Andersen Hitch
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 19,726
Likes: 12,873
From: Wyoming
I'm not an engineer but my understanding is that all of the sway is in how the ball rotates or doesn't rotate on the coupler. The chains are there to transfer weight to the front axle and also to put force on the ball to lock it to the coupler.
Tuned
Joined: Mar 2019
Posts: 256
Likes: 253
From: Auburn, WA
The other aspect to this is the tongue weight which applies downward pressure on the ball which further engages the friction material liner. Part of the aversion to greasing the ball is to avoid grease working its way down between the tapered ball and the friction liner which would obviously negate its effectiveness. I believe there was a minimum tongue weight requirement in the manual for the original version of the hitch that I used in order to ensure sufficient friction for good sway control - not sure about the new model. The removable dust cover around the neck of the ball to help reduce the potential for contamination getting into the friction liner was a nice addition. You will know it when that friction material is compromised and no longer works properly. Had that happen due to a manufacturing defect on the original friction liner that ended up causing the ball to seize up and barely rotate. What a horrible racket that made when trying to turn - but probably wouldn't have swayed in a hurricane.....
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 19,726
Likes: 12,873
From: Wyoming
I never thought of the retainer ring as a dust cover. I thought it was there to keep the friction material from sliding up. My original ball mount - which did not have a retainer ring - had that happen and the replacement ball mount has the retainer ring so there's no way the friction material can slide up. I suppose that before too long I should remove the retainer ring and check the status of the friction material.
Tuned
Joined: Mar 2019
Posts: 256
Likes: 253
From: Auburn, WA
I believe you are correct regarding it preventing the friction material from working its way up. My tongue weight was quite light at ~450 and I never had that particular issue. I do think that it acts as as a seal in some fashion, but its not watertight or dustproof. I wish that the new style had of worked for me on the ORV but for some reason it just wasn't returning enough weight to the steer axle on my current combination. I really liked the simplicity of the hitch and I do miss it every time I'm lugging the Blue Ox out to the truck.....
Moderator
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 6,515
Likes: 671
From: Sioux Falls Area
For those of you who have used them, how easy is it to change the height of the ball mount?
i have two tow vehicles with drastically different hitch heights. One needs a 2” drop and the other 4”. I was thinking about this one to help with the horse trailer and the car trailer, particularly with the half ton. Not that sway is an issue with either, but when full both of them really put a lot of tongue weight on the hitch. I don’t need full weight transfer, as they tow fine for me, but would like it to take some weight off the rear axle on the half ton.
for the 3/4 ton, my wife doesn’t like the feel of the new horse trailer. It’s taller than the old one and she says she feels like she is driving a sail boat. Personally, I don’t have a problem with it, but I Thought the anti sway would help her out. Weight transfer is a non issue on the 3/4 ton IMO, just trying to make it more stable feeling for her.
i don’t want to have to buy two hitches to switch height. The rest I can switch back and forth from trailer to trailer easy enough or just by an extra set of chains. But buying two heads is kind of a deal breaker.
i have two tow vehicles with drastically different hitch heights. One needs a 2” drop and the other 4”. I was thinking about this one to help with the horse trailer and the car trailer, particularly with the half ton. Not that sway is an issue with either, but when full both of them really put a lot of tongue weight on the hitch. I don’t need full weight transfer, as they tow fine for me, but would like it to take some weight off the rear axle on the half ton.
for the 3/4 ton, my wife doesn’t like the feel of the new horse trailer. It’s taller than the old one and she says she feels like she is driving a sail boat. Personally, I don’t have a problem with it, but I Thought the anti sway would help her out. Weight transfer is a non issue on the 3/4 ton IMO, just trying to make it more stable feeling for her.
i don’t want to have to buy two hitches to switch height. The rest I can switch back and forth from trailer to trailer easy enough or just by an extra set of chains. But buying two heads is kind of a deal breaker.
Tuned
Joined: Mar 2019
Posts: 256
Likes: 253
From: Auburn, WA
There are 2 - 3/4" x 2 1/2" bolts that hold the ball housing in place. They are torqued to 150 ft-lbs. You'd want to measure both TV to see if the 4" drop/rise would work on both. There is an 8" drop/rise if needed.
Edit: Probably just an extra set of tongue brackets unless there is significant difference between the tongues on both trailers that would require different chain lengths. Then you may want to consider two sets of chains.
Edit: Probably just an extra set of tongue brackets unless there is significant difference between the tongues on both trailers that would require different chain lengths. Then you may want to consider two sets of chains.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Dec 2016
Posts: 781
Likes: 188
From: Knightstown Indiana
The Anderson does not work utilizing friction between the ball and the coupler. The chains serve two purposes, to transfer weight forward, and then to keep the coupler from pivoting on the ball. This then allows the pivot to be in the WDH head utilizing the friction material. The friction material is a cone shape, which keeps it from being driven out of the assembly as the hitch pivots.
I keep grease on the ball, you do not want metal to metal contact in the coupler.
I’ve been running my hitch for 6 years or so on two TT’s. At the beginning they sent me a new friction cone to deal with squeak, but since then it has been trouble free. I will say though, I use it more for sway control than for distribution, my tongue weights are relatively light.
I keep grease on the ball, you do not want metal to metal contact in the coupler.
I’ve been running my hitch for 6 years or so on two TT’s. At the beginning they sent me a new friction cone to deal with squeak, but since then it has been trouble free. I will say though, I use it more for sway control than for distribution, my tongue weights are relatively light.
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 19,726
Likes: 12,873
From: Wyoming
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Dec 2016
Posts: 781
Likes: 188
From: Knightstown Indiana
This is a categorically false statement. The sway is arrested in the friction lined connection of the special ball to its mount, not in the trailer connection to the ball. The trailer is locked to the ball as already pointed out. Grease, although not required will not hurt.
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 19,726
Likes: 12,873
From: Wyoming
This is a categorically false statement. The sway is arrested in the friction lined connection of the special ball to its mount, not in the trailer connection to the ball. The trailer is locked to the ball as already pointed out. Grease, although not required will not hurt.
Moderator
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 12,064
Likes: 1,573
From: Media PA
Having never used one, that’s what I thought. But I’m confused by the OP’s pictures showing the ball wear but where is the chain plate in those pictures? Does it go on/off easily?
Laughing Gas
Joined: Dec 2016
Posts: 781
Likes: 188
From: Knightstown Indiana
I’ll try and take a picture and post it. The chain bracket is easily removed from the bottom of the hitch. Although the chains keep the trailer from pivoting as the truck and trailer turn, the trailer does still pivot slightly on the ball as the vehicles go up/down over roadway approaches, or over humps or ridges in drives etc. That is what I see as it’s biggest limitation. The road to my home crosses a couple of small creek bridges and there is a hill that puts the combination in different ‘planes’. As the nose of the truck climbs, the chain tension gets excessive tight, at the top of this hill as the truck crests the chains go slack. There is obviously movement, the rig is not turning, it is aligned along the same center line, but the trailer does pivot in that lateral axis on the ball.
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 19,726
Likes: 12,873
From: Wyoming
Normally, that's true. When I switched from the old style ball mount to the new style (with the retainer ring) I had to transfer the chain plate to the new ball mount. The pin was stuck good. It took a bit of encouragement to get it out. I replaced the pin instead of putting it back in the new ball mount.