplifier that will tie directly into the audio power supply.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Oct 2022
Posts: 1,820
Likes: 895
From: Dallas Metroplex
I took a look at that model amp on Crutchfield's site, and there was a link on that page to a newer model amp, the KTA-450 (which is 50W RMS, slightly more than the older KTP-445U).
The configuration widget on the page stated that it was compatible with the OEM head unit in my 2020 XLT, but no further information regarding connector adapters, etc.. And, I have absolutely no idea if the OEM head unit has just speaker-level outputs or RCA outputs (or both). Irrespective, it sounds like the head unit will have to be removed to wire up the amp, so researching just how to do so sounds beneficial. If anything, this would be the amp I'd like use. Thanks for the idea, and the heads up for the Alpine amp.
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_500KTA...ower-Pack.html
Edit: Well, after saving the KTA-450 to the cart for future consideration, there was a notice stating that "this amp will NOT work in a vehicle with an active factory amplifier". Which begs the question, is that a feature that the OEM head unit has that can be disabled (or, configured for either on or off)? Man, I wish I knew more about the head units that Ford puts in the truck... I imagine it's the same situation with the KTP-445U.
The configuration widget on the page stated that it was compatible with the OEM head unit in my 2020 XLT, but no further information regarding connector adapters, etc.. And, I have absolutely no idea if the OEM head unit has just speaker-level outputs or RCA outputs (or both). Irrespective, it sounds like the head unit will have to be removed to wire up the amp, so researching just how to do so sounds beneficial. If anything, this would be the amp I'd like use. Thanks for the idea, and the heads up for the Alpine amp.
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_500KTA...ower-Pack.html
Edit: Well, after saving the KTA-450 to the cart for future consideration, there was a notice stating that "this amp will NOT work in a vehicle with an active factory amplifier". Which begs the question, is that a feature that the OEM head unit has that can be disabled (or, configured for either on or off)? Man, I wish I knew more about the head units that Ford puts in the truck... I imagine it's the same situation with the KTP-445U.
More Turbo
Joined: Jun 2022
Posts: 520
Likes: 317
I took a look at that model amp on Crutchfield's site, and there was a link on that page to a newer model amp, the KTA-450 (which is 50W RMS, slightly more than the older KTP-445U).
The configuration widget on the page stated that it was compatible with the OEM head unit in my 2020 XLT, but no further information regarding connector adapters, etc.. And, I have absolutely no idea if the OEM head unit has just speaker-level outputs or RCA outputs (or both). Irrespective, it sounds like the head unit will have to be removed to wire up the amp, so researching just how to do so sounds beneficial. If anything, this would be the amp I'd like use. Thanks for the idea, and the heads up for the Alpine amp.
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_500KTA...ower-Pack.html
Edit: Well, after saving the KTA-450 to the cart for future consideration, there was a notice stating that "this amp will NOT work in a vehicle with an active factory amplifier". Which begs the question, is that a feature that the OEM head unit has that can be disabled (or, configured for either on or off)? Man, I wish I knew more about the head units that Ford puts in the truck... I imagine it's the same situation with the KTP-445U.
The configuration widget on the page stated that it was compatible with the OEM head unit in my 2020 XLT, but no further information regarding connector adapters, etc.. And, I have absolutely no idea if the OEM head unit has just speaker-level outputs or RCA outputs (or both). Irrespective, it sounds like the head unit will have to be removed to wire up the amp, so researching just how to do so sounds beneficial. If anything, this would be the amp I'd like use. Thanks for the idea, and the heads up for the Alpine amp.
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_500KTA...ower-Pack.html
Edit: Well, after saving the KTA-450 to the cart for future consideration, there was a notice stating that "this amp will NOT work in a vehicle with an active factory amplifier". Which begs the question, is that a feature that the OEM head unit has that can be disabled (or, configured for either on or off)? Man, I wish I knew more about the head units that Ford puts in the truck... I imagine it's the same situation with the KTP-445U.
I had to splice at the audio control module outputs for the front speakers for my high level inputs on kicker hideaway 10. I have a Ford wiring diagram. I removed each pin (at the audio control harness) for the front speakers, removed some sheathing, soldered splices, added heat shrink, put in pins back in the connector and wrapped the wiring with Tesa tape like from factory. With just the 4 splices the harness was starting to become unwieldy.
With my experience, I'd try to locate a harness for an inline amp if you choose to go that route.
5th Wheeling
Joined: Jul 2021
Posts: 36
Likes: 13
https://plugnplaykits.com/collection...41430560178366
I have their kit 11 and kit 4 that I purchased about a year apart to add a sub and a Kicker key amp behind the radio. Both were a plug and play and a very painless install. The Kicker key amp fits perfectly behind the 8 in screen. There are kits on there for just about everything including the harness to add non Kicker amps. I'm in a 2022 xlt.
