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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

Fuel Pump/Pressure Problem?

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Old Sep 7, 2022 | 06:17 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by kr98664
I’m no carb expert. To me, a carb is a calibrated leak sitting on the intake manifold.

The engine seemed to accelerate okay, but then it hit a brick wall and would rev no higher. Could that be a power valve? Does the 2150 2bbl even have one? Is there a way to test it if so equipped?
Unfortunately I’m no carb expert either. I had a 78 f250 when I was in high school and I don’t remember all the details other than I had power loss when it was under load and it ended up being the accelerator pump. I believe it was a little diaphragm that the throttle linkage pushed on but that was 20 years ago so I could be wrong. Sorry… like I said just kinda tossing some ideas out.
 
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Old Sep 7, 2022 | 06:51 PM
  #17  
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2150 carb definitely has a power valve. Seems like that could be the issue but I am no expert.
ETA: with the truck loaded as it was, it seems feasible that you were into the power valve more than usual. If it was weak, that could cause some form of failure. However, that doesn't explain the return to normal after the "washboard run.
 
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Old Sep 7, 2022 | 07:49 PM
  #18  
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You said the washboard road seemed to fix it at least temporarily. Could it be the float is sticking? I'm thinking sudden heavy load may let the bowl empty at bit, and rather than the float dropping and letting free flow of fuel, it stays at the happy, high, low load position. The bowl drains some, and it behaves like the float is mis-set. Low bowl level means less fuel intake. Testing is easy: next time it happens, pull over and give the bowl a few solid raps. That usually will loosen it up. If that fixes it for a while, you'll have found the problem.
 
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Old Sep 8, 2022 | 12:32 AM
  #19  
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I could see a bad power valve or maybe a clogged main jet, but my fuel delivery problems have generally felt like running out of gas. Sputtering and cutting out. Feather the throttle for a minute to let the fuel bowl fill back up, and power is restored until the bowl is drained and it’s sputtering again. Try to push harder on the throttle when it’s sputtering and it’ll die.

Could the choke be closing?

Do you have a tach? What’s it doing when you’re losing power, Is it steady or bouncing around?

Otherwise FWIW:

Do you have an EGR? Maybe there’s a malfunction there that’s diluting your mixture with exhaust gasses at the wrong time.

Popping out the exhaust? Retarded ignition timing can cause it to run hot and lose power. Maybe the vacuum advance arm got disconnected from the pickup plate and the timing is off?

Dragging brakes on the truck or tow vehicle?

You already changed the coil. The Duraspark box could be acting up and changing it to a known good unit is about the only test. And it’s easier to try than changing out the pickup inside the dizzy.

 
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Old Sep 8, 2022 | 06:17 AM
  #20  
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When the power valve fails, the engine will run noticeably rich. Failure it the diaphragm tearing. The only other failure which would be very rare would be a clogged passage to the power valve.

You could very well have some dirt in the bottom of the carb, and it can partially clog one or both main jets. You just have to pull the top of the carb off and have a look.
 
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Old Sep 8, 2022 | 07:02 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Franklin2
When the power valve fails, the engine will run noticeably rich…
Doh! Another little clue that escaped my mind:

When engine power was reduced, and I had to downshift, I was getting a light popping sound from the exhaust when I stepped on the clutch and let off the gas. Never had that before.

Also noticed the same light popping when compression braking down a hill. Never had that, either.

Sorry I forgot to mention these clues. Kinda had a lot on my mind, trying to nurse the truck home while switching to Plan B to salvage a little residual fun on this trip. The mechanic in me finds it hard to relax when I just want to fix it. At the same time, I know better than to tear apart the carb under less than ideal circumstances, especially since the engine seems quite capable of getting us safely home.

I have read up a bit on the power valve. Not super easy to diagnose, but most of the symptoms sound similar. It’s one of the first things I’ll check when I get home. Finding fuel on the dry side of the diaphragm would mean I’m on the right trail. I’ve got one on the way just in case.

 
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Old Sep 8, 2022 | 07:20 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by Brnfree
I could see a bad power valve or maybe a clogged main jet, but my fuel delivery problems have generally felt like running out of gas. Sputtering and cutting out…
Nope, nothing like that. Never any sputtering or feeling like the engine would die. Just a lack of oomph at higher RPM when the load was a little higher If I had been on a 45 MPH road I’d have never noticed anything wrong.

No EGR, blocked off with a plate when I closed off the exhaust crossover passage in the intake manifold.

Tach was steady during all this.

Thought about dragging brakes, but hadn’t noticed anything such as when coasting. I’ve had brakes drag on other occasions, and it was quite noticeable.
 
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Old Sep 8, 2022 | 06:08 PM
  #23  
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Covered about 120 miles today. Did just fine cruising around 70, but still had a sluggish band from approximately 50-60. Above or below that you’d never know there was a problem. Still scratching my head over this one.

One additional clue, if it means anything. When in that sluggish band, I noticed a loud resonant droning, apparently from the exhaust. Once I got above 60, things quieted down dramatically. Throttle position had virtually no effect. The droning did stop with my foot off the gas, but otherwise the noise was consistent from 1/8 to full throttle. It wasn’t like the noise increased the wider you opened the throttle. The noise was either off or on. Jog anybody’s memory?
 
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Old Sep 8, 2022 | 07:59 PM
  #24  
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You have a cat on the truck but I think not because of the GVWR?
How old is the muffler?
I have seen them plug up either from a cat that falls apart and gets trapped in the muffler.
The other is a baffle in the muffler that broke and is now blocking flow.
Sometimes you can bang on the muffler and if it rattles the baffle may be broken.
Dave ----
 
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Old Sep 9, 2022 | 11:14 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by FuzzFace2
You have a cat on the truck but I think not because of the GVWR?
How old is the muffler?
I have seen them plug up either from a cat that falls apart and gets trapped in the muffler.
The other is a baffle in the muffler that broke and is now blocking flow.
Sometimes you can bang on the muffler and if it rattles the baffle may be broken.
Dave ----

That's where my thoughts are leaning, too.
 
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Old Sep 9, 2022 | 12:02 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by FuzzFace2
You have a cat on the truck but I think not because of the GVWR?
How old is the muffler?
Non-catalyst from the factory. IIRC, this truck was part of the last small wave of vehicles that could take leaded fuel.

The exhaust system seems new in my mind, but when I checked my records that was seven years ago. I will try the tap test as suggested and will figure out how to check backpressure, too.

That resonant drone sure has me confused. That, and the sluggish band. Probably more than one issue going on, who knows.
 
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Old Sep 9, 2022 | 12:35 PM
  #27  
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I just read this thread through. Just for ****s and giggles, I would try cracking the gas cap.
 
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Old Sep 9, 2022 | 12:40 PM
  #28  
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^ good thought there. My lawn tractor needs that every now and then.

Or take off the muffler and drive the truck.
 
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Old Sep 9, 2022 | 11:55 PM
  #29  
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Because you can hit 70 with a camper on flat ground I'm leaning away from clogged exhaust. If it is the problem then it's only a partial block. The drone could be a leak or a plug.

Have you tried clearing the jets by turning in the fuel air mixture screws? Count the turns in and open the same after clearing the orifice.

Also on the grades were you encountering head winds? With a camper that can be a significant factor.
 
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Old Sep 10, 2022 | 05:53 AM
  #30  
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Moving the "idle mix screws" would not do anything because anything above idle the carb is on a different circuit of the carb like high spaad.
Dave. ----
 
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