No on both, where do we find specs on what those values should be. I do have a scanner that I think I might be able to check MAF sensor. What about the EGR could it be stuck open and not throw any kind of code?

 

If it's an OBD1 calibration, it won't have EGR. Might need to check the emissions compliance label underside of hood to verify configuration. If it says "OBDII" or "California" , it's not OBD1. Most SD trucks (the E250-E450 included) of that era, unless they were shipped to one of the "green states", usually were OBD1.

MAF sensor should read 6-8 g/s at hot idle, 20-25 g/s at 2500 RPM. You may have to do units conversion depending on how your tool displays live data. Google has tools to do this.
FP should be between 30-45 psi. You want to make sure it isn't dropping off at the time the misfires are observed as fuel starvation can cause misfires as well as "lean" codes when fuel demand is high.

 

OK I borrowed a better scan tool here is the freeze Frame. This tool is only showing 1 DTC Cylinder #6 Misfire. Cylinder #6 was the one that blew the plug out.
Short Term Fuel Trim Bank 1 2.3%
Long Term Fuel Trim Bank 1 9.4%

Short Term Fuel Trim Bank 2 7.0%
Long Term Fuel Trim Bank 2 0.0%
RPM 3289
Speed 57mph

 

I have a Creader Professional Launch CRP123 how do I get to Live Data?

 

What was used to repair the blown plug's hole? A name brand professional item or a simple cheap insert or heilicoil?

Instructions should be in its owner's manual.

 

I'm not sure it was done by a Ford Dealership. I'm assuming since it was a dealer a brand name insert was used.

 

Not sure if this thread went past post #21. I just singed up. Did the OP every get this figured out?

 

The problem was the hack job helicoil the dealer used. The cylinder would not build compression. We tried the expensive insert that used JB weld but the cylinder was still dead, Ultimately paid $9000 for a complete engine overhaul with brand new aftermarket cylinder heads. Motorhome runs fantastic now., The cheap repair hack job the dealer did caused low compression and carbon build up on the compression ring and it no longer sealed. The heads I got have 10 threads per sparkplug Guaranteed to never blow out a sparkplug.

 

Oh, boy. OK thank you. Glad you are back up and running. Just picked up a 2000 E450 Motorhome with 75K miles. On my test drive it ran fine. On the 100 mile drive home on some hills, it misses slightly depending on how much I put my foot into it and I also lose dash air on the face, comes back after cresting a grade, that one I can fix. Occasionally it runs rough at idle but not all the time. Original owner Records (I am 3rd) indicate plugs checked for torque at 30k and were OK and were replaced about 3k miles ago. No indication of inserts on receipts. One coil was replaced at some point as well for a miss. I need to look for any pending or stored codes. It sat for 2 years before 2nd owner bought it, it was not used much in the year the 2nd owner had it. Seafoam comes to mind as well.

 

good luck with this problematic v-10 pos. Replace all your COPs with a new set of Motorcraft. The blower is unrelated to drivability but equally annoying. Google something about F450 blower switches while driving. There is a vid on utube showing how to install a new vacuum canister and bypas FORDs ****** placement of the factory canister and check valve. I hate FORD products and this motorhome strengthens that hate. Im looking for a Super C or Chevy Chasse.

 

Yes, I watched that video this morning. Good alternate to the Ford location. My experience has been Chevy and Dodge/Cummins. I had 1 other Ford in year 2000, an F350 dually (1989) with the International 7.3 Diesel. It left us stranded on the highway near Lone Pine CA supposedly a busted crank shaft. I parted that out and went with the Dodge/Cummins. Not many Class C diesels out there and not ready or have room for the Super C diesels. Thanks for the input.

 

I was going to say that your symptoms sound just like my F250 when I bought it. Crappy repair of a blown plug but mine turned out not to have compression due to a hole in the valve, presumably from crap that fell into the cylinder when the shoddy repair was done. Had to pull the cab and heads before I even made it to the DMV.

 

Been reading up on bad batteries causing sensor issues. Its from 2018 and probably has been dead a few times. I going to start there first as it needs one anyway.