Hi , I've a 1995 F350 7.3 PSD . I had a bad oil cooler leak. I was driving my truck and at the stop light the engine just died. It started up and drove fine. Next day went out to drive away, and it wouldn't start. I checked the oil level and found it extremely low. I topped off the oil and still no go. I checked the high pressure oil pump reservoir and it had oil, down from top maybe 1 inch. After sitting over night I checked again and found the same level next morning. The truck started after a couple tries then died as if running out of fuel. Then would not start any more. I bought the oil cooler and both end caps. Put the cooler in, new oil , filter, coolant was like brand new so I put it back in. While checking things I'd read here, I found the IPR nut was loose. I tightened it and the truck started and ran a little rough. I just ran it for like 30 seconds and shut it down. I thought all was well, started to put tools away and decided to start it one more time. It did not start. I decided to order a new IPR. Waiting for it, I began to drain the HPOP reservoir and found gray oil. The oil cooler black front O-ring broke during assembly. I changed the IPR, new cooler o-rings and gaskets, flushed the cooling system with the -t- in heater core line and garden hose. New oil filter and oil. Added some simple green to clean the coolant system, but the truck WILL NOT START. My plan is to clean out the coolant system and oil system then add new fluids and filters. I can't get the truck to start. I have good starter, batteries, new IPR, new CPS,. I grabbed the ICP from my 97 F250, and tried it, still no start. Am I missing something? Is there something special I should have done when installing the IPR?
Thanks for any input!!!
CJ

 

Looky here bub -

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Byb...1qRU1VVGc/view

 

If you had water in the oil it won't start till its purged . When it "is" running you are going to have air in the HP system. It will take some time . If you can get access to a scanner , it will help narrow it down. IPR DC & ICP pressure reported . .How much oil did you have to add originally ?

 

When the original no start happened. The oil level was down about 4 quarts, if I remember correctly. The only thing I have is a Bosch 1200 code reader type scanner and it’s not connecting to my 1995. I believe it’s suited for 1996 and up.

A friend of mine says he may have access to a 4000 psi oil gauge and I’m wondering if I pulled one of the plugs out of the left oil rail, couldn’t I screw the gauge into the port and crank it up and register the oil pressure in the rail?

I have drained the water and oil from the motor. Added fresh oil and filter (knowing I need to change the oil again). Also, currently I have tap water and simple green in the cooling system, with hopes of starting the truck and trying to break down and flush any remaining oil in the cooling system out. The flush with lots of distilled water and eventually add my new coolant.

I’m just unable to start the engine to do this stuff.
Thanks for the help.
CJ

 

AIR in the injection system can make for some very long cranks to get going again

30 sec crank, 5 min wait then repeat a few times

 

Ok I'm Back. Still no start on my truck. I've tried and tried the cranking, no luck.
I've been having trouble getting a scanner to connect to the OBDII. It keeps saying check the connection. Is it possible the PCM is the culprit?
When I finally got it to read something, it showed two codes. P1280: Injector Control Pressure Error. I've installed a brand new one from Riff Raff. Thinking now maybe the pigtail, but it looks really clean like brand new and I did use electrical connection cleaner on both ends. and all these connections mentioned here.

The other code was : P0198 Engine Oil Temperature Sensor High Input. I've checked the I.C.P. and its plug, no oil there anywhere, it all looks good. It's the code that throws me off, thinking it is bad? I'm not sure how to or if I can check the ICP some other way?

I bought a fuel pressure gauge from Harbor Freight and hooked it to the Schrader valve on the Fuel Regulator. The fuel gauge slowly worked its way up bouncing from like 40 to 50 psi. while cranking. Does this sound about right?

At the same time I attached a high pressure 4000psi liquid gauge from the H.P.O.P. to the left Head oil rail port where the original line was attached. I didn't seem to get a reading from the oil pressure gauge.
The low oil or non-existent oil pressure reading has me thinking bad HPOP. I'm wondering if I shouldn't have gotten some sort of pressure reading even if small?
I've seen the o ring kits at Riff Raff, I'm sure I could pull it apart and add the rings. Would rebuilding the HPOP ,(changing out the o-rings) make that much of a difference? Maybe there is another way to check the pressure?

Also, is there a way to try and get air out of the oil rails, system and fuel injector passages when I can't start the motor? I'm wondering if air in these systems might be part of my problems?

Thanks for any input.
CJ

 

High pressure oil pumps rarely fail suddenly . Leave it for now . Check both heads with the gauge. There are hex ports on both sides of the oil rails in the heads . Sounds like you removed the feed line on the left head that comes from the pump . Put it back on and use a different port . If I recall correctly , there are 3 more on each side & get a scanner that can read engine data . Its sounds like an injector o ring on one side or the other The gauge will tell you (if that is the case) when you hook it up correctly . (Just a guess) ..

Kind of hard to help without data . SO far its not fuel , its not the oil cooler Not the IPR ,CPS not the ICP ,or the wiring . We had a poster here not long ago that got a new faulty IPR .

Don't worry about the PCM yet.

We may have a member near you that can scan the truck for you & post ICP called for & IPR DC actual . You haven't mentioned temps where you live . Any smoke when cranking?Are the GP's working ? Does the WTS light come on & go off or is it on real dim ?Have you checked all the fuses ?

The way these things work is , key on , WTS light ,GP's on , start cranking , ICP reports to PCM what it is seeing as far as ICP pressure , then the PCM sends a ground pulse to the IPR telling it how much to stay closed & for how long. You already have a full HP pump that is obviously being replenished from the LPOP.