I have their kit 11 and kit 4 that I purchased about a year apart to add a sub and a Kicker key amp behind the radio. Both were a plug and play and a very painless install. The Kicker key amp fits perfectly behind the 8 in screen. There are kits on there for just about everything including the harness to add non Kicker amps. I'm in a 2022 xlt.
More Turbo
Joined: Jun 2022
Posts: 520
Likes: 317
https://plugnplaykits.com/collection...41430560178366
I have their kit 11 and kit 4 that I purchased about a year apart to add a sub and a Kicker key amp behind the radio. Both were a plug and play and a very painless install. The Kicker key amp fits perfectly behind the 8 in screen. There are kits on there for just about everything including the harness to add non Kicker amps. I'm in a 2022 xlt.
I have their kit 11 and kit 4 that I purchased about a year apart to add a sub and a Kicker key amp behind the radio. Both were a plug and play and a very painless install. The Kicker key amp fits perfectly behind the 8 in screen. There are kits on there for just about everything including the harness to add non Kicker amps. I'm in a 2022 xlt.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Oct 2022
Posts: 1,820
Likes: 895
From: Dallas Metroplex
OEM XLT audio control module has speaker level outputs. Full range output for front speakers. Rear speaker range is bass limited. Front tweeters have a capacitor and are wired parallel to front door speakers. Unless you are savvy and know how to solder well, depin harnesses, and have access to wiring diagrams I would not try to alter stock wiring. The audio control module output wires are hard to reach in the dash.
How difficult is it to remove the head unit? Any gotchas to watch out for, or any videos showing how to disassemble the dash pieces to get to it?
More Turbo
Joined: Jun 2022
Posts: 520
Likes: 317
Thanks for the confirmation that OEM is only speaker level outputs, that clears things up greatly. It's too bad that it doesn't provide low level outputs, but it is what it is (an OEM basic head unit). I'm pretty good with soldering wiring, so guess there's no alternative (as those connector kits are pricey, and not really worth it to me).
How difficult is it to remove the head unit? Any gotchas to watch out for, or any videos showing how to disassemble the dash pieces to get to it?
How difficult is it to remove the head unit? Any gotchas to watch out for, or any videos showing how to disassemble the dash pieces to get to it?
It's fairly easy to remove the head unit. The toughest part is removing the storage tray in the dash. You'll need some soft plastic trim pullers and be mindful that the plastics you'll be dealing with are varying hardness, it's easy to make scratches that will be visible forever, consider painters tape to protect dash. First pull the speaker grille, remove the two 7mm bolts below speaker grille, then tug towards the roof (pull hard) to release the 3 rear facing clips holding the tray to the climate bezel, with tray removed then remove the 2 7mm bolts holding the bezel to the dash, pop out bezel, and undo the two hvac and sync connectors, Lastly the audio control module is the bare steel box held on with 4 7mm bolts. all the connections are on the back of the audio control module. check out youtube for some videos, same removal process as 2015-2020 F150s. Those videos may or may not detail removal of the audio control module.
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Oct 2022
Posts: 1,820
Likes: 895
From: Dallas Metroplex
I did locate what I think I've been looking for, which was a simple harness setup:
What I'll have to do is identify the outgoing speaker wires on the harness, cut them and replace them with the soldered outputs from the amplifier (using the existing wiring to the speakers, instead of running new wires) That's actually going to be the real challenge, discovering which wires go to which speakers.
Sounds like you went the route where you ran your own wires from the amp to the speakers, correct? And, bypassed the factory wiring?
Edit: I just realized that I hijacked the OP's thread, sorry!! I hope that all that's been discussed thus far is helpful, as it is to me, immensely!
What I'll have to do is identify the outgoing speaker wires on the harness, cut them and replace them with the soldered outputs from the amplifier (using the existing wiring to the speakers, instead of running new wires) That's actually going to be the real challenge, discovering which wires go to which speakers.
Sounds like you went the route where you ran your own wires from the amp to the speakers, correct? And, bypassed the factory wiring?
Edit: I just realized that I hijacked the OP's thread, sorry!! I hope that all that's been discussed thus far is helpful, as it is to me, immensely!
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More Turbo
Joined: Jun 2022
Posts: 520
Likes: 317
I did locate what I think I've been looking for, which was a simple harness setup: https://www.amazon.com/Mallofusa-Sub.../dp/B093Q8LLFC
What I'll have to do is identify the outgoing speaker wires on the harness, cut them and replace them with the soldered outputs from the amplifier (using the existing wiring to the speakers, instead of running new wires) That's actually going to be the real challenge, discovering which wires go to which speakers.
Sounds like you went the route where you ran your own wires from the amp to the speakers, correct? And, bypassed the factory wiring?
Edit: I just realized that I hijacked the OP's thread, sorry!! I hope that all that's been discussed thus far is helpful, as it is to me, immensely!
