Hi, Ive been scouring about everything I can think of to find the wiring color code for the rear lights on a 2013 f-150....Im trying to find the running lights and the brake lights to splice in a DCU style camper shell that has led rear brake and running lights.
Any help would be appreciated!

 

PARK LAMP - YE-GN
L. STOP/TURN - GY-BN
R. STOP/TURN - VT-OG

 

Hi Project, Thanks!
On the camper shell Im only using the the running lights and the brake lights, no signal lights. Are these the same colors to tap into?

 

Turn and stop lights are the same wires, controlled individually for turn signal function and activated simultaneously for stop lamp function. Same logic as trailer lights. There is no single stop lamp circuit unless you create one or run a wire from up front.

Your lights on your cap will need to sort out the separation. You can add a 2 to 3 wire converter for this. Make sure your cap uses LEDs, not incandescent bulbs otherwise you'll like trip the FET protection in the SJB/BCM.

 

13 has a BCM not an SJB. Same principle though.

 

Oh crap my head hurts now!
so even with LED lights I cant have just running lights and brake lights, by simply splicing in? So if I do splice them in they will do funky things like flash with the turn signals, or trip something out etc?
OK, if I were going to run them separately from the front, I'm assuming I could obtain some kind of intermitten switch, like a brake light switch and find a way to mount it to the brake pedal works. And a use a constant hot wire ( when the engine is running) to power just the running lights and the brake lights?
I don't care about the turn signals working on the cap...or even if it even has them.
this three to two wire converter, you're speaking of, if that would streamline things for me,, which one woukd you reccomend?

 

Check out www.etrailer.com

 

Double post

 

Instead of the tail light harnesses, I would tap into the (4 or 7 pin) trailer connector, the extra load of LED's / incandescent lights should NOT affect the blinker rate. function.

 

If I can get just brake and night time running lights I will be happy. Since I am limited on electrical wiring knowledge ( aka Stoooopid) Im going to take care of the brake lights by adding a brake pedal switch and tying it to the battery with a fuse in line and running the wire to the camper shell. That leaves my night time running lights. Since I dont want any turn signal activity on the camper shell ( letting the standard truck wiring and turn signals do that) , is there a way to tap into a running light wire without it being on a turn signal circuit? Everything Im seeing about wire conversions are seemingly showing those turn signals being tied back in. which Im trying to avoid)

As a side note I did consider doing the 7 pin harness tie in, but figured it would recognize it as a trailer, and then when I actually did hook up the camper, I might let some magic smoke out of the wiring somewhere and from what I understand, its hard to get the magic smoke back in, once its been let out.

 

A new powered wire, brake pedal switch run thru the cab and all the way back to the lights in a way to prevent chaffing is especially complicated especially for someone claiming to have limited electrical knowledge.
SInce you don't want to use the 7 pin connector and ONLY want brake lights I suggest you tap into the 3rd brake light circuit, (it does not flash on turn signals)using a relay to prevent overloading it.

 

When I wired in my tailgate light bar I used the 4 pin trailer connector. Works like a dream, has running/brake and turn.

 

Hi I have limited electrical knowledge, not complete ignorance of it.I wanted to use a trailer connector, but I wasnt sure if the lights on the shell were made to handle the turn signal too, so I opted out of turn signals and just went for running and brake lights.So I figured it would do funky things if a turn signal was introduced to it such as the brake lights flashing while stopped and trying to turn or popping a fuse etc ( the limited electrical knowledge at work here) But I did finally get it resolved yesterday evening.
After more scouring of the internet, I came across two individuals who found an auxiliary wire; up front drivers side, between the brake booster and overflow bottle, more or less attached to the fender wall. This blue and orange wire came out of the wiring harness and was capped off. I put a light probe on the wire....nothing, then I applied the brake pedal with a piece of wood ( one man operation here with this monkey show) and probed the wire again and viola the probe light came on....The individual who demonstrated this was also trying to wire up the third brake light.So I ran the wiring and tucked everything away with zip ties, So I was one down and one to go, I still had the running lights to deal with. If finally hit me that I could tap off of my license plate lights, which I did and now I have brake, and running lights. I know this is kinda cobbled together.
Now Im not bashing ford here but if that auxiliary wire was intended for a camper shell third light etc, why have it under the hood? When I was on the dark side with a Ram, they had a small purple wire poking out of the harness near the rear bumper for this.

 

Yeah, I was going to mention that wire yesterday but the phone rang and I got sidetracked.

Just be aware that it's fused at only 5A (plenty for a stoplamp) fed directly off the brake pedal position (BPP) switch. That same sub-circuit also feeds into the Trailer Brake Controller (TBC) module, if installed, to tell it the pedal has been pressed. If no TBC, no worries. If you have a TBC and the braking signal function stops working, suspect a blown fuse (BCM F31) along with a wiring fault to the cap's stop lamp.

 

Thank you so much! I do have a trailer brake controller and will keep and eye out for it! Each tail light lamp has about 10 Led's in it and hopefully Im not approaching 5 amps! Hopefully, it it does goes, its a fuse only and nothing else! If that does happen I will go the route of a 4 way trailer connector I guess!