Need to change my user name to Caly450 since I've had my new truck since July.

Have a Toyhauler that we boondock in but have been thinking about a slide in camper for doing weekend trips and longer cross country trips.....just don't feel like dragging a long trailer in the above scenarios.

in the meantime I found an '07 class A with a blown V10....kind of surprising since it only has 20k miles and I'm a fan of the V10.

If I could do a swap for a reasonable price, it may be not far off the cost of the truck campers I'm looking at....registration/maintenance and insurance not withstanding.


Searching the WWW. and trying to figure out if there's a difference in the F-550/F53 chassis V10 and 250/350 motors.

8th digit is a Y


Any shared knowledge would be appreciated.

Thanks.

 

I have been told and have read that structually they are the same BUT the EFI tune reduces the power output in motorhomes. My BIL's 2012 Class A has a 3 valve V10 rated for 320hp while trucks had the 362hp rating. This is done because many MH owners do not know when to back off the throttle while climbing hills. Nothing tells them they're working the engine too hard. OEM's then detune the engine so they can not overwork the engine.

One concern I would have is the electronics/tune that the Class A has with a 20k blown V10. Replacing the engine may not remove the cause of the problem only the results.

In my 60+ years of running engines to max power at times and seeing the results of an improper "tune" I have learned that there are ways to prevent total destruction of an engine running an improper tune. I now never run my boat or RV truck engines at maximum power without having an oil temperature guage. Water temp can be a poor indication of engine tune. Oil temp is a truer indication of the tune or combustion chamber temp within the cylinders. I have blown engines in my boat running 3600, water temp at 180* (fresh water cooled) and everything appeared normal. After replacing the engines but installing oil temp gauges in the oil pans and again running 3600 I could easily see why the first engine blew up. Oil temp steadily climbed until I dropped the RPM's back to 3200 because oil temp had hit 250* and still climbing. Results would have been another blown engine due to oil temp getting too high to properly lubricate the engine. What I did to correct the problem was enrichen the air/fuel mixture and reduce ignition timing until oil temp remained at a maximum of 240* and being able to run 4000 with no increase in oil temp above 245*. Modern engines with EFI tunes are able to be tuned but in order to do that you need data, water & oil temps plus oil pressures are just some of the data to use to "fine tune" your EFI systems. I now will never use an engine in my boat or truck hard unless I can monitor the oil temperature and is always used as to how hard I work it.