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What about the Brophy style tie downs that mount in the stake pockets of the truck bed?
Are they still viable players in the camper tie down market?
The PROS appear to be cost and installation. What might be the CONS?
Costs more to switch to Brophies and if he just adds the center bar in the front to what he has, he is ready to go for less than $75.00.
Well, we priced everything out and analyzed the work involved for each. He's not too concerned with price, but wants the safest set up of the three. We may install ourselves (when temps get down to 80F which may not be until October....It'll be 109F today, and probably over 100F for the rest of Sept.)! It's just too damn hot to work outside, even in the shade! If he can't wait, then he'll have them installed.
For HJ:
He would need the 1 stabilizer bar, the 2 end brackets for the stabilizer bar, the 2 L brackets for mounting to floor, and the 2 centering cones which connect to stabilizer bar and center camper when loading. All of these were missing when truck was purchased. Plus the rear chrome bolt heads also need to be purchased and installed, as his current one are mounted on side of bed, just aft of wheel well, not on bumper. He basically needs a new complete kit (which is less expensive than purchasing each of the 7 missing parts he needs).
Install....Drill 14 holes.... 4 holes each side for front outer bed brackets; 1 hole each side for bumper brackets; and 2 holes through bed floor and bed floor cross members (not frame) for each of the two L brackets.
COST: $300.
Brophy with chain turnbuckles (stainless HJ rods will not work):
Install: Simple and no holes are drilled. They attach to upper bed rail and slide along top rail for adjustment to camper connection. They use a short sections of chain an open barrel turnbuckles.
COST: $320
TL:
Direct to frame install for all 4 toe downs.
Install: Drill 12 frame holes (front is 2 each side; and rear 4 each side into side plate of hitch)
COST: $800
My buddy is trying to decide between the Brophy style (for its simplicity) and the Torklift.
Thoughts between these two?
NOTE: Camper is 2800# Dry
Thanks!
Depends on if he wants to trust his camper and truck hanging off the top corners of the bed or down to the frame. 2800#, Torklift for me, pay once cry once and be good to go
Curious....when the different systems front and rear?
Glad you asked. I started out ordering Torklift all around. Went to put the rear ones on and no way. so I called Torklift Tech Support (which I think is a joke) and the person I talked to asked for pictures which I sent. He called back and said I had to move the gas tank. I said that was nuts and he said he didn't know what else to recommend That peed me off mightily so I boxed it up, ate the shipping charge, and sent them back. As it turned out I later discovered that what I got was mislabeled. However, installing Happijac is fast and easy and no problem blocking the gas filler door so in the end it was a win for us. I kept the rear because I did not want to drill my aftermarket bumper. However, if I had it to do over again I would probably fab my own and use use square steel tubing. A second time when I ordered upper stableloads I had a similar experince with Torklift Tech Support, but was less diplomatic. In the end, I think Torklift is overpriced given so much of what they sell is so simple to fab in the garage. Just my editiorilizing there.
Glad you asked. I started out ordering Torklift all around. Went to put the rear ones on and no way. so I called Torklift Tech Support (which I think is a joke) and the person I talked to asked for pictures which I sent. He called back and said I had to move the gas tank. I said that was nuts and he said he didn't know what else to recommend That peed me off mightily so I boxed it up, ate the shipping charge, and sent them back. As it turned out I later discovered that what I got was mislabeled. However, installing Happijac is fast and easy and no problem blocking the gas filler door so in the end it was a win for us. I kept the rear because I did not want to drill my aftermarket bumper. However, if I had it to do over again I would probably fab my own and use use square steel tubing. A second time when I ordered upper stableloads I had a similar experince with Torklift Tech Support, but was less diplomatic. In the end, I think Torklift is overpriced given so much of what they sell is so simple to fab in the garage. Just my editiorilizing there.
I called TL this week and their tech support was weak.
What issue did you have with HJ and blocking the fuel filler door?
Well after reading through all the responses here, other sites, and a few others I know with campers, my buddy decided on going with the HJ system front and rear.
He liked the simple install, it's been around for decades on OBS and other trucks, it's a proven product, has fair price for what you get, and the rubber guide blocks on front stabilizer bar. Plus, he already has the HJ turnbuckles that were included when he purchased the camper.
We'll install as soon as it cools down around here.
Currently, there is a fire near us. It's all about safety and preparing to evacuate should the word come down.
Thanks to all who posted, included pics, and assisted. Your assistance helped him with the decision.
Yep, I removed the AC unit because the camper is exclusively used for deer hunting during cold months. Losing that "high weight" also reduced sway + more headroom inside. Those pics are three different states, Virginia, Maryland, and northern Maine. She has some miles on her!
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