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Thanks. And yes, lots of wires!
One other question I had is can you get a close-up of the numbers on the top of the relay/solenoid? Just curious if yours is a standard Ford starter relay, or a separate number rated at continuous duty.
I’m sure the parts books that some of the members here have will show whether it’s the same or different, but I’m still curious.
Thanks!
As you can see from the pic, there are no identifying numbers/letters visible on the bottom of the solenoid other than "Made in the USA", and the very faint outline of some illegible numbers. This suggests that the original part number was on a paste on decal/lable. This is the original solenoid from the factory. The starter solenoid on the passenger side has been replaced a couple of times, the last one probably not made in USA.
Thanks. Yep, you can just see the Ford type engineering numbering there on the opposite side.
But just the "Made In USA" wording screams "DON'T THROW THAT ONE AWAY EVER!" unless it actually fails.
Which it might never do...
I believe Cole Hersee company made bumpside ones. They have the same footprint and posts lay out as Motorcraft, but most are ungrounded. Never saw dual in dents, I knew they existed but hen's teeth around here.
Paul... I'm the very proud, original owner of a 1976 F350, 460/C6, with factory camper shell. Only 83K miles, and mostly all OEM. I have held onto everything I've upgraded, except for the original bench seat. I now have front seats out of a 2006-8 F150 Laramie edition. No rust anywhere on the truck, as it has been a "garage queen" most of it's life. I run antique plates now, and it's been driven less than 500 miles/yr for the past few years.. I get lots of "...is it for sale..." comments everytime I take it out. I have no need to hold onto it other than nostalgia, but I do enjoy taking it out for errands once in a while. I have a favorite grandson that will get it when I pass. I will post some new pics of it soon.
Thanks for the extra picture. Great looking rig for sure.
Some of the askers are probably legitimately liking your truck, while many are just looking to flip it for a few bucks profit.
Or a lot of profit!
Some are selling for twenty or thirty thousand, while some are selling for literally a hundred thousand and more.
The the negative battery cable is attached to the galvanized fender support structure (the same structure you can see in a previous pic, where one side of the battery hold down is attached). Here's a pic; guess I should have used a black lead, but I had a spare pos battery cable. It's easily traced/visible from the negative post of the battery to the mounting point. I guess I could put a couple of turns of black electrical tape on the red cable, a la the way electricians designate the common white lead as hot for some installations.
Last edited by vettman; Oct 26, 2022 at 03:16 PM.
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