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Aloha all, trying to get my truck simple and reliable - that's my biggest goal right now. One cluster**** currently is the wiring. The truck runs as is, but I do not like that there are unnecessary wires and components all around. I do not use several systems like heating/A/C or cruise control and would like to remove all those electronics and components along with reorganizing and simplifying my wiring (as you can see from the image below)
1. Does any one have a good source for a wiring diagram for my 84 f250? Vacuum diagram would be great too.
2. Does anyone see any problems with me removing A/C components (the pump has already been removed) and cruise control items (coffee can, vacuum sphere, as long as I cap any open lines)
3. Are there any other systems I could remove? Inside the vehicle I just need my gauges and my stereo.
Mahalo for any help can provide
Edit: to protect my ego I will add that I di not do any of the wiring in this photo outside of the new positive battery cable and the blue cable running to my stereo amp.
I feel ya on the desire to do away with "unnecessary" wiring- that's why I own an IDI in the first place. Only thing I can think of other than what you mentioned is the dome light- everything else is either used to run the truck, or required by law if you drive on the highway. I guess if for some reason you wanna get really radical, you could do away with all the warning light sensors and their associated wiring, then either use mechanical gauges or just fly blind and hope for the best.
So since it came up, here's something else to look into- the Stanadyne DB2 pump our engines use, is* widely installed on everything from tractors to gensets to water pumps. For certain applications, Stanadyne makes three versions of the fuel shutoff system: ours, which requires constant B+ for the engine tor run, another that uses a cable over-ride for the solenoid, and another with no solenoid at all. Something I always thought would be cool is to adapt one of these other top covers to our engine so it could be run with the battery removed altogether. I'd imagine there's a way to put the right guts in with all the "creature comfort" doohickeys ours have (like the cold advance), but I never got as far as looking up actual part numbers. I mention all this since it seems like a wonky project you might be into.
*Yes, "IS", not "WAS". I know of at least one machine available brand-new that uses it; although, due to emissions laws, since 2012 it's only been sold outside the USA.