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Hey all...Been a while since I posted since I've not had any issues with my truck (knock on wood)
Yesterday, I helped a buddy to bleed the brakes on his 2006 F350 King Ranch 6.0. Easy, right ?
He installed new calipers on the rear and pads all around...bleeding was very easy since all the bleeders easily broke loose. The fluid was filthy, I believe he said it has 300k on it. Got all the bubbles bled out and only clean fluid coming out. Took it for a test drive and it still has no pedal. Re-bled them (typical fashion, furthest wheel to the closest to the master cylinder). Pedal was a little better but still awful. Re-bled them again...same issue. Re-bled them...AGAIN...same thing.
I've bled brakes dozens of times in my day and I can't figure out what step I might have missed. Pump it up 3 times and hold it, crack the bleeder, close the bleeder while the helper keeps a steady foot on the pedal. Continue until you no longer see air bubbles.
Can anyone offer some advice on what the issue might be and how to resolve it? As far as I know, the master cylinder never got low.
First bleed the brake that is the farthest from the master cylinder. Open the bleeder valve and push the brake pedal all the way down. Both fluid and air may come out the valve. While holding the pedal all the way down, close the bleeder. This prevents air being drawn back into the fluid line. Only push the pedal down one time before closing the bleeder valve. Pump the pedal to see it in has any resistance. If the pedal is still not firm, repeat the bleeding again. When the dual master cylinders first came out, many times both the front and back sections had to be bled on the vehicle; there were special bleeding kits to perform this operation.
Thank you for the quick reply. We performed that method and also the pump three times method. I'm thinking it might be another issue, all fluid coming out is both clean and free of air bubbles.
One mistake I have made in the past was to install the rear calipers on the wrong side. Look at the calipers, if the bleeders are towards the bottom of the caliper they are on the wrong side and you'll never get out all of the air. Your bleeders on the caliper should be about the highest point on the caliper.
At 300K miles and you telling us the Fluid was filthy, I would assume almost black, It could be that the seals gave out inside the MC, usually when the fluid turns real dark, it's a sign that the seals are degrading. But at 300K, I'd just buy a new MC anyway and install it....Don't forget to bench bleed it real good before installing.
That's kind of what I was thinking...the brake fluid looked like Dr. Pepper
Kind of the same for me, I blew a brake line a few years ago on the Left rear, replaced the line but it wouldn't bleed out. Brake fluid the same, like Dr. Pepper, I replace the MC and called it a day, everything worked fine.
This story is getting interesting. Update when the MC is on. I too installed new brake lines to the rear and from the ABS module. I replaced the flex hoses to the brakes and the hose that goes from the axle to the rear hard brake line, above the driver side rear wheel. I had a friend come and crack open the lines while I pumped the brakes. I did not change the calipers on either side as they were working fine. My fittings seemed to leak no matter what we did. These were brand new lines from an on-line pre-fit brake/hose manufacturer. I swallowed my pride and limped it to the shop. The mechanic swears that the fittings were the wrong thread pitch, I couldn't believe it, I still don't. Brakes are fickle and if you don't get it right you will feel the frustration every time you see a drop of brake fluid coming out of somewhere that shouldn't.
Leaking where, at the caliper? If so, did you install a new crush rings on BOTH sides of the hydraulic line at the caliper? I’ve seen new hoses installed with no crush rings as well as with reused crush rings, which leads to leaks.
The master cylinder could be leaking through internally. If you can remove the steel tubing and block the outlets from the master cylinder, then you can depress the brake pedal to determine if the master cylinder is bleeding through. The cylinder in the master has several o-rings to prevent internal leakage. If the master is leaking, I suggest you buy a good rebuilt master. Years ago we rebuilt our own masters; not sure rebuild kits are even available now.
Thank you everyone, for all of your suggestions... Sorry it took so long to respond. We got the issue fixed, my buddy went ahead and replaced his front calipers as well as the rears...I took a look underneath the back and the calipers were reversed, the bleeders were on the bottom. He switched them around and I went out to his place to re-bleed them and now everything is just ducky.
Thank you again everyone !