 

no oil pressure from HPOP. Check IPR tinnerman nut for looseness and check its wires through the loom for breaks

 

Just a WAG here . There is a large plug on the side of the fuel bowl you may have left unplugged while doing the IPR .

 

A couple quick answers to your questions Action4478. I'm in the Denver metro area of Colorado. Weather here is very dry and its warm. No need for plugging the truck in quite yet. I've only 166,000 miles on it and its 1995. Original owner and everything is stock except for the Y pipes and the air-filtering system. The wiring and entire truck is in fantastic shape in comparison to many this old out there.

I attempted to remove two of the head plugs on the right side (as Suggested)and do the pressure check there, only to find the size of the ?plug port is smaller then my friends gauge and hose system. Not having the time after work to track down fittings, I decided to tie directly straight into the HPOP. I capped off the line from the Right Head and attached the gauge direct the HPOP where the line attached. I expected to at minimum get some sort of a reading, maybe say like 1500 psi.? Instead I got nothing, the gauge never moved. I did install the new IPR and the Tinner Nut is tight.

I'm leaning towards the thought that maybe the oil level having been so low from the Oil cooler leak, maybe I toasted the HPOP over time. It would be of great help i anyone has a breakdown of the inner workings / diagram of the HPOP? Also the plug on the fuel bowl is plugged in. That one for I belive the heater and another small l shaped plug are both plugged in.

What are your thoughts about the dead heading the HPOP test with the gauge? I should have recorded something. yes?

Thanks CJ

 

dead head should have shown something
HPOP is hard to kill even with low oil since the HEUI injectors shut down with a tiny amount of air

Check engine oil level again
95 is known to get a crack in the LPOP suction tube, you can add in 2 extra quarts or jack the rear up if on an incline to get the oil to suck up again

oil path in this thread
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...questions.html

 

You can dead head the pump , to check the pump The other side will register ICP ,( it is usually done to check injector O rings at no start) but you will need a gauge at the end .( on edit I see you did that ) Do both sides separately The PCM cant tell what ICP is with the line blocked ( missed the part about the gauge ) .This will also tell you if the IPR is working .The Injectors cannot report to the PCM what they are getting . My truck runs a gallon low too every once in a while , no issues . GP's are needed all year for a reason . The only control for them is oil temp (on time) . Don't drop your oil pan just yet .Didn't you say you replaced the IPR ?In a previous post it said you attached a gauge to the port in the head .............

 

ok, what I did was removed the left high pressure hose from the left head and the h.p.o.p. connector. Then I attached one high pressure hose to the head, then another to the h.p.o.p., those attached together with a T, and the gauge was attached to the T. Thus, allowing the oil to flow through the hoses and watched for a psi reading. I didn't get anything. Because the other oil rail plugs are smaller then the fitting for my gauge and hose, I couldn't attached to any of them. So, I decided to go direct from the h.p.o.p. to the gauge. I did so by removing the right high pressure hose from the h.p.o.p, then capped the end of the line and attached the gauge and hose direct to that port on the h.p.o.p.. I got no readings there also. I expected to at least see low pressure, but not, NO pressure. After several cranks of the motor the dash gauge will come to center but that takes quite a long time. Much more then normal. I have replaced the IPR and the Tinner Nut is tight.

I'm about to bite the bullet and pop for the hpop, but that looks like I'm going to have to send my core in and there's going to be a big delay getting it back. If there's not much to the pump, I can buy the o rings and replace them myself. I'm just not sure what is inside the h.p.o.p. that might need to be addressed other then the o-rings? Also, I'm planning to replace these pigtails; IPR, ICP, even though mine look very healthy. Also, the ICP Sensor and the EOT sending unit and pigtail. I'm wondering if it might help to drain the oil rails or maybe flush them with clean oil? If I remember right I can pull the end cap and drain them, then fill them again.
Thanks CJ

 

I'm kind of stumped on this one . When you crank the engine the PCM is waiting to hear from the ICP sensor to tell the IPR how much to close .EOT comes into play here also for the gp's.. The LPOP is mechanical , so is the HPOP. The HPOP res is full so the LPOP is working . If the PCM does not see ICP , it commands the IPR to close completely until it sees pressure . When the PCM starts to see what is called for it begins to open (in pulses) the IPR till it sees what it is asking for based on the TPS . . Before you do anything more I think you need to get a proper scanner to measure IPR DC ( around 65% is max) and if you are seeing ICP climb while cranking . If ICP does not increase, the IPR may still be open or there may be a bad injector Oring . IF you have a CEL . that would be an electical issue . ( injector wiring ) .

I can't see how this all started from low oil .

As far as I know we don't have an engine oil high temperature sensor . We have 2 oil pressure sensors , one for the dash gauge and the other is the ICP . We do have an oil temp sensor on the back if the HPOP. It helps the PCM to decide how much fuel to add based on EOT . If you have a HP oil leak , blocking one HP line at a time helps to tell which side to look at . The truck will run on 4 ( not well ) but will run . I have never seen no HP oil pressure from a failed ( suddenly) HPOP unless the bolt on the drive gear failed .

Sorry for now . I'm at a loss .

I posted here somewhere that someone had a brand new IPR that didn't work .

Get a scanner that works . we need to see some actual data .

If anyone else can help I am all for it .

 

During that time, HPOP isnt getting any oil to start to develop pressure