Oil leak
Nothing like ding the rear seal only to have it still leak

Get some de-greaser and carb or brake clean.
Use the de-greaser first to get most of the oil & dirt off the motor & transmission.
Also see the 2 bolts at the bottom of the bell housing, remove them and pry the plate away from the bell housing a little and try and clean that area the best you can.
Now any oil / grease that is left use the carb / brake clean to get it clean.
Again pry that plate away and clean it better with the spray cleaner.
I would keep that plate pried away and start the truck and let it idle.
Try not to bring the RPM up as that may blow the oil all over and not be able to tell where it is coming from.
Check to see if you can now pin point where the leak is coming from.
Check and re-check the valve cover at the rear to make sure it is not leaking and running down the bell housing and making it look like the rear seal. Use a mirror and light to check back there.
If it is running at idle and not leaking after say 5 min. bring the RPM up a little and check everything again.
I cant see the rear main seal leaking oil up on to the starter and why rechecking the valve cover.
Also with the plate away from the bell housing if the rear seal was leaking it should now drip out as the plate is not holding it back.
I had a oil leak at the front and at first thinking front seal.
Oil pan, side cover & valve cover gaskets were all changed before motor went back in.
After cleaning it for the 100th time I put some time into finding the leak.
I de-greased the motor and used a pressure washer to get it really clean.
I started the motor and could not pin point the leak so out came the carb cleaner.
It also did not really leak at idle so the RPM had to be up a little and the fan would then blow the oil all over.
Spray cleaner again, removing the fresh paint on the motor
but I was then able to find it.\Turned out to be the timing cover gasket at the top and only spit out when the RPM was above idle and the fan blowing it all over.
Year ago new years eve I pulled the cover and replace the gasket and no more oil leak from the motor.
I have a PS fitting now leaking and maybe the trans?
Dave ----
BTW It looks like you have a heavy T18 or NP435 from the PTO plate.
If it is the rear seal it is a 50 / 50 on what to pull.
Being the trans is not flat on the bottom using a floor jack to pull it is not fun and you will be fighting to keep it on the jack.
I bought a HF trans jack when I had to swap transmissions and even with it it was a little better.
Think I would pull the motor.
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Works for me
That appears to be the correct OEM part . I googled the 7051 p/n from Gary's page, and looked down the page a bit and found that link.
Dave F is the best...along with Dave G and Karl...not in any order...
I dont remember, been a few years now, when I had the front bearing retainer off my NP435 to cut it shorter for the over drive unit what seal it had sorry.
I will tell you the paper gasket around the bolts is how they adjust the pre-load on the main shaft.
So be careful when you remove the retainer and if it dose rip use vary little / thin layer of sealer with what is left of the paper gasket as you dont want to change the pre-load.
Dave ----
I dont remember, been a few years now, when I had the front bearing retainer off my NP435 to cut it shorter for the over drive unit what seal it had sorry.
I will tell you the paper gasket around the bolts is how they adjust the pre-load on the main shaft.
So be careful when you remove the retainer and if it dose rip use vary little / thin layer of sealer with what is left of the paper gasket as you dont want to change the pre-load.
Dave ----
ATT I did not know of the 1 part pan gasket and went with the 4 part but after some driving and tracking down leaks found some of the pan bolts loose but been dry since.
On that paper gasket it may come as a few gaskets to set the pre-load so you will need to find what that pre-load isbefore putting the gasket back on.
Dave ----














