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Is the sensor port in @Pjuhl2313 's first photo a decent spot for a mechanical temp gauge hookup? It looks like an easy spot to put a fitting, but would the readings be accurate? I'm thinking probably not.
I don't mean to hijack the thread, l'm trying to get all my factory stuff working too.. But l want to run redundant temp and oil pressure gauges, both mechanical. Having the factory stuff working properly is more of a vanity project... l just think it's cool when all the old stuff works, useful or not.
Oh no you drank the other Dave's kool-aid
If that spot works for 5he factory gauge why not aftermarket?
Now know you can't use a tee like the oil set up as the sender end has to be in the hot liquid to read right so where will put the second sender to read right?
Can't put it in the Tstat housing as it will not read right.
If the stat fails closed and motor over heats you will never know as the sender is not reading hot liquid.
Dave ----
Ok, after looking at the wiring diagram I found the wire. Of course the switch connect is gone and it's just a bare wire. Besides Ebay, anyone know if a place like Lowes or AutoZone carries a generic like this? I enclosed a pic from the oil pressure switch.
Edit: I am going to replace the temp sensor and it comes with a wire hook up from Rockauto. I'll install after and update.
Slow down there speedy
Have you tested the system to see if the gauge & wire are good? Ground that wire and turn the key on if the gauge moves system is good.
Now the sender is threaded just find a nut that fits it and a crimp wire eyelet end for the wire.
Put the eyelet on the wire the wire on sender and tighten the nut down.
If lucky and the sender works the gauge will work too and no need to get new sender & wire end.
Dave ----
Oh no you drank the other Dave's kool-aid
If that spot works for 5he factory gauge why not aftermarket?
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The aftermarket gauge is mechanical and doesn't use a sending unit like the factory electric gauge does. Same deal w the oil pressure gauge... l did look for electric gauges, just to make the installation easier, but didn't find any that l liked.
TBH, l guess l didn't take a good enough look at the picture because l thought it was in the water neck, just like you mentioned. At a closer look it appears to be a heater hose but even so, it was a sensor feeding data to the computer, not the temp gauge. I also doubt that there's enough depth to plumb the mech gauge's bulb down in there. I'll have to give it a look when l get home.
Maybe l could put a sending unit there and use the hole in the block to plumb the mech gauge...?
The aftermarket gauge is mechanical and doesn't use a sending unit like the factory electric gauge does. Same deal w the oil pressure gauge... l did look for electric gauges, just to make the installation easier, but didn't find any that l liked.
TBH, l guess l didn't take a good enough look at the picture because l thought it was in the water neck, just like you mentioned. At a closer look it appears to be a heater hose but even so, it was a sensor feeding data to the computer, not the temp gauge. I also doubt that there's enough depth to plumb the mech gauge's bulb down in there. I'll have to give it a look when l get home.
Maybe l could put a sending unit there and use the hole in the block to plumb the mech gauge...?
The mechanical dose have a bulb sender that needs to be in liquid to work.
The factory sender is in the side of the block to work right.
The sender that was in the tstat neck was for the computer and un-till the motor got up to temp did not care if it was reading right.
A gauge you need to see if over heating needs to read good all the time.
Dave ----
The spot in the picture below will be perfect for your mechanical temp gauge. The computer monitored the temp at all times, and it should also have enough room for the probe of the mechanical gauge. You will just need to get the correct thread adapter for the probe. Some gauge kits give you all kinds of adapters in the kit, some only give you one. But they have others at the store or you can use a plumbing fitting to adapt it if you need to.
The mechanical dose have a bulb sender that needs to be in liquid to work.
The factory sender is in the side of the block to work right.
The sender that was in the tstat neck was for the computer and un-till the motor got up to temp did not care if it was reading right.
A gauge you need to see if over heating needs to read good all the time.
Dave ----
l got home and took a look at my (current) setup... it's the same as @Pjuhl2313 , just oriented to vertical. There's plenty of depth for the mech temp gauge bulb but, like you said (and l alluded to), it's not a suitable spot.
The spot in the picture below will be perfect for your mechanical temp gauge. The computer monitored the temp at all times, and it should also have enough room for the probe of the mechanical gauge. You will just need to get the correct thread adapter for the probe. Some gauge kits give you all kinds of adapters in the kit, some only give you one. But they have others at the store or you can use a plumbing fitting to adapt it if you need to.
Dave do tell me how it can "be perfect" when the stat is closed and the hot coolant is on the other side?
Remember the computer only needed to know when to go into open loop when the stat opened up and the hot coolant hit the computer sender.
If he was to install a gauge probe there and the stat was to stick closed he would never know it till it was to late and really over heated the motor maybe cracking a head and blowing a head gasket.
For temp gauge reading that is not the place to take it at in my book.
Dave ----
This it? Also no wire that I'm seeing. Anyone got a part number for a replacement wire attachment?
What wire attachment? The sending unit is supposed to have that stud. Take the elbow shaped plug on the end of the wire in your hand (shown below) and push it onto the stud. Done.
Originally Posted by Pjuhl2313
Ok, after looking at the wiring diagram I found the wire. Of course the switch connect is gone and it's just a bare wire. Besides Ebay, anyone know if a place like Lowes or AutoZone carries a generic like this? I enclosed a pic from the oil pressure switch.
Edit: I am going to replace the temp sensor and it comes with a wire hook up from Rockauto. I'll install after and update.
As was already stated a couple times. Ground out that wire with the key on to see if the needle pegs to full hot or put back on the sending unit and see if the gauge starts working.
The elbow wire shown in the pic is from the oil pressure switch. I posted it to ask where I could get a replacement.
My mistake. When you mentioned a bare wire I thought you were saying there should be more than that end. I didn’t realize that was for the oil pressure sending unit. Did you ground the bare wire to check the wiring and gauge? I would not worry about having that exact terminal end. Find a round barrel style terminal and install it on the wire.
Or just rip out that lousy factory gauge system and install a mechanical gauge instead. One with numbers on the dial, so you know it’s accurate.
On an unrelated note, my doctor put me on a new medication. It’s great not to hear the voices anymore. Others have reported strange side effects, but not me. Never felt better.
Tested the wire to ground and gauge moved when truck started. I put an eye terminal on and am letting the truck run now to see if the temp sensor is good. Will update. Thanks all.
Yeah, if the original push on connector is detached or un usable then the eyelet between two nuts is how they used to be connected a few years back. Some had a 90 degree end bootie. Put a little anti corrosive on the tight connection and slip on the boot.
The push on connector was likely a value engineering upgrade...in other words a money saving move eliminating parts and labor. Even a robot can plug them in using 1/2 second of labor.
if they stop fitting tight you can wrap the stud with a thin copper cone you can fab from a #12 house wire pounded flat. Make a small cone and put that on the stud and push the connector on again.
So I took the truck out and drove it at highway speeds to run to tractor supply and back, bout a 20 minute round trip. The gauge moved slightly, never got past the "lower" notch of normal. Dunno if that just means temp was low or sensor is bad.
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The sending unit is supposed to have that stud. Take the elbow shaped plug on the end of the wire in your hand (shown below) and push it onto the stud. Done.
