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MAIN ISSUE: Truck starts, will run well until warm and then bog down with no power.
84 F150 302 2wd w/ overdrive and cruise control (I will never use this).
There are a lot of deletes and I do not know if the following matters:
Line going from Dist to T on Carb seems to be connected to BV on Carb.
The Charcoal Cannister is destroyed, can I just put a one-way in-line valve to ??? (see below)
All the Purge CV seems to be deleted
Notes:
No vacuum leaks found using soapy water
Only using Front Fuel tank as I just replaced it (will do rear as soon as I have $$$) as both tanks were full of rust showing up in fuel filter
I think the above happened due to water getting in broken top EVAP Charcoal Box and working its way to the tanks via that vent tube
I have not replaced the PCV valve or oil filler cap with vent to currently disconnected hose to air filter housing
That diagram for your carb is no good. You have a aftermarket carb, which can be a good thing. Here is a manual for it with lots of good info on how carbs work. Don't get hung up at first on all the tuning info. Most of these carbs are tuned at the factory and work well with that tune. https://www.edelbrock.com/media/wysi...ers-manual.pdf
Soapy water is good for checking leaks on pressurized pipes. But it does not work well with vacuum lines which have a vacuum. A vacuum will not make bubbles with soapy water. What works well is something the engine will burn in a spray can. You can try brake cleaner. When the engine is running spray some brake cleaner in the carb. If the engine reacts to it, then you can start spraying it around suspect areas. If the engine reacts again, you know the engine is sucking in the brake cleaner and you have a vacuum leak there.
Here is a picture of the vacuum line hook-ups for your carb.
On your charcoal canister, you can get rid of it. The most important thing is to find that hard line going to the canister that runs up the frame rail. This is the vent for the fuel tank. Make sure it stays open. You may get a gas smell from it, but it needs to stay open. Everything else can go.
Thank you everyone. I had done a few things at once, but at the end of the day I was back up and running.
- Cleaned carb
- Removed Evap Charcoal box, left tube open as suggested
- New Vacuum Adv line
- Also did a Heater/AC delete as they didn't work anyway and were letting water into the cab
