Master cylinder conversion

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Sep 17, 2022 | 09:23 PM

CJMOStang

Thread Starter

Mountain Pass

Joined: Sep 2017

Posts: 100

Likes: 67

Master cylinder conversion

I’ve got my ‘49 F1 running and moving on its own power with my rebuilt 8BA and clutch and 3 speed that was in good shape. Now I need to make him stop. I’ve rebuilt the back brakes and have emergency brakes working. I’m going to get a front disc kit (best affordable kit would also be appreciated info) but I’m going to start with a new master cylinder conversion. I’ve got a 66 mustang that I converted to front discs without power because with the manual tranny it’s a lot of extra expense to convert to hydraulic clutch because of clearances and it made it awesome to drive once converted to dual cylinder with a prop valve.

With my ‘49 is it worth it to pay for the booster and is there enough vacuum to make a difference. Right now I was thinking of switching to a a dual master manual and hoping it was as good of an experience as the Stang-

any device and experience would be much appreciated

Sep 18, 2022 | 08:20 AM

bjmayberry2

Lead Driver

Joined: Dec 2012

Posts: 9,717

Likes: 823

From: Wentzville, MO

Just my 2¢ worth, but don't buy the barebones kit and then buy rotors, calipers.... Same with your master cylinder. I've done both conversations on two of my trucks and with the bare bones kits I've had some kind of issue that made me end up paying MORE than if I'd just bought the whole kit that's engineered to work together. Stick with CPP or one of the name brand kits. Yeah, they're more pricey but you'll have someone you can call and ask questions to. Those eBay, etc kits are made God knows where and have absolutely no technical support.

Sep 18, 2022 | 01:21 PM

ALBUQ F-1

Fleet Owner

Joined: Jul 2004

Posts: 27,294

Likes: 1,055

From: NM

BJ is spot on, and I'd add that a MC for 4 drums will not be ideal for a disc/drum setup. Discs need a different residual pressure valve.