What I'll have to do is identify the outgoing speaker wires on the harness, cut them and replace them with the soldered outputs from the amplifier (using the existing wiring to the speakers, instead of running new wires) That's actually going to be the real challenge, discovering which wires go to which speakers.
Sounds like you went the route where you ran your own wires from the amp to the speakers, correct? And, bypassed the factory wiring?
Edit: I just realized that I hijacked the OP's thread, sorry!! I hope that all that's been discussed thus far is helpful, as it is to me, immensely!
I did not bypass factory wiring. I spliced into factory wiring and ran the splices to behind the back seat. Basically, the high input for my subwoofer is ran parallel to front door speakers.
Edit: I did exactly what kit 6 does in the plug and play link above. except I just carefully and methodically spliced into my factory harness by removing the 4 pins from the connector, soldering, heat shrinking splices and reinserted pins. I then ran my custom harness to a 4 pin plug behind the glovebox from there the remainder of the harness runs to the back seat.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Oct 2022
Posts: 1,820
Likes: 895
From: Dallas Metroplex
Ah, I see. Thanks for the link to the head unit, so that's what mine looks like, eh? Ok, then, I'll see if I can find the two square connectors (I'm assuming for right and left pairs).
Thanks again for your background experience with all this, much appreciated, BTW!
Thanks again for your background experience with all this, much appreciated, BTW!
More Turbo
Joined: Jun 2022
Posts: 520
Likes: 317
No worries. All the speaker out circuits are on one plug. you just need to find a harness that has a male and female square plug.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Oct 2022
Posts: 1,820
Likes: 895
From: Dallas Metroplex
Man, difficult to find simple square socket adapters. But, I might've hit paydirt (although expensive paydirt):
Does this look like the sockets you encountered? Listing states it's for 2020+ units, and it does have two square socket plugs.
Edit: Well, crap. Looks like this won't work, according to their statement: " No factory external amp/no premium system Made for Ford: E-Series 2021;; EcoSport 2020-2021;; Escape 2020-2021;; F-250/F-350/F-450/F-550 2020-2021;; Transit 2020-2021;; Transit Connect 2020-2021"
Unless I want to spring for this just to cannibalize the connectors, which is unnecessarily expensive... Well, back to searching for connectors.
Does this look like the sockets you encountered? Listing states it's for 2020+ units, and it does have two square socket plugs.
Edit: Well, crap. Looks like this won't work, according to their statement: " No factory external amp/no premium system Made for Ford: E-Series 2021;; EcoSport 2020-2021;; Escape 2020-2021;; F-250/F-350/F-450/F-550 2020-2021;; Transit 2020-2021;; Transit Connect 2020-2021"
Unless I want to spring for this just to cannibalize the connectors, which is unnecessarily expensive... Well, back to searching for connectors.
Thread Starter
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Cross-Country
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 84
Likes: 38
From: Socialist State of WA
Great information! I added the Ford T-harness (PAC-LPHFD31) to my cart for $59.99. Expensive but will simplify and speedup my installation. I was not looking forward to cutting factory wires.
More Turbo
Joined: Jun 2022
Posts: 520
Likes: 317
Man, difficult to find simple square socket adapters. But, I might've hit paydirt (although expensive paydirt): https://www.amazon.com/ASC-Audio-Sub.../dp/B0B3V1ZD7P
Does this look like the sockets you encountered? Listing states it's for 2020+ units, and it does have two square socket plugs.
Edit: Well, crap. Looks like this won't work, according to their statement: " No factory external amp/no premium system Made for Ford: E-Series 2021;; EcoSport 2020-2021;; Escape 2020-2021;; F-250/F-350/F-450/F-550 2020-2021;; Transit 2020-2021;; Transit Connect 2020-2021"
Unless I want to spring for this just to cannibalize the connectors, which is unnecessarily expensive... Well, back to searching for connectors.
Does this look like the sockets you encountered? Listing states it's for 2020+ units, and it does have two square socket plugs.
Edit: Well, crap. Looks like this won't work, according to their statement: " No factory external amp/no premium system Made for Ford: E-Series 2021;; EcoSport 2020-2021;; Escape 2020-2021;; F-250/F-350/F-450/F-550 2020-2021;; Transit 2020-2021;; Transit Connect 2020-2021"
Unless I want to spring for this just to cannibalize the connectors, which is unnecessarily expensive... Well, back to searching for connectors.
Looks right to me, I'd bet money that will work. XLTs do not have a factory external amp and do not have the B&O premium sound system. I see nothing alarming about this.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Oct 2022
Posts: 1,820
Likes: 895
From: Dallas Metroplex
The connectors on the Amazon harness looked to be proper, based upon that earlier fleaBay link you provided that showed the head unit connectors. Well, I might just grab the Amazon harness. But first, I really should identify which system I actually have. Thanks