Engine tear down
Thread Starter
|
Tuned
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 403
Likes: 36
Engine tear down
Well, it's been a while. Between a crappy job that I just ditched, the nightmare of Savannah summers and lots of other stuff the truck has been sitting for a few months. Today I had a free day and it was beautiful out so this is what I got done in 8 hours. Had a couple of hickups and I am going to have to deal with that distributor. Also the cam appears to be pretty badly pitted so it's going to have to be replaced. The photos really tell the tale though, galley is super clean. Still cross hatching on the cylinder walls after 85k on the build. No scratches it would appear either. Ran my nail against the wall and the only thing it caught on was the carbon right at the top. Feel free to kick in any advice or input or if there is anything you see!
Pictures
Pictures
Grumpy goat
Joined: May 2017
Posts: 3,058
Likes: 596
Good to hear from you again! Hard to access those photos. Weird. The only bad thing I noticed, besides the distributor, was the usual wonky wear on the flat tappet camshaft. Did you check tension on the pushrods, on base circle? Are any of the lifters collapsed? I assume since the lifters are still in, you don't want to pull them out through the top. I don't like to pull flat tappet lifters out from the top either. There's usually at least one lifter that has a mushroomed edge that'll score the crap out of the lifter bore. I know it's expensive, but you'd do yourself a service by installing a roller camshaft.
How are you going to deal with the stuck distributor? Heat? Ice? Heat & ice? Or just brute force until it breaks loose? Are you going to pull the engine and totally disassemble it?
How are you going to deal with the stuck distributor? Heat? Ice? Heat & ice? Or just brute force until it breaks loose? Are you going to pull the engine and totally disassemble it?
Thread Starter
|
Tuned
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 403
Likes: 36
Good to hear from you again! Hard to access those photos. Weird. The only bad thing I noticed, besides the distributor, was the usual wonky wear on the flat tappet camshaft. Did you check tension on the pushrods, on base circle? Are any of the lifters collapsed? I assume since the lifters are still in, you don't want to pull them out through the top. I don't like to pull flat tappet lifters out from the top either. There's usually at least one lifter that has a mushroomed edge that'll score the crap out of the lifter bore. I know it's expensive, but you'd do yourself a service by installing a roller camshaft.
How are you going to deal with the stuck distributor? Heat? Ice? Heat & ice? Or just brute force until it breaks loose? Are you going to pull the engine and totally disassemble it?
How are you going to deal with the stuck distributor? Heat? Ice? Heat & ice? Or just brute force until it breaks loose? Are you going to pull the engine and totally disassemble it?
Thread Starter
|
Tuned
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 403
Likes: 36
My mechanic gently used a CV joint slide hammer to get my dizzy out.
$159
https://www.amazon.com/Puller-Hammer.../dp/B08XLMN1LM
$48
https://www.amazon.com/Puller-Hammer...-2-spons&psc=1
$159
https://www.amazon.com/Puller-Hammer.../dp/B08XLMN1LM
$48
https://www.amazon.com/Puller-Hammer...-2-spons&psc=1
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2018
Posts: 7,892
Likes: 2,370
Soak the distributor with FREE or something similar and pound on it some to try to loosen it. about half the time they break if they've sat for year so don't be surprised.
Forget talking to Comp. call Brent Lykins at Lykins motorsport's and have him custom spec you a new roller cam. and yes they're worth every penny over a flat tappet.
Forget talking to Comp. call Brent Lykins at Lykins motorsport's and have him custom spec you a new roller cam. and yes they're worth every penny over a flat tappet.
More Turbo
Joined: Mar 2022
Posts: 704
Likes: 216
Were you able to remove the intake without removing the dizzy? I am going to be removing my intake soon to replace a couple of lifters and push rods.
Trending Topics
Thread Starter
|
Tuned
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 403
Likes: 36
Soak the distributor with FREE or something similar and pound on it some to try to loosen it. about half the time they break if they've sat for year so don't be surprised.
Forget talking to Comp. call Brent Lykins at Lykins motorsport's and have him custom spec you a new roller cam. and yes they're worth every penny over a flat tappet.
