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There has been a lot of discussion on other forums and YouTube about this. Some others and I didn't go back with factory replacements because it is just asking for the same problems down the road.
Instead, I cut the hose crimp and pealed it off the rubber hose ends where the main lines come toward and ends below the passenger side of the engine. Pulled those hoses off along with that entire set up to the radiator. Replaced both sides with 1/2" high pressure hose and hose clamps that runs directly to the radiator on the driver's side and the front cooler on the other. That gets rid of six hose crimps, two quick clips and one expensive nightmare.
Last edited by Eric Wickman; Oct 30, 2022 at 03:28 PM.
Reason: terminology
I just got done changing mine out and fluid /filter change. The coupler on old lines were starting to corrode so glad I changed it now. The fluid I drained was real dark may have been the first service. Took me quite a while as filter kit had the wrong filter in it. So they ordered two more kits both of them had the correct filter in them. I think it shifts smoother now but may be all wet.
There has been a lot of discussion on other forums and YouTube about this. Some others and I didn't go back with factory replacements because it is just asking for the same problems down the road.
Instead, I cut the hose crimp and pealed it off the rubber hose ends where the main lines come toward and ends below the passenger side of the engine. Pulled those hoses off along with that entire set up to the radiator. Replaced both sides with 1/2" high pressure hose and hose clamps that runs directly to the radiator on the driver's side and the front cooler on the other. That gets rid of six hose crimps, two quick clips and one expensive nightmare.
hey do you have a source/link for the hose? And also maybe length/number of clamps? Thanks
hey do you have a source/link for the hose? And also maybe length/number of clamps? Thanks
I purchased the 1/2" transmission cooler lines from Napa.
At $7.00/foot it's not cheap but it is the best high-pressure lines they have. I ordered 6 feet of hose just to be on the safe side and maybe used 5 to 5 and a half foot of it. The clamp are just regular 3/4" hose clamps (four of them, two doubled up on each of the ends of the steel tubes coming from the transmission). I reused the factory hose clamps from the small cooler and the radiator. In the end, I added back a more than a cup and a half of Mercon LV (that drained from taking off the factory lines) to the transmission with the engine running and transmission hot using that crappy plastic trans dip stick next to the cat as a gauge.
Just take it slow and easy cutting through these metal compression fittings, then peel off the metal fitting from the rubber hose beneath, slide the hose off the end of the hard line. One side I used a dremel, the other side I used a small handheld electric drill with a cutting wheel. Honestly, it didn't matter which one I used both got the job done.
Shove the new lines as far as they can go trying to get their ends up on to the collars around the hard lines.
That plastic sleeve came off one of the factory lines and I zip tied it surrounding that hose to two points below the radiator.
Wow that really helps. Haven't seen detailed images/write up for replacing just the hoses. Thanks! Did you replace the rubber hose that runs radiator to trans cooler? When I did my heater hoses, I used snips to cut the crimp on the hoses and pull it off. I would think that would work here also. Thanks
Wow that really helps. Haven't seen detailed images/write up for replacing just the hoses. Thanks! Did you replace the rubber hose that runs radiator to trans cooler? When I did my heater hoses, I used snips to cut the crimp on the hoses and pull it off. I would think that would work here also. Thanks
Thanks. All I can take credit for is doing the job on my truck and passing on the experience. Most importantly, I had some excellent internet conversations from others Gen. 12 F-150 owners bouncing ideas around and taking this old school approach to the transmission lines. The reality is back in the 60's, 70's, 80', 90's, 2000's all of our transmission lines were plumbed with rubber transmission cooler lines up front and most, if not all, connected to steel lines that ran back to the transmission.
The OEM Crown Victoria transmission cooler lines for the 2006 - 2011 is exactly that way.
