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I am getting a spark knock(pinging)when my truck(1952 F-1,completely stock 8RT flathead) gets a slight load or pull on it.Never had this problem before.I do have about 12,000 miles on points and condensor.Maybe this gas today has got worse?Could timing maybe be adjusted to help,if so which way to move the distributor?I am guessing my plugs probably have about 25,000 miles on them.Can it be time for a complete tune up?
It seems to me back in the day engines needed a complete tune up--plugs, points, rotor, distributor cap, plus a carb and timing adjustment every year--or they didn't run. My 68 Plymouth needed all of that to be dependable. It had duel exhaust, and it seemed a muffler replacement was an annual thing too. That being said, I don't remember a ping as being a symptom of trouble. I knew I needed a tune up when the car wouldn't start. Good luck.
To retard the timing, turn the distributor Clockwise. Then give it a good Italian tune-up -- blow the carbon out.
Thanks Ross,I will bump up the distributor a little and see if that helps.Speaking of tune up,does anyone sell a good set of ignition points these days? I think I got H-10 champion plugs in it that have been in for quiet awhile.
Champions have gone down in quality, I prefer Autolite #216. There are a lot of fakes on Amazon, I'd be cautious buying there. I doubt plugs are causing the pinging tho.
See if you can just dress your existing points, and re-set them. NAPA sells a "premium" line of points, I hear they are still good, under their Echlin line. I don't know the number. Condensers are a real crap shoot no matter the source. If yours is working I would not replace it.
I am getting a spark knock(pinging)when my truck(1952 F-1,completely stock 8RT flathead) gets a slight load or pull on it.Never had this problem before.I do have about 12,000 miles on points and condensor.Maybe this gas today has got worse?Could timing maybe be adjusted to help,if so which way to move the distributor?I am guessing my plugs probably have about 25,000 miles on them.Can it be time for a complete tune up?
Pinging is BAD ! Really hard on your engine. If you have a Timing Light, set timing at 24 degrees total advance, maybe 25 if you run premium fuel. See comments below about plugs, he is right, and yes, gas quality is not what it used to be. Also, I would highly recommend getting rid of your Loadamatic Distributor if you are running one. Best of luck .
Thanks Ross,I will bump up the distributor a little and see if that helps.Speaking of tune up,does anyone sell a good set of ignition points these days? I think I got H-10 champion plugs in it that have been in for quiet awhile.
I buy NOS points and condenser from a guy at the Carlisle (PA) shows. He is there for Spring and Fall shows and also there for the Ford Show in early June. Maybe check ebay for NOS parts.
I had trouble with pinging as well. I tried new points, condenser, rotor and cap, but it continued. Once I bought NOS points and condenser it stopped. I set my timing just a tad, 2-3 degrees, advanced past the stock setting. Any more than that and it pings under load.
The newly manufactured points were a headache. They wouldn't conduct at first, it took a bunch of cleaning and filing to get them working at all, then I had drivability issues, including pinging and hesitating. Still, it didn't run right until I replaced with NOS parts. Toward the end of the driving season (my truck is packed away for winter) it started acting up again, so I suspect that in the spring I'll need to replace points again.
I was looking at NAPA for Eghlin tune up parts for stock 1952 8RT flathead and there is three different ignition points listed.(CS749,CS753 and heavy duty CS753SB).Can't see any difference in either one?Which one should I use?Also is FA76 a good condensor?I am trying to stay with Eghlin for Quality!
As I read it, the 749 is the heavy duty version. The 753 looks about the same in the pic, but pics can be generic so I wouldn't necessarily trust that for accuracy. 753 and 749 are the same price, so if one is supposed to be heavier duty, I'd probably go with that one. They both come with a 3 year warranty so save your receipt.
The SB suffix says sub brand and is not shown to be an Echlin part. It has a plastic arm where the other parts are metal, only has a one year warranty and comes with this disclaimer; Designed to be cost-effective replacement parts for the vehicle.
The 753 is "pierced", which I believe is what used to be called "ventilated". The center of the stationary contact is drilled out. I think I'd go with the 749.
Ok,finally got my truck straightened out.New plugs(216 Autolites),points,condenser and rotary button.Runs dang good now,it was cutting out real bad at 70!
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