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I decided to do my own brakes and got the life of me can’t get the rear rotors off. I was told that it was parking brake and to remove a rubber grommet on the back plate and but a screw driver in to relieve the pressure. Needless to say I could not get it so I reassembled without the pads because they were smoked is it safe to drive the mile to my local brake shop with out pads or should I give it another go.
I decided to do my own brakes and got the life of me can’t get the rear rotors off. I was told that it was parking brake and to remove a rubber grommet on the back plate and but a screw driver in to relieve the pressure. Needless to say I could not get it so I reassembled without the pads because they were smoked is it safe to drive the mile to my local brake shop with out pads or should I give it another go.
It can be driven without functional parking brakes. Just don't park such that you need it. While at the parts store get yourself a brake adjusting tool. And look at the adjusters while you have it apart to understand how they need to be turned to properly adjust them...which you'll need to do after reassembly. Watch a YouTube video or 2.
If the pads that you're referring to are the service brake pads, and not the e-brake shoes, do not drive the truck without them being installed. If the pads wore to the point that the rotor is damaged, there's little to hurt by reinstalling them in order to make a parts run...outside of the issue that braking performance will be diminished.
I decided to do my own brakes and got the life of me can’t get the rear rotors off. I was told that it was parking brake and to remove a rubber grommet on the back plate and but a screw driver in to relieve the pressure. Needless to say I could not get it so I reassembled without the pads because they were smoked is it safe to drive the mile to my local brake shop with out pads or should I give it another go.
Put the old pads back in and drive it. DO NOT drive at all without service brake pads. The pistons may come in contact with the rotors or come completely out and dump your brake fluid. Neither is a good situation to have.
I decided to do my own brakes and got the life of me can’t get the rear rotors off. I was told that it was parking brake and to remove a rubber grommet on the back plate and but a screw driver in to relieve the pressure. Needless to say I could not get it so I reassembled without the pads because they were smoked is it safe to drive the mile to my local brake shop with out pads or should I give it another go.
ABSOLUTELY DO NOT DRIVE IT WITHOUT BRAKE PADS IN THE CALIPERS!!!
As to getting the rotors off, they are probably frozen with rust to the axle flange, going to take a large persuader to get them loose.
As to the e-brake shoes not letting the rotor come off, do you use the e-brake often?
If not, then that is probably not a factor in getting the rotors off.
I did have the parking brake on when I was lifting it would that have caused this to happen. And I did use a 5lb hammer and lots of liquid wrench gonna try again tomorrow.
Put the old pads back in and drive it. DO NOT drive at all without service brake pads. The pistons may come in contact with the rotors or come completely out and dump your brake fluid. Neither is a good situation to have.
The OP's issue is with his parking/emergency brake, not the service brakes, There is no piston, or any fluid operated item, associated with the parking brake. This is a cable operated pair of brake shoes, located within a drum that's inside the rear rotor. There is no danger of anything happening if the truck is driven w/o e-brake pads so long as the e-brake pedal is not pushed.
Edit: My bad...must have been skimming again. I see that apparently it is the service brake pads that he wanted to drive w/o, and not just the e-brake shoes. That would be a major no-no.
I did have the parking brake on when I was lifting it would that have caused this to happen. And I did use a 5lb hammer and lots of liquid wrench gonna try again tomorrow.
Oh, heck yeah, if the e-brake was engaged when you were trying to get the rotor off, then you'll be SOL, it'll never come off that way.
Also, each time you engage the e-brake, it self adjusts, so if you use it often they can be adjusted up very tight, then you may have to get in there and loosen up the adjuster wheel.
As others have said absolutely do not drive without pads.
try harder with the screw driver. It’s like many drums breaks. You’re backing off an adjustment that looks like a rolling horse spur. Watch some more YouTube videos of parking break adjustment to see.
also, just beat the living crap out of the rotors. They’ll come off.
here’s what you’re hitting with the screwdriver. The levering motion is easy to do once you can visualize the part you’re spinning.
Remove the brake assembly from the axle and rotor. Get a set of bolts and nuts and washers and use the bolts to force the rotor off. Do this by passing them through the 2 axle bracket holes and putting the washers and the nuts between the the bracket and the back of the rotor. Start ratcheting the bolts so they push on the back of the rotor. I crank them until the rotor pops off which can be sketchy with the amount of force it will come off with. If you want to be safe you crank -rotate the rotor and crank -rotate and work it around and off slowly. If you are saving the rotors don't let the end of the bolt press in the back of the rotor directly it will mar them. Use a nut or a piece of wood between them. Hope I explained it right...
As others have said absolutely do not drive without pads.
try harder with the screw driver. It’s like many drums breaks. You’re backing off an adjustment that looks like a rolling horse spur. Watch some more YouTube videos of parking break adjustment to see.
also, just beat the living crap out of the rotors. They’ll come off.
here’s what you’re hitting with the screwdriver. The levering motion is easy to do once you can visualize the part you’re spinning.
do I click up or down to relive the pressure i figured this was the issue.
Is the rotor broke loose from the axle yet? If not it’s not the parking brake assy holding it on.
once you have the rotor loose it will move a half inch or so against the springs and pad assy before
stopping you.
Just did mine last month it took a 10 lb sledgehammer with a long handle to knock it loose, I ruined the rotor before it come loose.
If you are using the bolt thru method, apply about 25lbs of torque to the bolts and take your 5lbs sledge ant work around the outer edge of the rotor until it pops loose, repeat has necessary. Your wheel backing mates to that portion of the rotor, you do not want to warp that.
I did have the parking brake on when I was lifting it would that have caused this to happen. And I did use a 5lb hammer and lots of liquid wrench gonna try again tomorrow.
The parking brake has to be OFF before you remove the rotors. Use wheel chocks on the front tires. If your parking brake is applied, you will never get the rotors off.
Originally Posted by killjoykarl;[url=tel:20490197
20490197[/url]]I decided to do my own brakes and got the life of me can’t get the rear rotors off. I was told that it was parking brake and to remove a rubber grommet on the back plate and but a screw driver in to relieve the pressure. Needless to say I could not get it so I reassembled without the pads because they were smoked is it safe to drive the mile to my local brake shop with out pads or should I give it another go.
I don’t mean to be rude but based on your comments in this thread, you may not be ready to do this kind of work on your truck. Brakes protect you and everyone else on the road. Consider getting a professional to do this for you.
do I click up or down to relive the pressure i figured this was the issue.
my recollection is on the driver side work it up on the passenger side work it down. The bolt is a normal threading so your goal is to tighten the thread, closing the brake shoes.
