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firewall mounted booster/mc (but that's just 2-3' more tubing
5/16" steel lines..I bought 5' sections with fittings done... coupled with brass couplings
5/16" are good size...bigger makes it harder to build pressure.
lines run inside frame rails with rubber coated tubing clamps every 2-3 feet
the back line can end on the crossmember over the pumpkin and you need a tee fitting to branch to each side
my tee was mounted with the top 3rd member bolt with SS braided hose from frame crossmember to the tee
Steel lines to the brake cylinders
front... I ran a line down to frame rail then a tee with separate lines to each side... used thru the frame fittings and stainless braided hoses from the outside
of the frame rails to the wheel cylinders.. You can also use weld on clips to hold the fitting between hard line and SS braided line
left side was short... right side bent around the MII crossmember to the right side...same setup as the left side
use rubber coated clamps everywhere
two things... buy good bender and crimp tool..... don't use hydraulic brake light switch...they all leak
Disc / disc builds I do a 1/4" line from master cylinder to the rear axle brake hose, 3/16" out to each rear wheel I use a 79 C10 truck rear hose on my custom builds. Front I use 1/4" or 3/16" depending on master cylinder outlet size to a T fitting to 3/16" to each front wheel. No proportioning valve needed for 4 wheel discs. T fitting must be a brake fitting with seats on all ports to take the double flared lines. I use rolls of 25' nickel copper line with fittings which is very easy to bend by hand and make my own lines, no splices or adapters needed.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
