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1955 F600 Engine Seized

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Old Jan 21, 2023 | 06:36 AM
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1955 F600 Engine Seized

Hi all, I finally got my project truck home. First off I tried to turn the engine over from the front end but it’s a no go. Wasn’t sure how long of a persuader to put on it. Didn’t want to break the bolt off. I’ll look for a spot to try from the flywheel if I can get more leverage there without breaking anything. I’ve loosened all the spark plugs, thankfully without breaking any. I know there are lots of home remedies for what to pour in the cylinders to try and free them up. I’d like to hear some ideas.

What have you all tried pouring in there that worked?

Also, can anyone ID this engine size with certainty? I have no VIN number in the glove box or on the right frame rail as others have suggested here. Not even sure what I have exactly.

Thanks,
Wernher






 
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Old Jan 21, 2023 | 09:00 AM
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Try Marvel Mystery Oil or Kroil Lube.
 
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Old Jan 21, 2023 | 09:14 AM
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Welcome to the forum.

Also, can anyone ID this engine size with certainty?


As you probably know, it is of the Y block family. The fan set up would indicate it is most likely an original stock 239 CID but could be a few sizes up thru 312. If memory serves me right the Y block sizes were 239, 255, 272, 292, and 312.
 
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Old Jan 21, 2023 | 10:12 AM
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Welcome to the forum! Seeing that you're in Canada, and assuming you have a Canadian built truck, the rules can be different on some things from US production. For your frame serial number, you might check the left frame rail, near the steering box. That's where they put it on the earlier trucks. I have no idea if it may be different by '55. It's worth a shot. Keep in mind your serial number will be a totally different format from US production, too.


 
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Old Jan 21, 2023 | 10:58 AM
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I used half ATF and half diesel fuel. Soak one week. use a torque wrench to limit the force on the front bolt. Try turning both directions until you get some wiggle room. Don't give up.
 
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Old Jan 21, 2023 | 10:58 AM
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Wow. Thanks for the fast replies. I’ve never rebuilt a truck before but looking forward to it. Thanks for the information. I think it might make sense to pull all the belts off the front also so I’m not trying to turn a seized water pump or generator too.
 
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Old Jan 21, 2023 | 11:29 AM
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I’ll look for a spot to try from the flywheel if I can get more leverage there without breaking anything.

This./\ Beings that this is a "big" truck, you should have plenty of room to remove the flywheel dust cover and turn the engine.

 
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Old Jan 21, 2023 | 07:35 PM
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I put diesel in the cylinders and would turn it a little every few days. Eventually I could get it to go all the way around.

that looks to be a 239. The high fan mount water pump is a 239 only (Unless it is a Lincoln Y-Block. I don't know much about those)
Check the letters on the intake or the heads. EBV is a 55 239, EBU is a 54 239
Here is an identification chart. Y

I would also recommend downloading the master parts catalog. It is free. There are two pdf files. One has exploded diagrams and the other is text with all part numbers.
https://charpindustries.com/diagrams/
 
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Old Jan 22, 2023 | 08:00 AM
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I’ve used PB Blaster before, but Derek from the Vice grip garage YouTube channel (he does revivals) uses Marvel Mystery Oil. What’s in Marvel mystery oil? No one knows…it’s a mystery.
 
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Old Jan 22, 2023 | 11:21 AM
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Appears to be a 132hp 239 or 140hp 256. Impossible to tell from literature, look indentical.
 
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Old Jan 22, 2023 | 11:46 AM
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My two bits. Once you've soaked it in your favourite penetrating lube heat is your best friend. A warm engine turns over so much more easily than a cold one. Get one of these and plug it in for a few hours before trying. The expansion can also help to break the bonds of corrosion.

https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/pr...-heater-1-500w
 
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Old Jan 22, 2023 | 11:58 AM
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I have a few minutes so I'll offer this suggestion. Find a borescope, they're cheap; look down the cylinders prior to putting any "free up" stuff in there. It will give you a sense of what you have and how to deal with it or even if it is worth dealing with. Heat-cool cycle surface rust is sometimes easy to bypass. Water or coolant intrusion is usually a "death sentence". Just one old man's suggestion. Been there, done that. Valve covers are easy to pull on that engine to view valve train condition.
 
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Old Jan 22, 2023 | 03:46 PM
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Wise words. If a head gasket is gone it's coming apart. No sense in going further and scoring cylinder walls etc. The truck looks like it's very worthy of a restoration.
 
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Old Jan 22, 2023 | 06:02 PM
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Originally Posted by tripleframe
Appears to be a 132hp 239 or 140hp 256. Impossible to tell from literature, look indentical.
the only difference I'm aware of between the 2 engines visibility is the 256 when in the heavy duty application has a one quart larger oil pan
 
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Old Jan 28, 2023 | 01:54 PM
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Thanks everyone for the tips. Seems like a great group here. Still working on turning the motor. After cleaning the engine up with a shop vac and compressed air I found this at the back of the intake manifold. That settles it’s a 239 EBV. Transmission looks like the stock 4-speed. I have the cab stripped out and started pulling fenders off. I wanna get it down to the frame and powertrain. I can do all the body in the garage in pieces but there’s no room for the frame.



 
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