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Aloha all! Where I live is a bit slim on diesel mechanics/heavy duty truck mechanics (they mostly stick to newer trucks and commercial applications) and I need to replace my king pins. Has anyone taken on this task and have any advice? I have read a few threads about their removal and installation, I have a fair amount of tools and help from knowledgeable people available, but wanted to know if anyone else had information on this process as it feels like a big undertaking and I don't want my truck to be down for a long time, I need it for work.
I can definitely document my process too for anyone taking this on in the future.
telling us what you are working on helps.
i did many kingpins on the D-60, and the only real issue was removing and retorquing the top stud.
if you are talking 2 wheel drive vehicle, the hardest part is pressing the old pin out, or welding the axle if the pin tube is
enlarged from running way too long with bad bushings.
I had a shop rebuild the whole front end on my 86 F-250.
All the Bushings, Springs and King Pins..
Russ said the hardest part was finding someone with the tool to do the reaming
or sizing the KP to the new Bushings.
Seems not many shops have the tools any more since not too many King Pin
front end still on the road.
Maybe a big truck shop may have the tools?
When I did the King Pins on my 67 1 1/2 ton International probably 40 yrs ago,
the KP`s just fell out when I removed the side bolts.
I think most people forget to give the parts a shot of grease once in a while.
When I was working, I usually gave the dump truck I drove a shot of grease
during the winter rains etc... amazing the water that came out with the grease
being pumped in. That water and grit/salt does a # on the brass bushings.
telling us what you are working on helps.
i did many kingpins on the D-60, and the only real issue was removing and retorquing the top stud.
if you are talking 2 wheel drive vehicle, the hardest part is pressing the old pin out, or welding the axle if the pin tube is
enlarged from running way too long with bad bushings.
im sorry, I forgot that I didnt have a sig on here, the truck is a 1984 F250 2wd. I’ve heard similar that it’s a beast to get the old ones out. Truck was not mine for a long time, I imagine they are pretty beat up. Plus I live in jungle and beach weather in Hawaii so it’s rather harsh elements.
Following up on my old post. New friend has the space, tools and mechanic skills to help with this project. Spoke to some other mechanics and they were concerned about the I-beam axle being worn out due to driving with bad king pins - are the i-beam axles a part that can be ordered? I am on Maui in Hawaii so it will be hard to source and no scrap yards to pull from
with large trucks when the axle beam gets wallowed out from bad kingpins, we weld the pin hole smaller, than bore it to proper dimensions to accept the new pin and bushings.
There are sources for new I-beams as those are often what is replaced when people drop or lift 2WD (I believe you can by stock too) I doubt they will be cheap, especially shipped to Hawaii though, so you may be better off trying what Tom recommended. I am assuming an 84 is the same as a 93 and they have regular press in ball joints. I just did this job on my truck and with a ball joint press and impact it was a piece of cake. I didn't have any axle issues though. I will post more about it in my thread, but Moog changed the design on there ball joints, so be careful greasing them. None of mine could properly relieve pressure when installed due to the design change.
I have a set of 2wd i-beams off my '88 when I swapped in a D60. Not sure if they are balljoint or kingpin at that year, but can check. Also not sure if a balljoint i-beam would be a direct swap into the frame. They have the complete knuckles and hubs, and springs etc.. so if they bolt up in the right place it might be a direct swap...
However I'm in Massachusetts and no clue what that would be to ship to you, probably have to be a pallet and cost a good bit, but an option for you (especially if a ball joint setup would be better going forward)
with large trucks when the axle beam gets wallowed out from bad kingpins, we weld the pin hole smaller, than bore it to proper dimensions to accept the new pin and bushings.
thank you for this, I had heard about this strategy but nice to be confirmed.
Finally found someone who can help with the king pins, the set I had sat for a while and got surface rusty (I’m on Maui so the humidity is unavoidable here). I cleaned off the surface rust with some WD-40 and a wire brush. When I attempt to lightly tap the collar (not sure it’s actual name) on to the king pin, I notice it starts to open up at the seam (see attached photo) is this normal or will I need to ream out the collar?