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1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 1987 - 1996 Ford F-150, F-250, F-350 and larger pickups - including the 1997 heavy-duty F250/F350+ trucks

Ignition wiring

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Old Dec 4, 2022 | 04:05 PM
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Ignition wiring

Hey all,

I need some help…..I attempted to tackle removing and replacing the ignition actuator in a 1991 F250 this weekend to no avail.

the broken piece is stuck in the “channel” in which it supposed to slide.

I’ve done everything I can think of as well as everything recommended on the net to remove this piece with no success.

at this point I want to put a new keyed ignition in the dash panel to replace factory.

can anyone help advise what wires need routed to the new ignition for acc, start, run? I’m assuming there’s also a hot wire to power all those functions, would it need routed up the steering column still and spliced off for the new ignition?

any help would be greatly appreciated!
 
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Old Dec 5, 2022 | 05:36 AM
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i use a "dental pick" to reach behind and poke the broken piece out.
 
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Old Dec 5, 2022 | 06:06 AM
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You cannot push up toward the steering wheel using a screwdriver or the rod to the ignition switch?
 
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Old Dec 5, 2022 | 06:27 AM
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I can’t find anywhere to push from behind. I’ve tried the pick method but only from the top.

do I need to remove the column to be able to access the backside of the sliding piece?
 
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Old Dec 5, 2022 | 06:47 AM
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I didn’t have any problems removing the old parts but maybe it broke higher up? You could try removing the two bolts and lower the column. No need to remove it from the truck.
 
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Old Dec 5, 2022 | 10:36 AM
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  1. Did you pull the pins on the tilt mechanism?
  2. Another trick I have used is drill a small hole in the piece ans screw a self tapper in, than grab the self tapper with pliers or a small slide hammer and pull it out
 
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Old Dec 5, 2022 | 12:13 PM
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I’ve done all that and it won’t come out. I drilled and got a long screw to hold really well, with a lot of prying, hitting, and pulling it won’t budge.

I’m really in the camp of a new ignition switch on the dash to fix if anyone can help. I’d rather fix it the correct way but this darn thing just will not budge. I think I might be able to drill it out and use a chisel to get the corners but just seems like too much work if I can just wire in a new keyed ignition switch.
 
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Old Dec 5, 2022 | 02:49 PM
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The column mounted ignition switch has multiple functions and circuits that go through it. Since it appears you cannot actuate it anymore I assume your idea of a dash mounted ignition switch is to eliminate the column switch functions completely?

If so, this is what you are up against (Ignition Switch Circuits and Testing):
 
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Old Dec 6, 2022 | 08:06 PM
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Originally Posted by rla2005
The column mounted ignition switch has multiple functions and circuits that go through it. Since it appears you cannot actuate it anymore I assume your idea of a dash mounted ignition switch is to eliminate the column switch functions completely?

If so, this is what you are up against (Ignition Switch Circuits and Testing):
This is super helpful and exactly what I needed. Thank you so much!!
 
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Old Dec 17, 2022 | 03:55 PM
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Alright, so I was successful in getting the new ignition switch installed and all works well meaning the acc, run, and start functions.

BUT…..

I can no longer shift my auto trans into gear. I’m stuck on if this is the actuator being stuck preventing the shifting or the brake switch….any ideas or thoughts?

I’m trying to prevent from tearing the steering column apart again unless absolutely necessary. I’m thinking it’s brakes related but not completely certain.
 
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Old Dec 17, 2022 | 05:13 PM
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I’ve had some time to think this through, I have no brake lights but my trailer brake controller lights up brake lights. This means I have a power issue with the brakes which is likely not releasing the trans actuator meaning electrical.

I’m going to test for power at brake switch on peddle tomorrow, might be simple fix from dropping panel over fuses or even as simple as fuse. If I can get brake lights back and still have issue then I’ll chase down a mechanical fix instead of electrical.
 
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Old Dec 17, 2022 | 06:05 PM
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this is because you did not remove the broken piece of the actuator. as long as that is still in the column it will not shift out of park.
 
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Old Dec 18, 2022 | 08:36 PM
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Originally Posted by tjc transport
this is because you did not remove the broken piece of the actuator. as long as that is still in the column it will not shift out of park.
You were right, as soon as I broke it off I could shift the transmission.
 
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Old Dec 19, 2022 | 04:42 AM
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Seems like you did a lot of extra work to wire in another lock cylinder verses disassembling the column far enough to remove that piece.
 
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Old Dec 19, 2022 | 07:20 AM
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Originally Posted by My4Fordtrucks
Seems like you did a lot of extra work to wire in another lock cylinder verses disassembling the column far enough to remove that piece.
Again, you’re correct. I do have the confidence now that the actuator won’t break on my wife and kids when they’re 30 miles from no where with no cell reception to call for help. I’ll just have to deal with whatever the next repair on a 30+ year old truck is that leaves them stranded.
 
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