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I was wondering what the best recommendation is for long-tube headers for my 1986 f250 4x4 with a rebuilt, non-egr 351W. I was hoping to find ones that are relatively easy to install, high quality, long-lasting, and good-looking.
They don't exist. None of them are easy to install and hook up. Only the very expensive ones are long lasting and stay somewhat good looking. They all use up valuable ground clearance and make maintenance to the transmission and starter difficult.
Can you tell I do not like long tube headers on these trucks? Yes you get some power increase, but is it worth the hassle? Not in my mind. I have had several sets on these trucks.Get under there a look how the stock y-pipe is tucked up nice and close to the engine and the exhaust stays up high next to the frame out of the way.
I just got my engine back from the machine shop and they did the bottom end up really well. I just ordered AFR 165's and I want it to be really nice. I don't mind giving up a little bit of power to get something that will go in there nicely and not be such a pain in the butt to work on and maintain later.
What should I put in there apart from the old, beat up exhaust manifolds? Should I go with short ones?
My 2¢ is in regard to header coating. I bought a set of Hedman Hedders that needed to be stripped and painted. Stripping the headers is a tedious PITA. You'll have $30 in primer and paint. Curing results vary.
Recommendation: Buy headers with a permanent coating. The shorty headers I bought were also offered with coating coating. In hindsight, that would probably have been a better value.
My 2¢ is in regard to header coating. I bought a set of Hedman Hedders that needed to be stripped and painted. Stripping the headers is a tedious PITA. You'll have $30 in primer and paint. Curing results vary.
Recommendation: Buy headers with a permanent coating. The shorty headers I bought were offered with ceramic coating coating too. In hindsight, that would probably have been a better value.
I did this also. Lacquer thinner and a rag took the factory black paint right off. I then bought some of that expensive VHT paint and painted them with that. Getting them installed without scratching the VHT was the next problem. I then started the engine to cure the paint. It turned it a little dull, but it stayed on there fairly well for a few years.
Recommendation: Buy headers with a permanent coating. The shorty headers I bought were offered with ceramic coating coating too. In hindsight, that would probably have been a better value.
FWIW, I bought a set of expensive ceramic coated Hedman headers for my classic Oldsmobile. 8 years later the ceramic coating peeled off. IMHO, headers are a pain. I have no plans to install headers in my Bullnose truck Good luck.
I have a 86 f150 5.0 with long tubes. They were the regular flat black painted Flowtech ones but I took them to get coated before installing. I live about an hour from M&R Coatings so I took them there. Here’s their website: https://www.header-coatings.com/
They guaranteed them not to turn colors and I’ve had them for 4or 5 years now and they look like the day I installed them. As mentioned already they do take a way some clearance.
Bent down looking from passenger side
To install them I raised the truck high as possible and brought them up from underneath and have some help. My oldest son was under the truck sending them up and me and my younger son were over top lining them up and bolting them on. Use several rags or old towels to pad the surroundings to keep from scratching them.
My '89 with '84 351W has JBA short tube headers on it. Runs well and no problems with fit. I did use a heat shield on several plug wires where I thought they might make contact and burn. Should be very similar to your situation.
Just stock heads. Just has an Edelbrock Performer manifold, Edelbrock 1806 carburetor and recurved distributor. Doesn't do too bad for being internally stock.
