The brake booster can be replaced without disrupting the master cylinder, right? In other words, I won’t need to bleed the brakes after replacing the brake booster, right?

 

There is usually is enough space to slightly bend the brake lines out to get the master cylinder off of the studs in the booster and hang there.

 

Thank you. That’s what I thought.

 

Just make sure the rod between the master cylinder and the booster, stays in the booster. They will probably have a warning on the rebuilt booster to not pull it out.

 

With the change of booster you may also need to adjust the pushrod length.

I think the Chiltons/Haynes manuals specify around .995" of stick-out, or something like that.
But when I replaced both my booster & master cylinder a while ago, that measurement did not work & left the pushrod with some preload on it.

This situation can mean that the brakes drag & overheat.....there needs to be very slight clearance to ensure the master cylinder piston can fully return.

Here's a good video explaining the adjustment from around 31:50.........

 

On my new booster that rod adjustment was left loose and if I did not find that I think over time it would have loosen up.
Dave ----

 

Also be sure to check for any wetness or signs of leaks from the master cylinder. If it's leaving out the end of the bore it'll kill the diaphragm in the new booster. Easy to change just the booster though. I did mine a few months ago. I recommend painting the new booster if it is not already, keeps it from turning into an ugly ball or rust right away.