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Hi, I’m gonna try to explain my problem to the best of my ability, I started my truck in my driveway and went inside for a couple minutes, went back out it was running fine, got In started to get everything ready to go, seatbelt,etc all of a sudden the truck started missing I think and running rough, fortunately I had my data log going and it showed that bank #2 the computer was taking away 25% fuel to that bank, the other bank was doing as it should, I thought to myself maybe it’s just cold so I started my drive slowly and got to a red light, and the truck is now running at 300 rpm, shuddering and everything, limped it into the nearest parking lot, shut it off and started it back up, ran fine, truck is 2003 ford f250 super duty v10 160,000 miles and has been well cared for, no cel , coils could be the culprit haven’t been change in a while same with plugs
This might be an issue with the wiring harness from the PCM to Bank #2's COP and fuel injector array. You may need to inspect that harness from the COP's & Injectors back to the PCM.
If the COP's fail you'll have a DTC from P0301 through P0310 in your case of the V10.
This might be an issue with the wiring harness from the PCM to Bank #2's COP and fuel injector array. You may need to inspect that harness from the COP's & Injectors back to the PCM.
If the COP's fail you'll have a DTC from P0301 through P0310 in your case of the V10.
Forgot to mention I pulled the data log when I got home and it showed that as bank#2 was getting fuel taken away the o2 sensor for that bank was counting up like it was still warming up, it was around 0.15v which for my truck means that it is running lean, so the computer was taking away fuel that it shouldn’t have been
Yes it could indeed but at this point there's no reason to suspect that as causing your issues. If the F-Series experience the same sort of problems with OEM wiring as my E-Series have those would be my first suspects. I've heard and read far more stories of failed wiring than I have PCM problems.
BTW COP's do NOT need to be changed "just because" where spark plugs IMHO are best changed at 50K. Despite the claims they're still good up to 100K I've never been comfortable with such a lengthy interval. The plugs can be difficult to remove after that long installed but more importantly the boots need to be inspected and plug torque checked at the 50K interval minimum.