Forget talking to Comp. call Brent Lykins at Lykins motorsport's and have him custom spec you a new roller cam. and yes they're worth every penny over a flat tappet.
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
3 Best / 3 Worst Parts of Modern Ford Ownership
Brett Foote
10 Amazing Upgrades That Solve Common Ford Truck Owner Headaches
Pouria Savadkouei
Every 2026 Ford Engine Explained
Brett Foote
10 Ugly Ford Trucks That We Still Kinda Love
Joe Kucinski
10 Things Every Truck Owner NEEDS (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Most Expensive Ford Trucks Ever Sold on Bring a Trailer
Joe Kucinski
2027 Ford Super Duty Buyer's Guide (Every Model, Engine, & Package)
Brett Foote
Top 10 Ford Truck Tragedies
Joe Kucinski
Thread Starter
|
Tuned
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 403
Likes: 36
I broke off the upper portion of it. I got it out this morning....it broke AGAIN as well before I got it all out. If yours hasn't been out in ages, figure on it biting the dust honestly. You can get that intake off with the top portion of the dizzy broken off. Makes it pretty easy...lol
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2018
Posts: 7,892
Likes: 2,370
A custom roller cam is the best upgrade you can buy in my opinion. after I tried the first one I'll never use anything else.
there's no way to get the ramp profiles in a flat tappet you can in a roller. and I don't miss the chit show of breaking in a flat tappet then checking your oil for the next 5k hoping not to see shiny bits in it. done with that noise.
there's no way to get the ramp profiles in a flat tappet you can in a roller. and I don't miss the chit show of breaking in a flat tappet then checking your oil for the next 5k hoping not to see shiny bits in it. done with that noise.
Grumpy goat
Joined: May 2017
Posts: 3,058
Likes: 596
My neck of the woods...well...east of me that is. But I will give him a shout. I haven't written off changing the cam type over. I know it will make my life a lot easier in many ways. Money in the grand scheme of things is marginal when it is compared to the value/quality added.
Grumpy goat
Joined: May 2017
Posts: 3,058
Likes: 596
I'm a little curious as to why you're doing all that with the engine still on the frame. Even with the work of removing the engine, this whole project would go much easier, and quicker with the engine on a stand.
If I went so far as to pull the cylinder heads on an old engine, I'd want to at a minimum, totally clean the block and crankshaft oil galleries, and install new bearings, rings, and oil pump. And the engine would need to be removed for that.
If I went so far as to pull the cylinder heads on an old engine, I'd want to at a minimum, totally clean the block and crankshaft oil galleries, and install new bearings, rings, and oil pump. And the engine would need to be removed for that.
Thread Starter
|
Tuned
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 403
Likes: 36
I'm a little curious as to why you're doing all that with the engine still on the frame. Even with the work of removing the engine, this whole project would go much easier, and quicker with the engine on a stand.
If I went so far as to pull the cylinder heads on an old engine, I'd want to at a minimum, totally clean the block and crankshaft oil galleries, and install new bearings, rings, and oil pump. And the engine would need to be removed for that.
If I went so far as to pull the cylinder heads on an old engine, I'd want to at a minimum, totally clean the block and crankshaft oil galleries, and install new bearings, rings, and oil pump. And the engine would need to be removed for that.
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2018
Posts: 7,892
Likes: 2,370
Still having some hone marks doesn't necessarily mean your bore is good. I've seen bores with bad taper and still see some hone marks.
If your crank needs any work you're going to have to pull the engine anyway. I'd do whatever it takes to get it out. it needs tanked and you want new freeze plugs, cam bearings and all anyway.
If you're not going for a radical build the roller cam only requires the cam, roller lifters and a bronze or hardened distributor gear. new push rods of course but chances are if you surface and deck you're going to need those to adjust preload anyway. your stock rockers will work as is.
If your crank needs any work you're going to have to pull the engine anyway. I'd do whatever it takes to get it out. it needs tanked and you want new freeze plugs, cam bearings and all anyway.
If you're not going for a radical build the roller cam only requires the cam, roller lifters and a bronze or hardened distributor gear. new push rods of course but chances are if you surface and deck you're going to need those to adjust preload anyway. your stock rockers will work as is.