So why does the #1 truck built in America have this mess to contend with? Engineering for speed in production using the quick clips. Plus, I doubt Ford subcontracted the building of these factory lines out to the highest bidder using quality materials. Ford just replaced its Quality Executive over the number of complaints, class actions, and vehicle recalls. Attachment 277759
As for the upper right-hand line running from the cooler to the radiator, I haven't replaced it yet. It's just a short piece that looked fine and has hose clamps on each end. But it is a great idea to replace that hose since you're in there anyway and would be so simple to do. 2 minute job while drinking coffee
Right it's not like you're doing this on a power steering pressure line. I had done similar on my 79 F250. I'm actually doing this on an expedition (those forums have less info). So I'll have to pull
my grill to get this done. I'm gonna replace that small rubber line while in there. NAPAs website is a real pain so I'll have to stop by there to get it. And they're made to be assembled quickly and get through warranty period. That's it. This design is hugely disappointing. Appreciate the info again.
Did mine this weekend. The radiator to cooler line ended up being a way bigger pain than anticipated. The factory hose is formed to that shape. And replacing with new line take extra length to avoid a kink. I didn't have any extra fittings and didn't feel like butchering the stock lines I pulled off to make and elbow. May go back it with an oem line there. Cut the crimps with a pair of snips. Not a terrible job. Thanks again for help. No leaks and made it to work without catastrophic failure. I was able to get hose up on collar but had but my length a little too short to go past and clamp behind. May also go back in with barbed extensions on hoses and slide hose further back to clamp past collar for peace of mind. How long have yours been like that?
Gave me a reason to paint the grill.
Looks like you did a great job all the way around!
I've had this modification on my truck for less than a month and just under 700 miles. No problems, no leaks, transmission doesn't seem to know the difference. When Brian made his second video on this subject in less than maybe 6 months, I committed to changing out the factory lines with the quick clip to rubber high pressure lines...pronto.
Looks like you did a great job all the way around!
I've had this modification on my truck for less than a month and just under 700 miles. No problems, no leaks, transmission doesn't seem to know the difference. When Brian made his second video on this subject in less than maybe 6 months, I committed to changing out the factory lines with the quick clip to rubber high pressure lines...pronto.
Thanks! I usually watch all of his videos when they come out. I'll keep an eye on it. The line ends are corrugated but not barbed. Only thing that worries me but I'll find something to second guess no matter what. I did my heater hoses last month based on his video and my "Y" outlet hose failed. I tried snapping the connector like he does in video. Was too weak. Thanks again.
Thanks! I usually watch all of his videos when they come out. I'll keep an eye on it. The line ends are corrugated but not barbed. Only thing that worries me but I'll find something to second guess no matter what. I did my heater hoses last month based on his video and my "Y" outlet hose failed. I tried snapping the connector like he does in video. Was too weak. Thanks again.
those ridges are plenty. The clamps will mold the rubber into the grooves, after a few heat cycles tighten a small bit, it isn't going anywhere. It is much stronger than the crimp, the crimps have been known to split(second way to fail). That is why EVERY line must be changed, not just the two.
If you want a bit more protection heat the hose end a bit with hot water or heat gun (don't go crazy) stick a needle nose and bell it out a bit. Lube the end of the tube with clean ATF. Slide over the raised ring maybe 1/4" or so. Trust me, once that shrinks back it isn't going ANYWHERE. Add the clamps, and it is stronger than stock.
You could also use Oetiker clamps, but worms are more than enough.
This repair is so strong it is used on Air Conditioning lines, with 10X the pressure.
those ridges are plenty. The clamps will mold the rubber into the grooves, after a few heat cycles tighten a small bit, it isn't going anywhere. It is much stronger than the crimp, the crimps have been known to split(second way to fail). That is why EVERY line must be changed, not just the two.
If you want a bit more protection heat the hose end a bit with hot water or heat gun (don't go crazy) stick a needle nose and bell it out a bit. Lube the end of the tube with clean ATF. Slide over the raised ring maybe 1/4" or so. Trust me, once that shrinks back it isn't going ANYWHERE. Add the clamps, and it is stronger than stock.
You could also use Oetiker clamps, but worms are more than enough.
This repair is so strong it is used on Air Conditioning lines, with 10X the pressure.
I appreciate the insight. I always second guess stuff and usually have to have someone tell me to walk away. I've been checking them and no leaks all week. When you say every line what do you mean? I replaced all of the transmission cooler lines including the radiator to cooler short hose. Or are you also including all crimped lines on vehicle? For example, during my upcoming oil change, I'm going to replace the power steering pressure line to the rack with a Motorcraft replacement.
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