Fuel Line swap
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Joined: Nov 2003
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Fuel Line swap
The 79 i recently bought has a couple of leaks in the fuel line. I have fixed one of the leaks with a fuel line hose. Now i know i have another one and my friend has a couple of junk 79s some are 150 and i think one is a 150 but i was wondering if i could just take one off the junk truck and put it on mine? Also how much trouble would that be? I also am getting ready to order a new carb and intake and was wondering if i or if it would be easiser to wait to put it all on at once? Or it there is an eaiser solution to this problem that someone could tell me i'll be thankful Trucks are the same length.
Posting Guru
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 2,404
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From: Cleveland, WI USA
I agree. You'll probably find that the juned ones will fall apart when you try to remove them.
I'd just go to a parts store and get either some rubber fuel line or the steel stuff. As said before, it's pretty cheap.
Kevin K.
I'd just go to a parts store and get either some rubber fuel line or the steel stuff. As said before, it's pretty cheap.
Kevin K.
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 114
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As a general rule of thumb, try to use the least amount of rubber line in the fuel system as you can. This will equate to a short section from frame mounted line to engine to compensate for engine movement, and maybe at the fuel tank, depending on how it's set up.
The steel or aluminum line will last for years of service. The rubber line needs regular replacement. To me, the extra dependability and safety is worth the extra work to put hard lines in.
The steel or aluminum line will last for years of service. The rubber line needs regular replacement. To me, the extra dependability and safety is worth the extra work to put hard lines in.
Posting Guru
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 2,404
Likes: 3
From: Cleveland, WI USA
Yeah, metal is definately better for longevity. Alum. would be best simply because of the rust factor with steel. However, I have a single rubber fuel line from the tank to the carb and haven't had problems with it yet. I also have an electric fuel pump in the back by the tank, and no mechanical pump at all.
So far, so good.
Kevin K.
So far, so good.
Kevin K.
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Senior User
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 480
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From: Alabama
BigBully,
Did you just use rubber and clamps to connect to the new al lines, or did you get some fittings to connect everything?
Has anyone tried any braided lines? I need to clean up my lines some in the engine compartment, too much rubber lines. I need to get a line from my mech. pump to a fp regulator mounted on the driverside about where a 2nd battery would go I have a box w/ an msd inside, and the regulator mounted to the outside of it. Then I need to make some lines from the regulator to both the carb inlet tube ( already have a mrgasket metal thing with fp guage on it) and to the fuel solenoid for the nitrous plate.
Though about the al line but wasn't sure how to hook it up to everything. The braided line should work with all the fittings, but its $$$$
Did you just use rubber and clamps to connect to the new al lines, or did you get some fittings to connect everything?
Has anyone tried any braided lines? I need to clean up my lines some in the engine compartment, too much rubber lines. I need to get a line from my mech. pump to a fp regulator mounted on the driverside about where a 2nd battery would go I have a box w/ an msd inside, and the regulator mounted to the outside of it. Then I need to make some lines from the regulator to both the carb inlet tube ( already have a mrgasket metal thing with fp guage on it) and to the fuel solenoid for the nitrous plate.
Though about the al line but wasn't sure how to hook it up to everything. The braided line should work with all the fittings, but its $$$$
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Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 6,625
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From: Albuquerque
A couple of notes of fuel safety. Steel line is best, it basically is forever if it doesn't get smashed. Rubber may deteriorate in 5 years and is not as strong of course. Braided line also has rubber insides and should be replaced every 10 years according to the manufacturer.
Aluminum: I use aluminum but there is one caveat. Remember that it is soft and secure it well. If it rubs on something it will eventually develope a hole. "Adele" type clamps with the rubber insert will also rot leaving metal to metal chaffing.
Anywho, be safe out there. Fix it right and fix it once.
Aluminum: I use aluminum but there is one caveat. Remember that it is soft and secure it well. If it rubs on something it will eventually develope a hole. "Adele" type clamps with the rubber insert will also rot leaving metal to metal chaffing.
Anywho, be safe out there. Fix it right and fix it once.
Posting Guru
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,192
Likes: 1
From: lino lakes, mn
get a tubing bender and some steel line at your auto parts store if you use rubber your just asking for trouble rubber gets hard and breaks or slips off gets pinched or can burst Stainless would be best but it's tuff to bend and expensive
Posting Legend
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 30,255
Likes: 37
You can use a double flaring tool to put a nice "bead" on the end of a tube to retain a hose. Just deform the tube with the first part of the double flaring operation. SS is best but it is harder to form. I would not use aluminum line, it cracks too easy from vibration. Copper tube is a major no-no also.
Posting Legend
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 30,255
Likes: 37
It is just like aluminum and cracks easily. Not something you want for a fuel line. They use aluminum for some AC fittings because the pressure requires some fairly thick walls which helps resist cracking. Plus if it cracks only freon leaks, -not a danger like fuel. Steel or SS is really the only thing to use for fuel lines.
