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I've been trying to install a 351M in my truck. The transmission is still in the truck, 4 speed. I have the bellhousing and clutch on the engine. I didn't have much luck with it today. Does anyone know from experience if it would be better to mount the bellhousing to the transmission first? I figured it might be a little easier since I won't have to line up the throwout bearing too.
Thoughts?
Alignment studs. Take some extra long bolts, cut off the head, cut a flat tip screwdriver groove in the end. Install, makes for an easier time help hold the trans in place to get the splines to line up then slide it the rest of the way in. Replace one bolt at at time. You do have a clutch alignment tool? A little short piece of wooden broom stick might work.
"Transmission install tip-8" long grade 8 bolts with the heads cut off to make guide studs. These make installing the transmission a whole lot easier, and since I was doing everything by hand, easier was always better. These bolts have been put in their own box and labeled for future use. Use a hack saw to cut flat tip screwdriver slots in the ends, use a grinder to round the ends a little after cutting off the heads.
Trans tip 2- When installing a flywheel and torquing the bolts, you need to prevent the crankshaft from turning. I used a piece of 1/2" aluminum U-channel which I cut to length and slipped between two of the ring gear teeth. I then wedged it against the bottom inside corner of the frame at about a 60 degree angle. The aluminum is softer than the iron teeth, so any damage will occur to it long before the teeth, and it will actually conform itself to the iron teeth if enough pressure is applied. The U-channel also fits perfectly over the outside edge of an FE flywheel, so it will not slip off!
To actually install the transmission itself, I slid it under the truck on a piece of cardboard, then used two pieces of 2" round hardwood stock laid across the transmission tunnel as "hands"...I tied two pieces of rope under the front and rear of the trans, then ran them over the stock, then back down to me. This way I could pull down and push up from underneath, while having the option of tying off the rope to the frame to hold the trans suspended while I repositioned. "
No I do not think so, in fact you might have to jack up on the back of the motor a bit to get the trans shaft to line up better. The motor mounts are like a pivot point to help raise the back of the motor.
Just because you used an alignment tool doesn't mean much. not very often does it get the disc close enough to let the shaft go into the pilot bushing, it works for me 1 out of 4 times maybe, plan on having to release the clutch with the arm to get it the last 3/4" . do not try to pull it in with the bolts.
I was changing out a clutch in my '69 Dart Swinger 340 / 4spd once, I did not have an alignment tool, so I had my sister sit in the car, and I worked my way under the transmission so that it was on my chest. Car front tires up on some old wheels, rear tires on solid wood ramps. I pushed the transmission up and into the bellhousing, got the shaft through the throwout bearing and just as I started the input shaft into the pressure plate in between the fingers, yelled push and she pushed the clutch pedal down and held it ... then a little more wiggling got the transmission input shaft in through the disc and home into the pilot bushing. I was 18 or 19, Y&D ... damn, that lump of iron was heavy (120.6 lbs. dry, no bell housing).
Like Rich said, never use bolts to pull the bellhousing up to the block. You'll crack the block, and or the bellhousing.
For me, it's easier to install the engine with the bellhousing on the transmission. But when installing the transmission, while under the truck, it's easier with the bellhousing attached to the block. If you install the engine with the bellhousing attached, go easy, because if you bump that clutch out of alignment, you'll have to pull it all out and pull the bellhousing off.
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